Tires and Alignment Qs?
I'm running the 20" Goodyear Whatevers. I have 25K on the truck. Two of them are badly worn on the outsides, like bald. I changed out my suspension a while back and never did an alignment. It's likely the culprit. I knew it may cause an issue, but I took a chance. I'm stock ride height, so I thought I had a good chance of not having an issue.
Q1>What should I do today? I can buy two more Goodyears to replace the bad ones, rotate, do an alignment and live happily ever after ...
Or
Buy a new set of 4 and sell the two that are "OK".
Frankly, other than the poor wear pattern, I've had good luck with the Goodyears. Yeah, I know! I hate GY and I hate the tread pattern, but they ride fine and are "good" in the rain. Still, the grass is always greener . . . I guess I'd like something with better cornering. The GYs definitely plow in the corners. I drive 99% pavement/highway. I do 1% hard pack dirt and shale in summer, nothing crazy though. I definitely don't want those KO types. Sorry, I just don't need them and I'm sure they'd be noisy on my 400mi runs to camp.
Q2>I said I didn't do an alignment. I didn't do one because I figured I had a good shot of being OK because I didn't change ride height. Can anyone tell me what adjustments are available? In short, all cars are different and offer different adjustability. Camber, Caster and toe. ALL cars do Toe. Toe is basically what you get in an alignment these days. As for 4 wheel, BS. There's NO adjustment on 99% of rear wheels. Caster is rare. Camber is what I THINK I need, but most cars don't offer it any more. Does the F150?
TomJV
Q1>What should I do today? I can buy two more Goodyears to replace the bad ones, rotate, do an alignment and live happily ever after ...
Or
Buy a new set of 4 and sell the two that are "OK".
Frankly, other than the poor wear pattern, I've had good luck with the Goodyears. Yeah, I know! I hate GY and I hate the tread pattern, but they ride fine and are "good" in the rain. Still, the grass is always greener . . . I guess I'd like something with better cornering. The GYs definitely plow in the corners. I drive 99% pavement/highway. I do 1% hard pack dirt and shale in summer, nothing crazy though. I definitely don't want those KO types. Sorry, I just don't need them and I'm sure they'd be noisy on my 400mi runs to camp.
Q2>I said I didn't do an alignment. I didn't do one because I figured I had a good shot of being OK because I didn't change ride height. Can anyone tell me what adjustments are available? In short, all cars are different and offer different adjustability. Camber, Caster and toe. ALL cars do Toe. Toe is basically what you get in an alignment these days. As for 4 wheel, BS. There's NO adjustment on 99% of rear wheels. Caster is rare. Camber is what I THINK I need, but most cars don't offer it any more. Does the F150?
TomJV
Last edited by tomjv; Feb 21, 2018 at 06:30 PM.
You can check the toe yourself with two straight edges and a tape measure. Front of the tires should be closer than the rears about a 1/16 to 1/8. have to get the straight edges on a good part of the sidewalls so its even. Most likely they will adjust toe.
Just went through this with my installation of 6112 shocks Caster doesnt change except with ride height adjustments due to vehivle attitude.
You will change the toe and camber. The alignment tech took a few shortcuts and used ratchett straps and a hammer to move the lower a arms into place . Its absolutely necessary After watching him do it and seeing how little things move to take stuff out of wack I was amazed we ever get to drive them straight An alignment kit would be nice but ford sets up the stock alignment without it so it should hold after its moved a fraction of an inch.
You will change the toe and camber. The alignment tech took a few shortcuts and used ratchett straps and a hammer to move the lower a arms into place . Its absolutely necessary After watching him do it and seeing how little things move to take stuff out of wack I was amazed we ever get to drive them straight An alignment kit would be nice but ford sets up the stock alignment without it so it should hold after its moved a fraction of an inch.
My tires are wearing uneven with the outside 2" going bald.
Q1: Is it possible that only a toe adjustment could fix this?
Here's my take. It seems that I have too much positive camber.
Why? The stock suspension is soft and the truck drops into it, evening out the camber. My aftermarket setup is firm, so it supports the truck increasing +camber.
I'm thinking I'll get the kit and increase -camber a 1.5deg or so. Should make the car corner better too.
TomJV
FWIW, I had this same experience with other cars and fixed it the same way. I'm just trying not to assume things and just to conclusions too quick. I'm new to trucks.
I used to BEG the alignment shop to disregard the factory specs. He made me sign off on it. I used to TIP the mechanic as well. LOL.
Q1: Is it possible that only a toe adjustment could fix this?
Here's my take. It seems that I have too much positive camber.
Why? The stock suspension is soft and the truck drops into it, evening out the camber. My aftermarket setup is firm, so it supports the truck increasing +camber.
I'm thinking I'll get the kit and increase -camber a 1.5deg or so. Should make the car corner better too.
TomJV
FWIW, I had this same experience with other cars and fixed it the same way. I'm just trying not to assume things and just to conclusions too quick. I'm new to trucks.
I used to BEG the alignment shop to disregard the factory specs. He made me sign off on it. I used to TIP the mechanic as well. LOL.
Oh, another Q. I'm looking at the kits.
Turns out there are two kits available.
Ford Kit - Consisting of the entire bolt and acentric nuts. Priced over $100.
Moog kit - Consists of an eccentric nut/washer and back plate. The Moog kit comes with two pairs which allow for replacement of both lower control arm nuts. It's intended to do one side of the car, camber and caster. Basically, the installer removes the OEM nut(leaving the bolt in place) then installs the new back plate and nut/washer in it's place.
The Ford kit replaces the entire bolt. This is better because it allows for adjustment from both sides of the attachment. The Moog kit only allows adjustment from the outside. I don't know WHAT I think of that, or rather I DO. I don't like it. Further, I don't know how many bolts come with the Ford Kit, I assume 2, to do one side, making this route EXPENSIVE.
I've also read the Ford kit requires "drilling of the plate in the back" which sounds like a PITA.
Q - I'm not doing caster. Is there any reason I CAN'T use the 1 kit to do both sides, camber only? Moog kit. Ford kit=doubtful as both bolts are likely different dimensions.
TomJV
Turns out there are two kits available.
Ford Kit - Consisting of the entire bolt and acentric nuts. Priced over $100.
Moog kit - Consists of an eccentric nut/washer and back plate. The Moog kit comes with two pairs which allow for replacement of both lower control arm nuts. It's intended to do one side of the car, camber and caster. Basically, the installer removes the OEM nut(leaving the bolt in place) then installs the new back plate and nut/washer in it's place.
The Ford kit replaces the entire bolt. This is better because it allows for adjustment from both sides of the attachment. The Moog kit only allows adjustment from the outside. I don't know WHAT I think of that, or rather I DO. I don't like it. Further, I don't know how many bolts come with the Ford Kit, I assume 2, to do one side, making this route EXPENSIVE.
I've also read the Ford kit requires "drilling of the plate in the back" which sounds like a PITA.
Q - I'm not doing caster. Is there any reason I CAN'T use the 1 kit to do both sides, camber only? Moog kit. Ford kit=doubtful as both bolts are likely different dimensions.
TomJV
Last edited by tomjv; Mar 2, 2018 at 11:32 AM.






