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Old Jun 16, 2020 | 12:50 PM
  #21  
dalola's Avatar
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Probably also worth noting, if you have any decent weight/aero at all, single axle trailers basically suck compared to a tandem axle. Two axles just pull so much better.
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Old Jun 16, 2020 | 01:34 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Joe Williamson
I tow a pop up camper up camper that weighs a little over 3000 lbs when loaded. i also bring 4 kayaks and the bed of my truck full of stuff to bring camping. Id say with everything we bring including my family we are somewhere around 5000 lbs total. I have a class 4 hitch and brake controller installed. How can i tighten up the truck to handle better on the highway? I feel like it wants to sway and it feels loose.
Trailer Weight
​​​​​​3,000 lb pop-up + Kayaks.
Are the Kayaks on top of the pop up?
Trailer needs to be within GVWR.
Trailer Axle needs to be within GAWR.
​​​​​​Tongue Weight needs to be a minimum of 10% of the total of trailer weight. 12% would be better.

Truck weight
Are the Kayaks on a truck rack?
Accessories - Anything none OEM on the truck?
Cargo Weight + Passenger Weight?
Truck needs to be loaded so GVWR and GAWR are within limits when trailer tongue is hooked to it.

Yellow Payload Sticker from the door.

What do the Kayaks plus any rack they are carried on weigh?

Do you have the OEM Passenger Tires (assuming that's what they are) inflated to maximum cold inflation pressure on the sidewall to try to stiffen them or door placard pressure?

Actual weights from a scale would be nice as it would give us some idea of what weight you are actually carrying and towing and if the truck or camper are overloaded.

If you have 2,000 lb + 400 lb tongue weight on a 1600-1800 lb Payload truck that would be part of the problem.
​​​​​​


Last edited by Gene K; Jun 16, 2020 at 01:36 PM.
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Old Jun 16, 2020 | 01:42 PM
  #23  
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[color=#222222]what leaf spring block did you add? i did just add bilstein 5100's to the rear end to help but id like to add the blocks as well. thanks
Readylift lift blocks but I don't recommend it at all. The hardware supplied did not match the thread pitch of the longer shackles. Stripped them pretty badly during install. Ended up ordering brand new shackles from American trucks. Much better quality.
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Old Jun 24, 2020 | 11:41 AM
  #24  
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Might be beneficial to add a rear sway bar if one wasn't already installed. Hellwig makes a good kit. Part Number: 7743 - REAR SWAY BAR KIT FORD 15-20 F-150, 17-20 RAPTOR W/ 0-2" LIFT. They even have a kit for trucks that been lifted 4-6". I would defiantly recommend upgrading to LT series tires that are at least C range. If you plan on towing more or hauling more than 800lbs in the bed, try to get E range rated tires. If you have any desire to tow near the max weight or haul over 1000lbs, be a good idea to get rid of the twin-tube shocks and struts and upgrade to a quality mono-tube. The changes to these trucks that Ford to make them more refined on the streets, leaves much to desired when towing or hauling. While capable, just doesn't feel right IMO, when towing/hauling heavy loads.
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Old Jun 24, 2020 | 01:47 PM
  #25  
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Agree with others, first thing to check is tongue weight. You can also very easily add a friction sway bar without a full weight distribution system.
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Old Mar 27, 2022 | 03:46 PM
  #26  
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Not to be a tight wad but you bought one of the most expensive trailers available and balking at 500 bucks! I didn't bat an eye when I bought my ProPride hitch for over 3k to be as safe as I could towing my 40k trailer..
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Old Mar 27, 2022 | 09:06 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 45Colt
I tow a 3,500# camper fairly often and load the bed up with full coolers and all sorts camping gear. 19 crew cab 2.7L 4x4.

I too did not like to somewhat loose and flighty feel of the trailer behind me on the highway. Semi trucks passing at 80 would suck me over toward them. Little white knuckle at times.

First upgrade was a weight distribution hitch. Husky Centerline. No chains, very solid unit.This helped settle trailer down in terms of sway and crosswind significantly. Felt planted and secure behind us. I went with a 6K# rated solid bar unit.

Next issue was the constant bouncing bobbing of the rear end. It was enough to make my dog car sick and barf all over the back seat of the truck. Not cool. Read a lot of F-150 towing complaints and found the stock shocks are less than ideal.

Best solution for me was a set of remote reservoir rear shocks from Bilstein and 1.5" leaf spring block to retain the factory rake. I can say it's as about as good as it can get now. Very stable and secure on and off road. I may add shocks to the trailer for off road runs next.

Pics. Because well, everybody loves pictures.

That Husky Centerline hitch looks like they copied the Equal-i-zer hitch system.
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Old Mar 27, 2022 | 09:55 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by sledz
Not to be a tight wad but you bought one of the most expensive trailers available and balking at 500 bucks! I didn't bat an eye when I bought my ProPride hitch for over 3k to be as safe as I could towing my 40k trailer..
Who are you talking to -this thread was posted 2 years ago, not sure who you're pointing out without rereading the whole thing.
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