1997 Door Lock Switch
My first post here. I'm not a mechanic, so pardon the simple question. If replacing the driver side Lock/Unlock switch, will the same part work in driver or passenger door? Or are there 2 types of switch depending on which door? The shop replaced the switch and it is upside down now. Their explanation was when they ordered the part, they were sent the passenger door switch. But they have made mistakes before. Incidentally, I am learning more and hope to do more of my own repairs. I just managed to replace the door lock actuator (not so easy to do!) by myself, and saved a lot of money. I'm just tired of being way overcharged for repairs.
I'd have refused to pay. If the wrong part arrives, they should REFUSE it, and get the RIGHT part - not hack it or the truck.
If the switch is horizontal, they're different; Ford usually puts LOCK toward the rear edge of the door, so they'd be mirrored. If the switch is vertical, they should be identical. Post pics.
You should put ALL your truck's details & history (as much as you know) into your signature so it shows with each post, as this page explains:
(click this text)

Phone apps don't always show signatures, so you may need to switch to a real browser in desktop mode on your phone, or just use a desktop/laptop computer. Put your location (nearest city) in your profile &/or signature, & upload an avatar of the truck. The more pics you post (NOT in your sig) of the truck, engine, wiring, labels, & undercarriage, the more likely we can help you. Not all its details are relevant to these issues, but you don't necessarily know which ones are relevant, so just put everything in now.
If the switch is horizontal, they're different; Ford usually puts LOCK toward the rear edge of the door, so they'd be mirrored. If the switch is vertical, they should be identical. Post pics.
You should put ALL your truck's details & history (as much as you know) into your signature so it shows with each post, as this page explains:
(click this text)
Phone apps don't always show signatures, so you may need to switch to a real browser in desktop mode on your phone, or just use a desktop/laptop computer. Put your location (nearest city) in your profile &/or signature, & upload an avatar of the truck. The more pics you post (NOT in your sig) of the truck, engine, wiring, labels, & undercarriage, the more likely we can help you. Not all its details are relevant to these issues, but you don't necessarily know which ones are relevant, so just put everything in now.
Thanks for reply. I understand about refusing the wrong part, but here was the problem: It was rather an emergency, and the truck was almost undriveable as it was, with the electric lock randomly bouncing up and down as I drove, wearing down the battery, and doing this sometimes after turning off the engine! The repair guy led me to believe that this new switch would temporarily fix the problem so I could drive the truck, then he would re-order the correct switch to change it later. I later found out that he had not solved the problem, This was a trusted local auto and tire place so will continue to use them. They ended up firing this particular new mechanic. The whole saga was so frustrating that I researched the correct diagnosis myself (I'm not a mechanic), it was a bad actuator, not bad switch. So they discarded a perfectly good switch, didn't fix the problem, and charged me an arm and a leg to make it worse than before! I ordered the actuator, did the rather difficult repair successfully myself (lock actuator is almost inaccessible), then went back and got a full refund. The horizontal switch they installed is still upsidedown, so will go back one more time for them to resolve it, and it better be free. Thank you.

