Topic Sponsor
Maintenance Shop Keep your Ford F150 truck running strong. Discuss all things maintenance here.

2016 Ford F150 XLT - Hurricane Harvey Insurance Buy Back

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-02-2017, 07:09 PM
  #11  
Senior Member
 
HwyCycle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Staten Island, New York
Posts: 465
Received 54 Likes on 41 Posts

Default

I rebuilt a 2003 Mazda Tribute that was under ocean water during Super Storm Sandy.
(@ 120k miles)
Computer under console
A few harnesses under the dash
Cleaned the seats
Replace the carpet & padding
AC compressor
Starter
Alternator
Wheel bearings
Intermediate shaft
Rotors
Pads
Muffler
Tensioner
Idler pulley
Belt
Rubber brake lines (they all failed after getting it running)
Tires


Currently,
Passenger seat airbag fault
Rear window defroster inoperable
Rear wheel bearings need replacing

Now at 185k miles, still running... just waiting for it to die. Over the years, It needed very little in the way of repairs. Oil changes, brakes & tires
The following users liked this post:
Mr.AlexanderStorey (10-04-2017)
Old 10-04-2017, 01:17 PM
  #12  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Mr.AlexanderStorey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 11
Received 11 Likes on 5 Posts
Default 2016 Ford F150 XLT - Hurricane Harvey Insurance Buy Back

2nd Update:
I've removed every Electronic component from inside the Cab.
Technically I this technic on all electronics. It took me a full night but I got everything pretty clean. however from my initial inspection the following items seemed toast.
Electronics that I plan to replace: (please pardon part naming methodology)
4x4 module
4x4 selector switch
Door (driver/passgnr) window module
Door (driver) window adjustment module
Front (driver/ passngr) Seat adjustment module
Restraint Control Module
Brakes & Trailer assembly module
Radio screen
When I open the ECM it looked dry, All connections looked clean. No signs of damage.
All wire hardness plus looked dry and no signs of corrosion. Cleaned all wire connections with CRC QD Electronic Cleaner & Alcohol. After an 1hr drying process I sprayed CRC Battery Terminal Protector.All Cabin Frames (dash/seats) were rusted. I sanded every metal piece, 1500psi pressure washed metal and sprayed with blk anti rust spray paint.
Seat motors. PB Blast sprayed all gears, let sit and tested with a drill 12v battery. All motors worked without issue.
Window Motors. PB Blast sprayed all gears, let sit and tested with a drill 12v battery. All motors worked without issue.
Found an upholstery shop who wanted to help. He will clean leathers and put the seats back together for me.
Dried all cushions after Pine sol bath. Everything is with Upholstery shop.

Removed All Fluids:
Radiator - No water found
Front/ Rear Differentials - found a lot of water
Motor Oil - Found about 2 gallons of water
Transmission Oil - Very little 1 cup of water.
Transfer case - 1 pint of water
Gas Tank - No water in gas take. I had filled truck with gas night before storm
Brakes - no signs of water will drain and flush once I can get the truck running
I don't think I missed anything....

Removed Alternator/ Starter, Sent to shop to rebuild both items

Removed AC Blower, cleaned out internal air pathway, used degreaser, and Pine Sol. I open all actuators and only one appeared to have water damage "electronics corrosion." My experience with electronic boards offshore was to use a tooth brush and CRC QD Electronic Cleaner. Gently Brush and SPRAY LIKE CRAZY. I also used some rubbing alcohol in areas where residue would not clean up.

Lifted truck to wash underneath
Removed Cab to wash underneath
Cleaned entire frame and engine
Primary cleaner was degreaser. nothing else worked to remove the Gunk (flood water residue) off the truck.

Removed Spark plugs, used hi pressure air to blow out cylinders. some water.
Poor a little transmission fluid into each cylinder cavity. Waited 45 minutes and manually rotated engine. No resistance felt. it turned nice and smooth.
Replace spark plugs with new plugs

After a few days of no fluid, I emptied pans once more of remaining fluids.
Replaced all fluids:
Motor Oil - New filter + OEM oil
Transmission - New filter + OEM oil
Transfer case - + OEM oil
Differentials - Added additive + Oil
Radiator - still empty

Im about ready to start putting truck all back together.

My engine bay fuse box got all wet. I've tried to remove it but its going to be a Major PITA. I am planning to just replace fuses and relays. Does anyone know of simple procedure to remove that terminal box? I figured only thing that could have been damaged and fuses and relays.

Next on list:
Start putting cab back onto frame
Inspect and remove seat belts
Install all door components and window modules/ motors
Install Carpet
Rebuild AC Blower
To be continued
Attached Thumbnails 2016 Ford F150 XLT - Hurricane Harvey Insurance Buy Back-20170926_171643.jpg  
Attached Images          
Old 10-05-2017, 10:43 PM
  #13  
Senior Member
 
andrewdod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Southern New Jersey
Posts: 1,598
Received 497 Likes on 349 Posts
Default

holy crap... one hell of a rebuild here....
The following 2 users liked this post by andrewdod:
chimmike (10-17-2017), Firerunner (10-29-2017)
Old 10-07-2017, 06:40 PM
  #14  
Chief Engineer
 
Unlimited HP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Summerville, SC
Posts: 160
Received 47 Likes on 31 Posts

Default Cleaning the tough stuff...

