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Wind noise from driver side window/door

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Old Feb 10, 2016 | 05:01 PM
  #201  
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Originally Posted by doolin64
After the dealer adjusted my door the knocking noise went away. The sucking/escaping wind noise over bumpy roads is still present. And only happens in sub 45 degree weather. Imo it's a simple door seal issue. Not once did I have an issue in the summer. The chemical properties of the rubber must contract too much in the cold. When it's hot my dash squeak comes back and my door goes silent. Lol.
Wow. You just described my truck to a T. Seriously, I own your truck's twin.
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Old Feb 10, 2016 | 06:35 PM
  #202  
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Originally Posted by NCLou
Any chance you could show some clear pictures of what you actually did? I appreciate the instructions given in this thread but they are to vague for my level of experience. The description of your problem is exactly what I have..Thanks Lou. ps I don't understand how the door pivots up at the rear without loosening the top and bottom hinge mounting points.
Here is a photo of the top door hinge .. Sharpie mark shows how much adjustment I did:
Attached Thumbnails Wind noise from driver side window/door-image-1862627981.jpg  
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Old Feb 10, 2016 | 06:53 PM
  #203  
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Great pic! That's all the movement that's needed.
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Old Feb 10, 2016 | 07:56 PM
  #204  
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Originally Posted by FX4EB
Here is a photo of the top door hinge .. Sharpie mark shows how much adjustment I did:
Man great pic thanks. Hard to believe such a small change does the trick. I will compare your pic to my truck once the snow melts off of it! Does all of the door adjustment take place on the door side of the hinge?
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Old Feb 10, 2016 | 08:11 PM
  #205  
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Small changes are amplified by the length of the door. If you make bigger changes you will start to see other alignment issues. I'm also no expert - just trying to follow along with all the goodness in the thread. I think some door adjustment is also handled on the body side of the hinge. Anything more than this adjustment would have me worried about making things a LOT worse!
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Old Feb 10, 2016 | 08:14 PM
  #206  
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Being a machinist, I would suggest having a good caliper on hand to check and record before/after measurements taken at several key locations, so if an adjustment is made and the problem becomes worse, you can rectify it
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Old Feb 10, 2016 | 08:45 PM
  #207  
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You are correct in making that move to the hinge. Small moves should not affect you too bad in other areas (1-2mm). Tipping the top of the door in should fix your wind noise problem, but you could get issues in other areas such as:

- Creating drag on your striker ( this can be easily fixed also with a TX40 and a hammer, this can also increase your closing effort.)
- Increased door closing efforts
- Flushness fit to the rest of the body panels i.e. door to door flushness and fender to door flushness

Ford has never made their trucks with seals like this before. These trucks are basically triple sealed. When fit correctly these doors really work well for noise and effort. There is a tradeoff between door closing effort and wind noise. You can have a nice closing effort, but it increases your chance of wind noise, inversely you can have zero wind noise, but until you seal gets well broken in it will increase you effort.
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Old Feb 10, 2016 | 08:59 PM
  #208  
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Originally Posted by brad_2015
You are correct in making that move to the hinge. Small moves should not affect you too bad in other areas (1-2mm). Tipping the top of the door in should fix your wind noise problem, but you could get issues in other areas such as:

- Creating drag on your striker ( this can be easily fixed also with a TX40 and a hammer, this can also increase your closing effort.)
- Increased door closing efforts
- Flushness fit to the rest of the body panels i.e. door to door flushness and fender to door flushness

Ford has never made their trucks with seals like this before. These trucks are basically triple sealed. When fit correctly these doors really work well for noise and effort. There is a tradeoff between door closing effort and wind noise. You can have a nice closing effort, but it increases your chance of wind noise, inversely you can have zero wind noise, but until you seal gets well broken in it will increase you effort.

Ever wonder why they needed triple seals?

So far I've succeeded in making mine worse moving the hinges haha!
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Old Feb 10, 2016 | 09:16 PM
  #209  
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Originally Posted by brad_2015
You are correct in making that move to the hinge. Small moves should not affect you too bad in other areas (1-2mm). Tipping the top of the door in should fix your wind noise problem, but you could get issues in other areas such as:

- Creating drag on your striker ( this can be easily fixed also with a TX40 and a hammer, this can also increase your closing effort.)
- Increased door closing efforts
- Flushness fit to the rest of the body panels i.e. door to door flushness and fender to door flushness

Ford has never made their trucks with seals like this before. These trucks are basically triple sealed. When fit correctly these doors really work well for noise and effort. There is a tradeoff between door closing effort and wind noise. You can have a nice closing effort, but it increases your chance of wind noise, inversely you can have zero wind noise, but until you seal gets well broken in it will increase you effort.
This thread is cooking now. How does the rear of the door rotate upward without loosening the bottom mounting point? Wouldn't the bottom mounting point act as a pivot?
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Old Feb 10, 2016 | 09:16 PM
  #210  
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I have only 2500 mils on my 2015 and it does seem like more wind noise. I noticed by chance that the back window was not 100% closed. When I hit the close switch it moved maybe 1/8 inch. Noise seems a bit less now. Total random find, so might be worth checking.

The back window facing the bed, not the back seat passenger windows.
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