I definitely agree that the F150 is lighter and is at least causing some of the problem. I used to tow a lot of boats and I remember when tongue weight was not set up right the “tail wagging the dog”. It’s a terrible feeling, however there has to be something I’m doing wrong with the setup on this truck.
Ive racked my brain trying to figure out what is causing it. You have a lighter truck, I’ve changed the hitch settings with no luck, throw in a lift, different tongue weight, and airbags and honestly it confused the heck out of me.
I will have to take the trailer over the scale and check things out, it’s just a pain in the *** doing this.
Thanks for the replies so far guys!

 

I used a Husky round bar WDH with a single sway bar on it when I had a 2014,It towed my Coleman great, no sway, handled great. Same hitch, same trailer, 2016 F150, could not get it dialed in at all. Replaced the Husky with a Blue Ox, nailed it the first time.

Just remember, the air bags do not work well with a WH, set them to the minimum and leave them there. If you add air after setting up they will counteract the WDH and you will be going in circles. Hate to say it, but the new gen F150 needs the best hitch you can find or it becomes sway happy.

 

Just had a look at Blue Ox on Amazon and they are around $1000 CAD! Yikes

 

I tow a light 2200lb unloaded trailer with my 17 screw 5.0 with 3.31 gears. When first towing (going up from a 07 Rav4 V6) I noticed it frelt dramatically worse than the Rav, switched out the tires for LT which did not make a difference, ended up switching the shocks out for Bilstien 5100's and it made all the difference in the world. When I took the old shock with about 40,000 km on them, I found I could compress and pull them back out by hand (some resistance but not nearly enough). Really believe Ford missed the mark with the shocks on the 17's and probably other years.

 

So that's what, $50 US?

In all seriousness, if you can wait a few weeks, use one of the price-tracking tools out there to watch the price of the appropriate hitch on Amazon. I think I saw a $50-100 (US) fluctuation while I was shopping and I ended up paying around $625 US, including Prime shipping (which shocked me given the size and weight involved).

I'm not sure if it's a US-only price, but WikiBuy shows at least one seller offering the 1000-pound bars for about $500 (US) plus shipping.

Also, if it helps, consider the amount of money in the trailer and truck combined, and look at the WDH as a portion of that.

 

Keep looking around, occasionally they come up as clearance. I got mine from Camping World, it is BXW1500, with 1500 pound bars, and was on clearance. Paid about $500 with free shipping. Equilizer is also a good brand, but about the same cost.

 

I’m just disappointed that I bought the trailer and invested in what the dealer sold for a hitch at the time.
It did work great on my other truck though so can’t really complain about it.

I wasn’t really prepared to spend big on another hitch but it boils down to safety for my family and others on the road so I have to do something.

I will start by setting up the original hitch again once I bring the trailer home, and go from there. I’m interested to see what leaving the airbags at 5 lbs will do for me actually as I know I usually run at least 30 lbs in them as I always have gear in the back. Maybe it’s as simple as that, however I do think I tried that before....

Having said that, I don’t have a manual for my hitch and there is numerous videos on YouTube but some seem to approach it differently. Can anyone recommend a good video to use?

Thanks again for the replies guys!

 

For the majority of hitches, they follow a basic setup. Measure front and rear wheel well openings and record them. Level the trailer and measure the distance from ground to top of the socket. Install the hitch head on the shank to the ball is 1" higher than the socket measurement.

Some hitches like the Husky round bar I have use a measurement for the spring bar tips to ground based on the frame size. This is used to set the head tilt.

End result however is to return the front fender height to the original reading that you first took along with having a leveled trailer. It should also be about a 1" difference in rear well height, 1" lower that stock.

What brand/model hitch do you have?

 

Sorry, been away for a bit. The hitch is a husky round bar but I have no idea what model it is.

 

www.etrailer.com has good prices on the Blue Ox WDH. That is what I use on mine. Your TT is about the same weight as mine and I use the 1K bars. The Blue Ox is really easy to set up, but you have to make sure you are on very level ground for proper set up. Mine was not set up on very level ground and was getting sway no matter what I did. Had to raise the hitch up some and now the only sway I get is when a semi blows my doors off going by at 80 MPH. I have also replaced the rear shocks with Bilstein shocks 4600 series. Also replacing the cheap China bomb tires on the trailer with some Goodyear Endurance tires helped a lot too but the best thing I did was to add Roadmaster Active Suspension to the rear. RAS with the shocks really took the bounce out of the rear. You will need to ditch the airbags with RAS, RAS does two thing, it like adding helper spring and an anti sway bar all in one package. They are pricey, but really improved over all control and handling of the truck.