4r70w rebuild issues
08-20-2017, 10:39 AM
#1
4r70w rebuild issues
Hey folks.
Just got done rebuilding my 4r70w transmission. Used the rebuild kit along with the SureCure kit from TransmissionBench.com. Followed the tutorial videos to the T, piece by piece. Not a single doubt whatsoever in my mind that i put it together as correctly as is humanly possible.
Went to drive it. Reverse works GREAT! Solid. Put it into first and it seems to be starting off in third gear. High rev, slow movement. But when I get to the 3rd gear speed, (around 30-35), it moves great! Cant tell if overdrive is or isnt working. But I know theres an issue with it not going back down to first when I come to a stop.
Then I pulled up to a light, and when it turned green for me to take off, I gave it some gas under the impression it was starting out in third, and it hard shifted back into first and the tires grabbed, burnt tires for a second. After that it was starting off in 3rd for the rest of my time driving.
No check engine codes though the light is on, all it returned was EGR Valve Insufficient (even though Ive literally replaced every single component in the egr system, at this point I just ignore that). But no transmission codes. Was hoping a sensor wasnt plugged in all the way or something simple.
Am leaning towards an issue in the valve body, but where? Anyone with expertise on the 4r70w would be appreciated. This is the first one Ive rebuilt, but again, the internals I have no doubt whatsoever in my mind are correct being they can essentially only go in one way. I did pressure tests along the way using the ports on the pump to make sure the clutch packs compressed. They did. Everything appeared to go back together exactly as it should.
Thanks for any help.
98 Ford F150 4.6L vin W
4r70w transmission
Just got done rebuilding my 4r70w transmission. Used the rebuild kit along with the SureCure kit from TransmissionBench.com. Followed the tutorial videos to the T, piece by piece. Not a single doubt whatsoever in my mind that i put it together as correctly as is humanly possible.
Went to drive it. Reverse works GREAT! Solid. Put it into first and it seems to be starting off in third gear. High rev, slow movement. But when I get to the 3rd gear speed, (around 30-35), it moves great! Cant tell if overdrive is or isnt working. But I know theres an issue with it not going back down to first when I come to a stop.
Then I pulled up to a light, and when it turned green for me to take off, I gave it some gas under the impression it was starting out in third, and it hard shifted back into first and the tires grabbed, burnt tires for a second. After that it was starting off in 3rd for the rest of my time driving.
No check engine codes though the light is on, all it returned was EGR Valve Insufficient (even though Ive literally replaced every single component in the egr system, at this point I just ignore that). But no transmission codes. Was hoping a sensor wasnt plugged in all the way or something simple.
Am leaning towards an issue in the valve body, but where? Anyone with expertise on the 4r70w would be appreciated. This is the first one Ive rebuilt, but again, the internals I have no doubt whatsoever in my mind are correct being they can essentially only go in one way. I did pressure tests along the way using the ports on the pump to make sure the clutch packs compressed. They did. Everything appeared to go back together exactly as it should.
Thanks for any help.
98 Ford F150 4.6L vin W
4r70w transmission
08-20-2017, 03:56 PM
#2
Sounds to me like a valve sticking, common problem if/when the trans is rebuilt it's not done in a clean room.
On your egr code, that's a simple fix, pull the throttle body off the intake manifold and clean all the carbon gunked up in the semi circle port.
.
On your egr code, that's a simple fix, pull the throttle body off the intake manifold and clean all the carbon gunked up in the semi circle port.
.
The following users liked this post:
Spanky666 (08-20-2017)
08-20-2017, 05:21 PM
#3
Thanks man.
I dunno how that could be the case. I took the valve body over to a separate part of my work table and laid out aluminum foil and then paper towels on top of that. Dont believe Ive ever done anything that clean in my life lolol
Nonetheless. I have the pan off, fluid drained, no broken bits in the pan thank God. So Im with you, its either a stuck valve, or a sensor that isnt throwing a code like it should be. Maybe malfunctioned shift solenoid? Its hard to tell these days with all these shi**y Chinese manufactured parts. Its a toss up if it works off the gate...
