I want to flush my brake fluid in a few weeks. What fluid do you guys recommend because I have never done this? I am partial to synthetic fluids and oils, does Royal Purple or Mobile 1 make brake fluid? If not, what do you guys use?

Thanks!

 

I use Valvoline Syn Pwr full synthetic, but any major brand DOT4 will work well. Standard DOT3 fluids are perfectly serviceable as well....it's always a good idea to purge the whole brake system every 2-3 years no matter what fluid and grade is used....usually not required if DOT5 Silicon fluid is used.

 

Yep. I agree. You can find directions for how to do this, but generally, you'll want to start with a full reservoir and bleed the brake caliper (or wheel cylinder if you have drums) that is farthest from the reservoir - typically the right rear. If you have a helper, leave the engine off and have the other person press and hold the brake pedal as you open the bleeder valve at the caliper / wheel cylinder and capture the old fluid with large jug or bottle and some small clear tubing or old vacuum line theat fits snuggly on bleeder as it is drained. Close the bleeder valve as the stream becomes a trickle. Once the valve is closed, have your helper slowly release the brake pedal back up from the floor. Have him press and hold the pedal as you again open the bleeder valve to repeat the process. Keep a check on fluid level in the reservoir and repeat steps until new, clear fluid is all that you get from the bleeder valve. Then move to the next closer wheel - driver's side rear - and repeat the process. Then the right front, and finally the driver's side front. DON'T let the reservoir ever get low and suck air into the line because when you apply the brakes, the air bubble will compress and the fluid won't force the brake pads against the rotors / shoes against the drums.
This is how I've done older systems,
Good luck.

 

Green I appriciate the addvice, but I think I may have a simpler way to do this. I saw an episode of "Trucks" where they used this on a silverado. But they make fittings and kits for many makes and models including our trucks. I do not yet have one, but plan on getting one for this job.

Visit http://www.motiveproducts.com/

 

I saw the same show but thought it might be cost prohibitive for the do-it-yourselfer with one or two cars to do every few years. If you get it, please let me know how you like it.

 

I use this vacuum bleeder form Harbor Freight, works great. right price! Do it with one person. I find it on sale quite a lot for $19.00

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92474

Before I start a fluid flush, I remove the old fluid in the resevoir, then refill it with fresh fluid before starting the flush.

 

At that price, it's worth getting one. And you made a good point about starting with a reservoir full of fresh fluid...I neglected to mention that. Thanks.

 

...or you might use the scheme I use: 20 feet of 1/8th" ID Tygon clear tubing. A 1qt tin can. A spring clothespin. A neoprene adapter between one end of the tubing and the bleed port.

(1) Fill the reservoir with new fluid, but leave the cover off; open a bleed port about two turns and connect the tubing to the port with the adapter.
(2) Run the tubing around the truck so that it can be seen from the driver's seat.
(3)Clip the end of the tubing to the 1qt can with the clothespin so that the tube end dumps into the can.
(4)Push the brake pedal down about half way, then begin pumping slowly and gently back and forth about half a full stroke. (Too much pressure might cause the tubing to pop off the port fitting or cause the differential safety valve to get displaced.)
The fluid will be pumped out of the cylinder, down the tubing and into the can.

When the old fluid is pumped out the tubing will show the clear, new fluid....be sure to keep the reservoir topped off while the operation is going on.

(5)Once all is clear and no bubbles appear in the tube, close the port and go to the next one.

The advantages to this scheme are: one man, cheap, no vacuum that can pull air into the system.

BTW/FYI: Start with the cylinder nearest the reservoir and work out....think about it.

 

Your welcome, I could tell by your detailed directions of the bleed sequence that you already knew this and left it out. Just wanted to add my 10 cents(inflation..lol)