Topic Sponsor
Maintenance Shop Keep your Ford F150 truck running strong. Discuss all things maintenance here.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: Innova

2004 air conditioner issues

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Aug 22, 2010 | 04:31 PM
  #1  
arcam's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Default 2004 air conditioner issues

I have a 2004 XL 4.6 that stopped blowing cold air!. When I was checking under the hood, I noticed that the compressor would lick in for a couple of second, then kick out. It kept this up as long as I had the engine running. Any ideas what could be causing this?

Last edited by arcam; Aug 22, 2010 at 04:37 PM.
Reply
Old Aug 22, 2010 | 05:27 PM
  #2  
FX4_Envy's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
From: Newton, Ks
Default

Lots of things can cause that. It could be a bad electrical connection, low/high pressure switch, thermostat, poor air flow across the thermostat, or expansion valve. You really need to hook some gauges up to it though and see whats going on.
Reply
Old Aug 23, 2010 | 03:12 PM
  #3  
Kattumaram's Avatar
Retired Aerospace
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,324
Likes: 14
From: Edgewater, Florida
Default The Usual Things:

Low refrigerant. Bad compressor clutch control switch.

Put a manifold guage set on the low-side and high-side ports, start the engine at fast idle, MaxAC, medium blower speed. Look for low-side cycling ~27psi clutch off to ~47psi clutch on with high-side near 200psi.
If the low-side pressures are not withing these limits, the pressure switch is bad and needs a replacement....an easy job and fairly cheap. A BWD unit from Advance Auto Parts works.

If the pressures on the low-side look good and the high-side pressure is low, the system needs refrigerant, R134A.

Of course the switch could be bad and the system low on refrigerant as well....the guages will tell the story.

You will want to check for evidence of refrigeration-oil leaks....the compressor shaft seal is a candidate as well as any of the connection fittings you can see in the system. If there is a major leak, then some serious AC maintenance is indicated, preferably by a pro.

Last edited by Kattumaram; Aug 23, 2010 at 03:29 PM.
Reply
Old Aug 23, 2010 | 03:59 PM
  #4  
arcam's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Default

Looks like a set A/C gauges are in my future!

Thanks,

Oh, and where would that pressure switch be located?
Reply
Old Aug 23, 2010 | 04:47 PM
  #5  
Kattumaram's Avatar
Retired Aerospace
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,324
Likes: 14
From: Edgewater, Florida
Default Should Be the Same:

The switch should be located on the top of the accumulator/dryer cannister....at least it is on my '97; however, it may be located anywhere on the low-side plumbing.
Reply
Old Aug 24, 2010 | 05:03 PM
  #6  
arcam's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Default

I think i have these gauges figured out. The low side is cycling from about 20 to 40 and the high side just over 100. I'm guessing I need to add some .

Do any of these stop leak products work or would I be messing things up further?

Thanks

Last edited by arcam; Aug 24, 2010 at 06:22 PM.
Reply
Old Aug 25, 2010 | 07:52 PM
  #7  
arcam's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Default

Here's the latest. I added a can (most of it) of r134a and the cycling reduced to about 10 sec on and 8 off. The readings on the gages were; low side: 40 on, 20 off, high side: 100 on, 125 off. Am I still low on refrigerant or should look at my switch? Ambient temp is 75 deg and the engine is running at idle. Thanks

Last edited by arcam; Aug 25, 2010 at 08:02 PM.
Reply




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:00 AM.