I am going to try to break this down in steps!

Year:
1986 (Rare! Most '86 trucks were switched to fuel injected!)
Model:
F150 Lariat
Engine:
351W 5.8 4bbl Holley Factory (8cyl. for the slow ones...)
Electrical Accessories:
Power windows and power locks

Problems will be listed in which they started with diagnosed quick fixes. I will put the parts that I replaced in order afterwards. I am not a mechanic. So I am trying to learn how to diagnose and save money. Have heard a few things but would like to hear new/correct ways to diagnose.

1)Got in the truck turned over and nothing. - Just bridged the gap from soleniod.

2)Radio would cut on and off when sudden movements at steering wheel or hard bumps. Passenger window was sluggish also (would not work on passenger switch and sometimes from my side as well) - Tried grounding at frame helped a little. Then went back to crazy. For the window I replaced switch when a shop told me they couldn't order a switch. I went to lmctrucks and ordered one. It started to work for awhile. Then realized connector plastic was broke. A little tape fixed that right up. Still have sluggish operation from time to time.

3)Gauges started to quit working with dash lights going out with it. - Found that if you hold the key into the on position while driving at the same time it would work again.

With #1-3 going on I decided to take action! Replaced Lock Cylinder - everything started to work a little better but still had same issues. Replaced ignition switch - Started to work a lot better but radio would still go in and out with hard bumps and slight turn of steering wheel/moving shifter.

4)Battery started to leak acid. - Replaced battery and put new terminal post connectors with new posi wire to solenoid.

After #4 I put a new solenoid (I removed new solenoid when I bridged gap. Don't want to ruin a new one.) and ignition module. I drove to oreilly's and stopped at a red light to make a turn. While I was stopped it died. Bridged the gap and it continued to roll. I had to keep for on gas at red lights to keep it running. Went home and adjusted carb worked for a while then quit running. Be totally honest with ya I don't think the carb is bad. Fuel screen was clear and was getting decent amount of fuel. Today I drove since it has been sitting and I have a short term disability that has kept under for awhile. I have not been able to diagnose anything due to medical complications for quite sometime. I am a hands on kind of guy. It's the only way I will learn. I decided to let it run and while running (still having to bridge solenoid to start) the radio would not come on. Sometimes on hot days it would work fine w/ no humidity or precip of course. This time I pulled the light switch and all running lights work except tag lights. Reverse lights don't work due to burnt housings. When I turned the switch on it bogged down to a dying position. I immediately hit the gas to save it. When I returned home I pushed the brake and noticed the right turn signal light dash indicator would stay on(the left one does not work) when I released the brake it when back to normal operation.

What I want to do if no one has a simple solution is to know what models will match my truck electrically to buy a whole truck to part-out because I know this is a owners worst nightmare. Mostly because my skills with parts are limited and a semi-junk truck would save my life because I can dissect it. Possibly learn the right way without messing my truck up.

Thank you all for your patience and help!

~Gunny~