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Using Ramps OK for Oil Change?

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Old 06-02-2018, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by ManMountainDean
My 2.7 EB is approaching 3000 miles and I want to change the oil myself on this truck. Just concerned that putting it up on ramps will throw off the oil level and not drain properly. How else without a lift can you do this yourself?
I don't use ramps, I can silde right under. Also some advice (from the manual) "Switch the engine off and wait 15 minutes for the oil to drain into the oil pan. Checking the engine oil level too soon after you switch the engine off may result in an inaccurate reading."

What I do is fully drain the oil then add 6 quarts. Perfect every time.
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Old 06-03-2018, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by ManMountainDean
My 2.7 EB is approaching 3000 miles and I want to change the oil myself on this truck. Just concerned that putting it up on ramps will throw off the oil level and not drain properly. How else without a lift can you do this yourself?
Not sure how the 2.7 is set up, but if it's like the 3.5, be careful when draining the filter on ramps. The 3.5 has a catch tray that has built in channels to direct the oil to your drain pan. It's actually a great setup that makes keeping things clean easy. I had my drain pan under the front drain channel for the filter. I didn't realize there was a rear drain channel too. Being on ramps, everything settles to the rear. The good news is that the rear channel works well. The bad news is I didn't have my drain pan there.
Old 06-03-2018, 09:21 AM
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Been posted before, but I'll add it here again. When changing the filter, put a plastic bag over it and the housing, then unscrew the filter inside the bag. Many have reported little mess with this option.
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Old 06-03-2018, 09:26 AM
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Good tips. Thanks.
Old 06-03-2018, 09:45 AM
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I’ve found that cutting about a third of a gallon milk jug off so you form a funnel with the handle remaining is a good idea.Hold it close to drain plug and above your drain pan and you can contain that very strong, initial, surge of oil.
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Old 06-03-2018, 09:46 AM
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Since the 2.7L uses a cartridge style of filter on top of the engine the best method is to unscrew using a 27mm socket but don't remove while waiting for all the oil to drain back down to the pan (I usually wait 30 minutes before removing the drain plug). By then there's very little oil to deal with when removing the canister. The hardest part of the whole process is the fat little o-ring on the filter canister. It is a pain to install the new one.
Old 06-03-2018, 10:18 AM
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I'm post 17. My mind is blown that nobody has told you you're an idiot for changing it before the IOLM tells you to. LMFAO
Old 06-03-2018, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by idrive
I'm post 17. My mind is blown that nobody has told you you're an idiot for changing it before the IOLM tells you to. LMFAO
Me too. There’s no way I’m going 10K miles until the first oil change.
Old 06-03-2018, 11:45 AM
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You're not an idiot for changing it early, but there is no reason to change it early either. To each his own, if it makes you feel good, do it.
Old 06-03-2018, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by ManMountainDean


Me too. There’s no way I’m going 10K miles until the first oil change.
My first oil change was at lil over 9k, 12% on the monitor. Had an oil analysis done by Blackstone Labs and they said the oil was in good shape, coulda gone even longer without problems, maybe even to 0% oil life. Just changed it the 3rd time at 13% and almost 9k and awaiting another analysis result to be sure. If it says the oils is still in good shape, going to probably make it a habit to change between 10% - 12% oil life and 10k and lay off the oil analysis for a few oil changes.
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