best

To clarify on the Ohms.....I learned a little more about that. I was partially wrong in my initial post.

When the rear slider is open there are 0 or infinity Ohms, meaning I had an open circuit. When the slider is closed I have 517 Ohms. 517 is way off the charts. Meaning the contacts on the slider are probably burnt up or something. You can figure out what the Ohms should be by dividing Volts/Amps. In other words, If I have 14.8 volts feeding the rear defrost circuit and it is being fed by a 40 amp relay, Ohms should be around .35.

Jophez

After driving down some very rough roads the light on the climate control started to work again yesterday!! Now I'm a little more confused if it is a sensor or a loose connection somewhere.....all I know is that I will NOT be moving the rear sliding window again until summer!! LOL

I may go back to my dealer & explain that it is now working...maybe they can look into it a little more.

best

I will all but guarantee that it is a problem with the contacts on the rear slider. Mine did the same thing, it would work every now and then. Then, at one point the light would never turn on again. This is when they replaced the climate control module on my pickup. This was not the problem.

If you have a Multi-meter that will test Ohms, make sure the rear slider is closed all the way, disconnect the power leads on the passenger side of the rear window and test for Ohms. It should read around .37 ohms. Mine read 517, meaning the contacts were burnt up or not working properly where the slider connects to the rear defrost. If it reads Zero or Infinity, it means you have an open circuit, that is a problem too because there is no continuity.

First mine wouldn't come on, then a while later the light would turn on on the switch, but the rear defrost wouldn't work. I think there are a number of things that can go wrong with the rear slider that makes them do different things, all of them leading to the demise of the rear defrost all together. If the contacts are making poor contact or arcing it will eventually not work at all.

In reality, it appears there was a design flaw in the rear slider on some years of F150. Ford went as far as finding a new supplier for the window assembly, and changed part numbers. Of course, they won't recall it though.

My 2011 is still under warranty and was in the shop again for non-working rear defrost on Wednesday of this week. They have ordered the new window and will be replacing it within the next couple of weeks. Ironically, there was another 2011 F150 in for the same thing on the same day, he is getting a new rear window as well.

best

Last Friday the Dealership had their body shop replace the rear glass in my F150. For now the rear defrost works.

However, I have a question that I hope that someone can answer. In the owners manual it states that if the rear slider is operated while the rear defrost is on, the circuitry will turn off.

Can someone verify if the Push button switch (LED) on the climate control is supposed to shut off as well? I am sure that when i first bought this thing, the rear defrost/heated mirror button would shut off if the slider was operated.

Thanks

Smitty75

The problems are not in the glass. It is all the about the contact on the rear sliding window. Mine quit working and if I just bump the button to open the rear slider, the led comes on and all works fine. (the rear slider is not open, all i have done is move the window like 1/64 of an inch, just enough for the apparent very faulty contact to make a connection)

But yes, the led light on the button will go out if you open the rear sliding window.

I would do without before I let anyone ever change my rear glass just for a faulty contact switch. Seats, headliner, upholstery or something would probably never be the same.

vegastype

I am having the same issue where are the contacts found for the sliding window?

GJR

Had the same sporadic issue with my 2011 at 36465 mile the whole thing stopped working. Called Ford Consumer Assitance and my dealer agreed to replace the entire back slider window. May cost me an hour of labor but better than the $900 they quoted me originally. Asked the tech if there was any way to just jump the connections so that the heated mirrors would work. They indicated tehy window replacement was they only way to correct

Meckalicious13

Having the same issue with my 2011 XLT 4x4, 52k miles. Just left the dealership, with a $1200 quote to replace the entire back glass. I'm out of my factory warranty, but I was (semi?) smart and got an extended warranty last year. Got home and checked here to see if anyone else was having the issue, and low and behold!! Dealership said it wasn't covered under the extended warranty. Which made me furious considering I'm paying $90 a month for the best plan Ford offers!! So I called the warranty people, who called the dealership to find out exactly what the dino code was that they got to see if there was anything they could do. Just got a phone call back telling me they put in another code, which is covered by my extended warranty. Amazing what a phone call to the right people will do! So only paying my $200 deductible, instead of $1200...thank God! Hope someone later on can benefit from all of this!

Hammer65

I have the same problem, and I don't care if the rear window defroster works or not. But I woild like to have the switch light come on, when I turn the mirrors and rear window on.
My investigations show that there is a proximity switch in the glass frame and one in the slider. Magnetic I would guess. Shouldn't there be some way to wire around the switch, so the switch would come on. I don't have a wiring diagram and I am about half color blind, so it is hard for me to find it. Maybe someone else can.

Peter R.

I've been struggling with this for a while. Unfortunately Ford Europe won'tt touch it with a barge pole since 150's are not officially imported here, and the grey market reseller is a rear orifice.
Come spring I'm going to tear apart the cabin rear and figure something out.

Pete