Crank/ignition help
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2024
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Crank/ignition help
Hey all,
I could use some feedback from mechanics on here or people who maybe had the same issue. I have a ‘19 F150 XLT 3.5L with 101,000 miles. Two weeks ago, first time I had a hard ignition during remote starting for this truck. It took twice the crank time and then a check engine light. Took to dealer who stated it needed a new high pressure fuel pump. $1400 later they replaced that and I got truck back. Two days later same crank issue but no CELs. Very inconsistent as it doesn’t do it every time and it doesn’t matter if it was a remote start or with the key. I checked the battery voltage and all was good there. This issue happened two days last week and again yesterday this time with another (the same) CEL. It’s now back at the dealer but the tech can’t figure out what the issue is as if yet because it started up fine when they moved it into the garage today (again this doesn’t happen every time) so it’s difficult to replicate. I have a video of the start problem attached for you all that I also shared with them. Any ideas of what the issue could be would be helpful!
I could use some feedback from mechanics on here or people who maybe had the same issue. I have a ‘19 F150 XLT 3.5L with 101,000 miles. Two weeks ago, first time I had a hard ignition during remote starting for this truck. It took twice the crank time and then a check engine light. Took to dealer who stated it needed a new high pressure fuel pump. $1400 later they replaced that and I got truck back. Two days later same crank issue but no CELs. Very inconsistent as it doesn’t do it every time and it doesn’t matter if it was a remote start or with the key. I checked the battery voltage and all was good there. This issue happened two days last week and again yesterday this time with another (the same) CEL. It’s now back at the dealer but the tech can’t figure out what the issue is as if yet because it started up fine when they moved it into the garage today (again this doesn’t happen every time) so it’s difficult to replicate. I have a video of the start problem attached for you all that I also shared with them. Any ideas of what the issue could be would be helpful!
Old school
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 154
Likes: 55
From: PA
J3AT44,
If you are on your original battery of 5 yrs/100.000 mi, you got lucky. It is old and in my opinion, I would change it before the extended cranks do it in. Good voltage under no-load (at rest) isn't the same as voltage during crank. Measure at the batt terminals while cranking; if batt voltage goes below 10 vdc, it could cause the time-out you're experiencing. If this is a fairly new batt, many other things can cause a time-out too, but you'll have to scan for them,
45K40
If you are on your original battery of 5 yrs/100.000 mi, you got lucky. It is old and in my opinion, I would change it before the extended cranks do it in. Good voltage under no-load (at rest) isn't the same as voltage during crank. Measure at the batt terminals while cranking; if batt voltage goes below 10 vdc, it could cause the time-out you're experiencing. If this is a fairly new batt, many other things can cause a time-out too, but you'll have to scan for them,
45K40
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
J3AT44,
If you are on your original battery of 5 yrs/100.000 mi, you got lucky. It is old and in my opinion, I would change it before the extended cranks do it in. Good voltage under no-load (at rest) isn't the same as voltage during crank. Measure at the batt terminals while cranking; if batt voltage goes below 10 vdc, it could cause the time-out you're experiencing. If this is a fairly new batt, many other things can cause a time-out too, but you'll have to scan for them,
45K40
If you are on your original battery of 5 yrs/100.000 mi, you got lucky. It is old and in my opinion, I would change it before the extended cranks do it in. Good voltage under no-load (at rest) isn't the same as voltage during crank. Measure at the batt terminals while cranking; if batt voltage goes below 10 vdc, it could cause the time-out you're experiencing. If this is a fairly new batt, many other things can cause a time-out too, but you'll have to scan for them,
45K40
Old school
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 154
Likes: 55
From: PA
Seems that these newer trucks eat more batts every year. My 2020 ate 2 in 4 yrs despite my efforts to keep a trickle charger on it as well as a full-time 7w solar panel and driving round trip 52 miles for work. After a winter and a half, I noticed occasional long and laggy cranks (measured ~9.8-10.2vdc); a warning sign. Analyzer showed 70-80% state of charge. Charge on 2Ahr rate for 6-8 hrs and shows 100%. 3 days later 80%. Replaced batt with new AGM and see it charge @ 14.3vdc, and drop to 12.6vdc ~2 hrs after disconnecting charger. Not bad, but after a year voltage at rest starts dropping .1 vdc a month. This might be the last winter for it,
45K40
45K40
Thread Starter
Junior Member
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Would the battery only show a drop in voltage if I'm fortunate enough to test it during one of those longer cranks and measure normal during a normal crank startup? Just trying to get a hand on if it's truly the battery or not. I'll probably replace it no matter what but I'm getting sick of going to the dealer (2x in two weeks so far) when I have that weird crank and then CEL come on.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
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Update
Technician at dealer told me the CEL code pulled was DTC POOC6 which means we have low fuel pressure on cylinder # 1. Everything has checked out so far so they are still trying to figure it out since we already replaced the high fuel pressure pump
5 Year Member
Joined: Feb 2020
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https://obd2-codes.co/codes/p00c6-ford/