I dunno how that could be the case. I took the valve body over to a separate part of my work table and laid out aluminum foil and then paper towels on top of that. Dont believe Ive ever done anything that clean in my life lolol
Nonetheless. I have the pan off, fluid drained, no broken bits in the pan thank God. So Im with you, its either a stuck valve, or a sensor that isnt throwing a code like it should be. Maybe malfunctioned shift solenoid? Its hard to tell these days with all these shi**y Chinese manufactured parts. Its a toss up if it works off the gate...
08-20-2017, 11:20 PM
#4
Welp. Took the valve body back to a clean work area in the garage. Checked every single valve with a mechanics pick. Every single one of them moved/flexed and returned to position as they should. Was really hoping to hear some grit or something but it was just as smooth as could be.
Reinstalled it. Ill say when I reinstalled it, I dont know if this is common or not but it seemed like I was meeting a little resistance from the over drive piston? I cant see what the actual resistance is but if I had to guess Id say overdrive because the only other spring loaded piston is the reverse piston and reverse is working flawlessly. Anyways I pushed up on it to start the bolts that mount the valvebody to the transmission and it seemed like it might be depressing the overdrive piston about 1/8" inorder to go flush. Again, not sure if thats common or not.
No electrical codes on Check Engine. No stuck valves. Brand spanking new clutch/steels packs, brand new torque converter, bearings, all new sensors internally except for the TCC sensor (torque convert something). Shift solenoid is new, EPC sensor new. New overdrive piston w o-ring from SureCure kit. New accumulators. The only piston I didnt replace was the reverse which works great, imagine that. Everything thoroughly cleaned. No broken debris.
I have no fkn idea at this point.
I noticed some little test ports on the side of the transmission like F R and something else. Have to take a bolt out to utilize it but I have no idea what they do or how to use them to diagnose.
Reinstalled it. Ill say when I reinstalled it, I dont know if this is common or not but it seemed like I was meeting a little resistance from the over drive piston? I cant see what the actual resistance is but if I had to guess Id say overdrive because the only other spring loaded piston is the reverse piston and reverse is working flawlessly. Anyways I pushed up on it to start the bolts that mount the valvebody to the transmission and it seemed like it might be depressing the overdrive piston about 1/8" inorder to go flush. Again, not sure if thats common or not.
No electrical codes on Check Engine. No stuck valves. Brand spanking new clutch/steels packs, brand new torque converter, bearings, all new sensors internally except for the TCC sensor (torque convert something). Shift solenoid is new, EPC sensor new. New overdrive piston w o-ring from SureCure kit. New accumulators. The only piston I didnt replace was the reverse which works great, imagine that. Everything thoroughly cleaned. No broken debris.
I have no fkn idea at this point.
I noticed some little test ports on the side of the transmission like F R and something else. Have to take a bolt out to utilize it but I have no idea what they do or how to use them to diagnose.
Last edited by Spanky666; 08-20-2017 at 11:22 PM.
08-22-2017, 04:32 PM
#5
Shift solenoid is brand new, and all the fuses are in good shape. I guess its possible the shift solenoid is bunk, but its just not likely.
Lemme ask like this. Is there anything internal that would cause this to happen? If so, what? I tested all the clutch packs during assembly with no issues. Except for the intermediate, just because you cant really test that one (that Im aware of), and even still, 100% certain it could not have been installed differently.
Lemme ask like this. Is there anything internal that would cause this to happen? If so, what? I tested all the clutch packs during assembly with no issues. Except for the intermediate, just because you cant really test that one (that Im aware of), and even still, 100% certain it could not have been installed differently.
08-22-2017, 06:02 PM
#6
Wish I could help but I never had formal training on auto trans. Only manual trans.
.
.
The following users liked this post:
Spanky666 (08-22-2017)
08-22-2017, 09:03 PM
#7
No problem. I dont either to be honest haha. Watched the AODE video series on youtube. They couldnt possibly be more clear on how to rebuild this transmission. Which is why I say, I had all the confidence in the world after cleaning/inspecting/rebuilding this transmission that everything was solid.
