Trailer Brake Controller Issues - Ford Disaster - Solved
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Hottap (07-17-2022)
05-21-2018, 11:55 PM
#22
Senior Member
That's exactly what you DON'T want. You want to decrease resistance/increase load. The resistor is being used as an ancillary load. Connect it between brake power and ground.
Last edited by PerryB; 05-21-2018 at 11:59 PM.
05-22-2018, 10:46 AM
#23
Ok, so splice one end into the brake wire and the other to a ground ? Hmmmm, seems like it would blow a fuse when you hit the brake, but then again I'm not that resistance/load savvy !
05-22-2018, 01:08 PM
#24
Senior Member
Delete/duplicate
Last edited by PerryB; 05-22-2018 at 04:47 PM.
05-22-2018, 01:09 PM
#25
Senior Member
You're creating an additional / dummy load to help wake up the controller. A brake magnet would work equally well in that role. I can't help but wonder if many of these problems with the new controllers don't stem from old/faulty magnets that aren't producing an adequate load.
05-22-2018, 02:02 PM
#26
You're creating an additional / dummy load to help wake up the controller. A brake magnet would work equally well in that role. I can't help but wonder if many of these problems with the new controllers don't stem from old/faulty magnets that aren't producing an adequate load.
05-22-2018, 04:45 PM
#27
Senior Member
Correct
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mtnxtreme (05-22-2018)
05-23-2018, 09:35 PM
#28
I had a similar issue with my 2006 Silverado. I could use some trailers just fine, but I bought a car hauler and found the brakes didn't always work. I know the brake controller worked as it was fine on other trailers, but my trailer had an issue where I could apply the brakes and nothing would happen at the trailer, so I applied the brakes harder to stop, then they'd lock up. It was very intermittent. I replaced all of the wiring on the trailer but that didn't help. My neighbor borrowed my trailer to haul a 57 Chevy to a show and had the same issues. He had a Chevy Tahoe. The guy I bought the trailer from had a Dodge and never had any issues. He proved it to me by hooking up and the brakes worked fine. All of us had different aftermarket brake controllers, so we blamed the trailer, but it worked on the Dodge. Never figured it out and sold the trailer.
05-23-2018, 10:40 PM
#29
Senior Member
No brakes followed by lockup sounds like a time-based controller. Timed controllers SUCK and are a total waste of money. They are cheap ($$), and you get exactly what you pay for. The best controllers use a pressure transducer, and premium accellerometer units (like the P3) are a close second. The biggest problem with Ford's latest ITBC, which uses a pressure transducer, is that it's been made too "smart". If it sees any loads outside it's narrowly defined range, it loses it's little mind and fails to function correctly.
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Hottap (07-17-2022)
05-24-2018, 10:19 AM
#30
The brake controller I mentioned was a very expensive controller and worked fine on every trailer, except the last one. If I borrowed a trailer, it worked great. I owned two different trailers with that truck, and the only issue was with the one trailer. I kept blaming the trailer, but it made no sense after I replaced all of the wiring. You may be on to something, but I wish you found this years ago when I needed it! And posted it on a Chevy forum!!!