In the OP first post, the starter was supposedly replaced.
Was it?
If yes, the problem still exists.
Cranking uses a 'request' from the ignition to a module over the BUS to operate the power circuit from the battery to the starter.
This has to involve a power relay capable of passing a hundred amps. Is this a case of faulty contacts?
Trouble is intermittent. Is it poor connection in either the positive or negative side of the circuit? In such cases, the poor connection generates high heat at the point and can melt the area permitting a 'fresh' connection that can heat again and re-fail. An example of this can happen at the battery where Lead post with poor connection can melt the Lead resulting in a change of resistance allowing the passage of current then again, the next time, results in a poor connection again from the high current load. The indications of this are >pock< marks and small melted voids in the lead post, an indication of high heat and poor connection at that point. Best to take every point apart, clean it and resemble to eliminate these easy access areas.
Checks for voltage drops in the high current parts of the circuit need to be checked for.
Unless someone does these checks, the issue will just go on.
.
Over the years I have saw about everything that can happen from internal battery cell strap failure to faulty cables, to starters that bind, to starter brushes that are worn and hang up off the commutator to burnt start relays or multiple issue all at the same time.
The time and effort have to be put in. At over 127k miles, anything could be the issue.
.
For those who understand Ohms electrical law, a series resistance of just one tenth of an Ohm result in a 10 volt drop trying to pass 100 amps to the starter. That is Voltage = Current times Resistance or E= I x R. 100 X .1= 10. So, you see, circuit connections make all the difference. This drop does not leave much of any voltage left to cause the starter motor to turn over a high compression engine under cylinder compression.
Good luck.

 

Answering the last post from Bluegrass, Yes the starter was replaced as well as the battery approximately 6 months ago when the problem first reared it's ugly head. Thank you for asking.

Following on to the last post. Given the info from the forum, thanks to everyone. I connected with Ford Performance and had a long talk with one of their techs. He wanted to make sure that the voltage on both start posts had been checked before I bought a starter from Ford Performance. So, I went to the dealership to ask if they had done the voltage checks. They had not. But they had decided among themselves that the problem was a timing issue and their next step was to take down the front of the engine to check the timing parts. Although the computer check says the timing is where it is expected to be, they feel that it may be too close to top dead center.
I explained the info I had from the Forum and from Ford Performance. Being as the engine has to be hot for the starter to fail I asked if I could drive the truck for a while and then have them do the voltage test.
Drove the truck for 30 minutes, went back to the dealer and the truck did not fail. Started like new. Did the voltage test on both starter posts and the voltage was spot on with the truck starting. Drove the truck for another hour, went back to the dealer, the truck would not fail. Tested the voltage again and it was spot on.
The service manager guessed the cost to check out the timing components at $3000. The Ford Performance starter is $450. I'm leaning toward the starter.
I would greatly appreciate your input? Thanks to everyone in advance.

 

I'll qualify this by saying I'm not an expert on starters or electronics.... that said, given the dealerships "Head" mechanic claimed the problem was due to being low on oil, charged you $400 for an oil change, a reflash and a new dip stick, and is now saying its a $3,000 timing problem, I'd be inclined to first spend $450 on the new starter, especially considering the positive experience others have had replacing their starters. That doesn't mean that this is the right approach, but its probably the direction I would go. I might also add that it seems when others have had this problem, its more likely to occur after the truck has been driven under a higher load (often times towing) for a prolonged period of time at highway speeds. Its possible that you may not have placed a high enough load or generated enough heat to cause the starter to fail during your voltage tests with the dealer. Regardless, I would drop $450 on a Ford Performance starter if it were me.

My .02

 

Any stored codes? Sounds like crank position sensor to me.

 

Mb1500, thank you for your response. There have not been any stored codes. The only response from the truck occurs when after several tries to start, it flashes a message, "Service charging system immediately".
I would appreciate any info on the crank position sensor. This is what the dealership was leaning towards. They said they would need to check the timing chains and 6 or 8 sensors on the crank and the cams.
HangDiver, I'm leaning towards the starter as well. It's either a $450 fix and I save $3000, or I'm in for $3450. Thank you for your input.

 

HELP! I bought the Ford Performance Starter. The starter came with a new cable, two wires. The online instructions direct you to replace the starter cable with the new one. The instructions show a stand alone starter relay. I couldn't find a starter relay except for the one in the fuse box under the hood mounted on the passenger fender. The replacement cable has two wires, one large red and the other smaller wire is orange. At the starter end they should be the main starter wire and the solenoid wire. The large red wire should attach to the fuse box but I can't find where the orange wire attaches.
I talked to a Tech at Ford Performance and he didn't know because he is a tech for mustangs not trucks. So, does anyone know where the small wire attaches?
Thanks for everyone's help.

 

Recently my 2018 would not start once after driving for a while, when I turned the key it would give that first half a turn, sounding much the same as if your battery is too dead to even turn it over once. After a few more tries it started okay, and I shut it off & restarted several times ok.

It was behaving the same way my '99 F250 used to when the starter went bad, like a flat spot it would hit once in awhile.

I recently had the cam phaser issue fixed at the dealer, and I had a front bearing going so I took it in with 400km's left on my extended warranty. I told them about the starter, exaggerated the problem slightly saying it happened a few times, they checked it out and said it needed replacing, so I got a new one under warranty.

I was using the auto shut off feature more lately, trying to see if it helped overall mileage, but I will be disabling it all the time now. I see on the new trucks they offer to disable that feature.

 

Glenstr, Thanks for the input.
After a short trip, say ten miles, I get the dead battery on the first try, sometimes the second. But then it starts like normal. If it's a longer trip or pulling a trailer, it may take 20 to 30 minutes for the engine to cool before it starts, I installed a new starter and battery. No improvement.
The truck pulled the no start routine when I stopped at a service station about a month ago. I had a dump trailer hooked up. I called a wrecker. Wrecker Tech tried to jump it off with the biggest jump start I had ever seem. No luck. Put the truck on the roll back, Hooker the trailer up and we headed for my house. Got everything unloaded. While he was figuring up my bill, I tried the truck. It started right up. This is getting old. Since then I'm carful about shutting it off anywhere but home.
I deactivated the auto shutoff soon after I bought truck. Paper clip in the wire connector.

I'm hoping that someone out there can help me with my cable issue for the new Ford Performance "High Torque" starter.

 

I don't know what you are using to scan for DTCs, but the only way for that message to appear in the IPC is by a DTC related to the charging system. Less expensive OBDII code readers often will not read non-active DTCs stored in memory.

You haven't said what year your truck is. Could your starting problem be a bad starter relay in the BJB? For a MY2016 that is Relay-65.

 

52merrc, Thanks for the response.
My Truck is a 2018 F150, 5L, 10 speed, supper crew.
I had the Ford dealer scan and they didn't find any code history related to my problem.