Having said that, I just got back from another test drive. Disconnected the battery to maybe reset the computer. Not sure it did anything but I read earlier that the forward clutch pack is engaged for 1,2,3,4 gears. And then the overdrive band and planetary gears take over I suppose.
In 3rd gear, its completely responsive. Lots of torque, no feeling of slipping. Which tells me, not an internal issue, but leaning more towards either an issue with the shift solenoid, or with the valve body somewhere. Then again, Im not expert. The only clutch pack I forgot to test was the direct before I installed the transmission. I tested the forward and reverse though with no air leaks when tested with the air compressor on the pump ports. Im not sure what the direct clutch pack does
Having said that, I just got back from another test drive. Disconnected the battery to maybe reset the computer. Not sure it did anything but I read earlier that the forward clutch pack is engaged for 1,2,3,4 gears. And then the overdrive band and planetary gears take over I suppose.
In 3rd gear, its completely responsive. Lots of torque, no feeling of slipping. Which tells me, not an internal issue, but leaning more towards either an issue with the shift solenoid, or with the valve body somewhere. Then again, Im not expert. The only clutch pack I forgot to test was the direct before I installed the transmission. I tested the forward and reverse though with no air leaks when tested with the air compressor on the pump ports. Im not sure what the direct clutch pack does
Last edited by Spanky666; 08-22-2017 at 09:32 PM.
Trending Topics
08-23-2017, 11:01 PM
#8
Solved.
So I ended up dropping the trans again as much as I hated to do that. Turns out, when I was installing the pump, I must have pinched one of the two teflon sealing rings on the pump from the SureCure kit, even though I thought I had done a very good job tucking them into their respective slots. I guess not, cause the bottom one was torn to pieces.
Not sure how that effects the overdrive band, but I smoked that thing done. Was brand new too. Overdrive band is done, and I think thats the reverse drum it wraps around (??) but that is also done. Cut grooves into it. I stopped there for the night cause Im tired, but wanted to let everyone know, if they have a similar issue, its likely one of the teflon sealing rings got damaged.
So I ended up dropping the trans again as much as I hated to do that. Turns out, when I was installing the pump, I must have pinched one of the two teflon sealing rings on the pump from the SureCure kit, even though I thought I had done a very good job tucking them into their respective slots. I guess not, cause the bottom one was torn to pieces.
Not sure how that effects the overdrive band, but I smoked that thing done. Was brand new too. Overdrive band is done, and I think thats the reverse drum it wraps around (??) but that is also done. Cut grooves into it. I stopped there for the night cause Im tired, but wanted to let everyone know, if they have a similar issue, its likely one of the teflon sealing rings got damaged.
The following users liked this post:
danf1502001 (11-05-2019)
08-25-2017, 09:35 PM
#9
Transmission works great now!!
I ended up replacing the direct clutch drum because apparently the teeth on the inner bore have a tendency to wear out. Scored a used, but like new, reverse drum from a local transmission shop.
But the only seals I messed up were the two large teflon seals that seal against the reverse drum bore. The metal ones work great. Id almost tell ppl dont even bother w the teflon ones unless you can afford to put the whole pump in the freezer overnight after installing the teflon ones (per advice from the trans shop). But w the metal ones, you can install and go. Teflons come w the SureCure kit, metals come w the standard deluxe rebuild kit.
I ended up replacing the direct clutch drum because apparently the teeth on the inner bore have a tendency to wear out. Scored a used, but like new, reverse drum from a local transmission shop.
But the only seals I messed up were the two large teflon seals that seal against the reverse drum bore. The metal ones work great. Id almost tell ppl dont even bother w the teflon ones unless you can afford to put the whole pump in the freezer overnight after installing the teflon ones (per advice from the trans shop). But w the metal ones, you can install and go. Teflons come w the SureCure kit, metals come w the standard deluxe rebuild kit.
Last edited by Spanky666; 08-25-2017 at 10:17 PM.
The following users liked this post:
danf1502001 (11-05-2019)