I don't know if the sea water made it all the way to the bayou but if it did...My experience, electrical cleaner and similar solvents will not remove salt deposits. The best thing to use is distilled water. You might have to soak it more than once but It will soak up the salt and leaves no residue. For gummed up circuit cards, small components like motors, switches and connectors, and anything else that fits, I've used the ultrasonic cleaner from Harbor Frieght filled with rubbing alcohol. It's removed burn marks, grease, and the sludge generally found after disasters. The alcohol might dissolve some plastics and varnishes so be careful. But it's worked well for me, especially on components like circuit cards that are hard to clean by hand.

Hope this is helpful to you and good luck.
The following 2 users liked this post by Unlimited HP:
chimmike (10-17-2017), Mr.AlexanderStorey (10-13-2017)
Old 10-07-2017, 06:51 PM
  #15  
On down the highway

iTrader: (4)
 
Truckin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 24,981
Received 1,673 Likes on 1,090 Posts

Default

Ouch, wish you luck, see your all tore down..one thing your used car buddies forgot to tell you.. carfax will kill any potential resale. Unless you sell private and they don't care?
The following users liked this post:
Mr.AlexanderStorey (10-13-2017)
Old 10-08-2017, 09:34 PM
  #16  
Senior Member
 
jhelrey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: MN
Posts: 2,700
Received 120 Likes on 97 Posts

Default

You have nothing to loose... I would have bought it back as well!

Looking forward to the updates.
The following users liked this post:
Mr.AlexanderStorey (10-13-2017)
Old 10-13-2017, 10:12 AM
  #17  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Mr.AlexanderStorey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 11
Received 11 Likes on 5 Posts
Default 2016 Ford F150 XLT - Hurricane Harvey Insurance Buy Back

2016 Ford F150 XLT - Hurricane Harvey Insurance Buy Back
Update:
AC
Removed Blower, opened cavity, cleaned and disinfected
Ford dealership sold actuator motors cheap. So I replaced all
Going to test blower motor before purchasing new a blower motor

Doors
Went to a pick a part and found all new switches for doors
Clean door panels

Speakers:
upgrade speakers to Infinity Kappa. There are plenty of details on how to upgrade speakers on this forum. so I wont bore you with details
I plan to upgrade the sound system later but for these $200 speakers should do the trick. I've read great reviews. I'll update on quality per price later.
I modified original cage using Sawzall. Soldered new wires into speaker.
No wire hardness required. Original wire set up is used.
Used a multimeter to check continuity across cage connectors and speakers
speaker details:
Infinity kappa 62.11i 6.5" 2-way Car speaker Plus 693.11i 6 x 9" 3-way Car audio speakers
6.5 inch Car Audio 2-way speakers (Pair)
6 x 9-inch 3-way Car Audio Speakers (Pair)
RMS: 150 watts per pair / 75 watts each Peak: 450 watts per pair / 225 watts each
Peak Power Handling: 5-110 watts RMS Power Handling: 330 watts
Impedance: 2-ohms

Installed Dash, wire hardness, ECM, Radio, AC Controls, Cluster,
Installed Steering Colum

Next plan of attack:
Install Carpet
Steering wheel
Install Battery
AND FINALLY begin testing Electronics and turn over engine.
I will run an error diagnostics and see what fault codes show up.
Attached Thumbnails 2016 Ford F150 XLT - Hurricane Harvey Insurance Buy Back-20171002_183524-1-.jpg  
Attached Images          
Old 10-13-2017, 10:40 AM
  #18  
Senior Member
 
digitaltrucker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Texas
Posts: 11,527
Received 2,223 Likes on 1,699 Posts

Default

WOW just as an FYI, there is a product called odoban. Its sold at Home Depot for 10 bucks. While they only carry the eucalyptus scent, it also comes in citris.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/OdoBan-1-...61-G/202560626

It will kill everything from HIV all the way down to mold and mildew. Leaves an initial strong smell then goes away. Its water based and 1 gallon bottle dilutes.

We used it on home in Woodlands after harvey and while others around smelled like clorox, we smelled better.

FYI, great work thanks for sharing!
Old 10-16-2017, 01:43 PM
  #19  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Mr.AlexanderStorey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 11
Received 11 Likes on 5 Posts
Default 2016 Ford F150 XLT - Hurricane Harvey Insurance Buy Back

Found this great website. I thought I would share with everyone.
Wire diagram, Electrical troubleshooting, Electrical Drawings

www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd
The following 3 users liked this post by Mr.AlexanderStorey:
digitaltrucker (10-16-2017), greasyknuckles (10-22-2017), VegasMav (10-20-2017)
Old 10-20-2017, 05:24 PM
  #20  
Junior Member
 
VegasMav's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: #VegasStrong
Posts: 12
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

WOW! I'm seriously impressed. Good luck with the build. I'm sure it will be the most satisfying experience you'll ever have.

Question? So the insurance company wrote you a check for the truck and then sold it back to you for $4G? You'll then end up with a nice truck for about $10G. Awesome.
The following users liked this post:
Mr.AlexanderStorey (11-13-2017)



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:56 AM.