Keep in mind that this could be classified as drunken rambling, but if I wanted to go with 22”s with 35 inch tires, how much lift would I need and what would be my optimum offset? I have a 2017 FX4 with stock 18s on the stock 32 inch tires currently. If I do this I’ll go chrome to stick with the chrome look on my chrome package XLT. I’ve done lots of wheel/tire/suspension work on many cars but this is my first truck so I’m a bit out of my element. I’ve had this truck since new and it’s the first vehicle I’ve kept essentially stock since new. I’ve done a lot of reading but without experience I’d prefer to defer to someone that has done this before.

 

Keep in mind the rim diameter has zero effect on lift size. Offset/backspace of the width of the wheel for sure.

I'm sure you're read just as I have, many are able to go 35's with 2.5" of lift. Sometimes, depending on the actual tire, width and offset of the rim, you may need to remove the crash bar.

 

Good point there. The only reason I mention wheel size is because I think that’s going to narrow my range of available offsets. So far it’s just an idea but most 22”s I’ve seen have looked a bit gaudy. I guess this may work itself out with a bit of trial and error once I have wheel specs of a wheel I like knowing it’s offset.

 

I'm not familiar with diameters that large, have had one vehicle with 20's (20x10). The width and offset/backspace will be your concern.

Look up some wheel calculators to help learn how a wheel will sit relative to stock when changing the offset/back space values.

The more you push outward, the more collision points you can introduce. To help visualize this, turn your steering until the leading edge of the tire is closest to a contact point, like the bumper. Now consider what will happen if the wheel is 1/2" closer. Also consider, the contact point will be approximately 1.5" higher than your factor tire. So at the nearest contact point, come up ~1.5 inches then look for an interference that is less than 1/2". Doing that will prove to you that if you shift your wheel out 1/2", that's a possible contact point. Then use the calculators, say you want it only 1/4" further than stock, maybe you're clear now?

It's tedious, and when going with max sizing there is always a possibility of introducing an interference point.
It's also difficult when you know one person has the size wheel you decide on, yet the tire choice is different and now it rubs. One may have larger lugs, or deeper tread. Bleh.....soo confusing sometimes. ha

 

This is what I went with...