6000? Where did you find that? I'm still seeing the 5000 limit

 

One 4x4 tip: Assuming you can back it to a relatively straight line..... get lined up to where you will begin backing down the ramp. Once you are lined up, engage 4lo. This way, when you are ready to drive away you'll already be engaged and now have to risk wheel slip on the boat ramp, forcing a hard shift.

You shouldn't need 4x4 to get the trailer out of the water after launching the boat, but it will useful once the boat is back on the trailer when leaving for the day.

If you are new, probably a good idea to practice backing a trailer in empty parking lots. And make your first few lake days when it is less busy.

Make sure you are properly prepped too, meaning the boat is ready to leave the trailer when you back in, not then remembering you forgot to release the straps. Learn where the sweet spot is for the empty trailer to sit in the water to make loading go perfectly.
I purchased a used jetski a number of years back. I'd never launched a boat before that! The seller launched it during our test drive and indicated to me the trailer position 'in' the water. Take note of what works best and us that as your marker. Something like "The tire should be this visible. Or I can only see the top of this frame rail.

 

One more tip concerning 4x4, since you have a Lariat, you can just select 4A and leave it the whole time you are towing. That way you never have to remember to switch to 4Lo, it will automatically engage 4x4 if needed. I usually have mine in 4A anytime I am towing, and throughout the winter when driving regularly. You will not hurt anything by remaining in 4A.

4A (4x4 AUTO)* provides electronic control four-wheel drive with power delivered to the front and rear wheels, as required, for increased traction. This is appropriate for all on-road driving conditions, including dry road surfaces, but is especially useful on wet pavement, snow, dirt or gravel.

 

To clarify (to OP): 4a and 4lo are not the same. Yes, 4a will automatically engage 4x4 as the computer sees fit, however it won't utilize 4lo.

 

I appreciate all the insight on 4X4, but at this point I'm still attempting to figure out if my truck is able to pull the 6000lbs trailer.

Thank you to all those who responded!

 

I think Ford says 500 lbs tongue weight and 5000 lbs max towing unless you are using a weight distribution hitch if you have the tow package.
You will probably have @700 lbs tongue weight so a WDH should be used.
I tow our 6000 lbs travel trailer with a similar truck but I have 3:73 with the tow package. I use a WDH at it tows just fine.
You should know your tongue weight as it counts against your payload capacity. Your payload can be found on the driver door jamb sticker. If you take 4 people and gear while towing you could exceed your payload so do the math.

 

Usually boats are a little lighter on the tongue weight. In theory you should use a weight distribution hitch. Would I?? Maybe not.

 

Your truck with 53B will be rated for 6,000 lbs. I would be a liar if I said I never towed beyond that when I had my truck that was like yours.

Its not easy to find the 6,000 lbs number, and I dont know where to find it anymore. If you go strictly by the towing guide, you can easily assume it will tow the 7,600 lbs. And if you have good functional trailer brakes and a weight distribution hitch when needed, I would tow that much with your truck as the only real difference functionally is the front sway bar.

 

That whole frontal area of trailer thing is interesting. I never knew I needed to analyze my trailer aero before towing, I just hook up go. Works fine.

 

My boat/trailer is just under 7,000 pounds and the truck does perfectly fine, even when towing thru the hills of Missouri. It is extremely rare to see a WDH on a boat, for a number of reasons...but definitely NOT needed with your rig.
Ricktwuhk in particular as well as others nailed many things right on the head when it comes to launch ramp 'etiquette'; you don't EVER want to be "that guy" that simply can't back down the ramp straight or takes 57 attempts to do it. NEVER, ever occupy the ramp for more than a couple of minutes, in other words don't do all the loading of the boat at the ramp, that should have been done WELL in advance. Algae and moss are very common by late Spring and make a lot of ramps very slippery...not only for your rig but for YOU...I have seen people injured by slipping and falling in the ramp. Be aware of Zebra mussels and avoid with bare feet at ramps, those things will slice and dice you! Always use the parking brake but if the ramp is EXTREMELY slick, it might not do much to stop you from sliding down further than you might want. Wheel chocks are your friend as noted earlier. Similar protocol goes for retrieving the boat...don't be 'that guy' but it is ten times worse backing a trailer down without the boat on. If you have a tonneau cover, you will not be able to see the trailer very well if at all. If no cover on the bed, lower the tailgate MAKING SURE first of all that the trailer jack on the trailer is low enough to clear the tailgate when down. Invest in some of the trailer guides that attach to your trailer, either the permanent ones that bolt to the trailer frame or the little magnetic 'extend-a-ball' that Wally World sells.

But no, don't worry at all about your truck and its ability to tow...that at least is a non-issue.