Want to level but want some rake for towing
#1
Want to level but want some rake for towing
I have a 2016 XLT, screw FX4 sport with OEM 20"s. I want to raise the front at least so I can fit some bigger tires, probably 33"s but open to suggestions. I'm worried that if I raise the front too much with spacers or coilovers that when I tow my boat, it will be nose up in the front. I hate that look so I'd like to keep a little rake.
Im considering the Fox 2.0s in the front and maybe the back too while I'm at it. I'm thinking 285/65/20 as well. I like the idea that coilovers should improve performance and these ones would be adjustable.
If I go with this setup and set the height at 2" in the front and leave the rear stock, will that give me enough rake or do I need to consider blocks in the back as well?
Dumb question: the description for the Fox rear shocks says the ride height is between 0 - 1", does that mean that the rear shocks themselves add height to the rear end or they allow up to a 1 inch block?
Any recommendations as far as the setup I'm considering are appreciated.
Thanks
Im considering the Fox 2.0s in the front and maybe the back too while I'm at it. I'm thinking 285/65/20 as well. I like the idea that coilovers should improve performance and these ones would be adjustable.
If I go with this setup and set the height at 2" in the front and leave the rear stock, will that give me enough rake or do I need to consider blocks in the back as well?
Dumb question: the description for the Fox rear shocks says the ride height is between 0 - 1", does that mean that the rear shocks themselves add height to the rear end or they allow up to a 1 inch block?
Any recommendations as far as the setup I'm considering are appreciated.
Thanks
Last edited by Sauritch; 01-24-2017 at 11:38 AM.
#3
Super Duper Senior Member
Cheapest option would to use a leveling kit up front, and lift in the rear. You should have an 1 1/2'" spacer in the rear. Do a 2" or 2 1/2" level up front, and get a 3" lift block for the rear.
#4
that being said, its still going to squat once you put a load on the rear of the truck, only way to overcome the squat is to have stiffer springs( worse ride), or use airbags
these trucks squat with a 300 lb tongue weight, I am putting airbags back on the truck to get back to level... I am not doing this to increase load capacity, purely to level the truck back out so it drives as it was engineered to do so
as for kits I have seen front/ rear kits to lift/level for about $130, front only for $50 and the airbags are about 250-300 depending on brand
dont get the ones that have the internal bumper thing
#5
I run an AutoSpring 1.5" level up front. In the back I have Fox 2.0 shocks and Roadmaster Active Suspension. The RAS boosted the back end up 3/4". Combined with the level, the truck sits higher with a less aggressive rake, rides much better, and squats less. It still has enough rake that you need substantial tongue weight to sit nose high. The 285/70R17 KO2 tires fit great with no rub.
#6
I just put 275/70/18 duratracs on my truck with no level and it looks awesome. No rubbing and no messing with factory front end components. Had it at dealer recently and he didn't beleive me that it didn't have a level!
#7
Flaccid Member
Here's the approach I'm going to take:
Install 2" add-a-leaf kit in the rear; increases payload by 950 lbs, give or take. Then remove factory 1-1/4" block.
Net gain in rear height won't be much... but it won't squat with a trailer or full bed, and it'll work with any factory-length rear shock. Also, AAL kits are inexpensive; $100 or so gets you a Fat Bob's Garage setup.
I don't know why anyone would add a rear block when this is an option. If your answer is, "because of a stiffer ride," well... it's a truck.
Install 2" add-a-leaf kit in the rear; increases payload by 950 lbs, give or take. Then remove factory 1-1/4" block.
Net gain in rear height won't be much... but it won't squat with a trailer or full bed, and it'll work with any factory-length rear shock. Also, AAL kits are inexpensive; $100 or so gets you a Fat Bob's Garage setup.
I don't know why anyone would add a rear block when this is an option. If your answer is, "because of a stiffer ride," well... it's a truck.
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cdoxp800 (01-26-2017)
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#8
Senior Member
I'm was in the same the same boat. I have 22k on my truck and probably 9K of that is hooked to a trailer. 28' enclosed snowmobile trailer, boat trailers, 4-wheeler trailers, often run with 2 dirt bikes in the back and so far has been great.
I did 1.5 Level kit, firestone air bags in the rear. I run 285/65/20 BFG KO2 on stock wheels with no rubbing.
Add-a-leafs absolutely don't make sense to me ride like crap empty and no adjustability. I guess they're cheaper than an airbag set up but once you've spent 40-50k on a truck...
I did 1.5 Level kit, firestone air bags in the rear. I run 285/65/20 BFG KO2 on stock wheels with no rubbing.
Add-a-leafs absolutely don't make sense to me ride like crap empty and no adjustability. I guess they're cheaper than an airbag set up but once you've spent 40-50k on a truck...
The following 2 users liked this post by MGM:
crockett56 (01-24-2017),
swimmarz (01-24-2017)
#9
Flaccid Member
Meh. Many (most?) owners report no or very little impact to ride harshness as a result of adding a proper-length spring. I will do it for a little bit of additional height and the additional capacity to account for 200# of Decked drawers and 200# of cap. My bed will never be "empty." And for that, I don't need adjustability. Mine was a comparison between blocks and leafs, not leafs and bags, as I don't need and didn't mention them. These are different categories of needs. If your truck rides like crap when empty, consider shocks.
And to answer the OP's question, the rear shocks will not add ride height.
And to answer the OP's question, the rear shocks will not add ride height.