Stumped
Thread Starter
5 Year Member
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 1,183
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From: San Angelo, TX
That's correct. The IWE's are normally engaged, and need a vacuum to disengage. This is by design so they actuate daily and keep the grease distributed and covering the teeth so they don't rust.
You may be correct, but keep in mind that you were checking under a condition in which the truck has the highest vacuum produced, closed throttle. As soon as you open the throttle up, you lose vacuum, and a leaking component can drop vacuum to the IWE enough that it doesn't fully disengage. If you were getting the noise only at times while driving, a bad IWE could still potentially be a matching diagnosis.
At any rate, you will know if you've got a bad wheel bearing once you slide the CV axle out of the hub. At that point, any noise or crunchy feeling can only be a failed wheel bearing. While in there, you will have the opportunity to inspect and clean the reluctor (tone ring) to hopefully fix that issue, and inspect the IWE as well, If the IWE looks good, borrow a vacuum pump and check that it holds a vacuum, then you'll have worked that out as well.
You may be correct, but keep in mind that you were checking under a condition in which the truck has the highest vacuum produced, closed throttle. As soon as you open the throttle up, you lose vacuum, and a leaking component can drop vacuum to the IWE enough that it doesn't fully disengage. If you were getting the noise only at times while driving, a bad IWE could still potentially be a matching diagnosis.
At any rate, you will know if you've got a bad wheel bearing once you slide the CV axle out of the hub. At that point, any noise or crunchy feeling can only be a failed wheel bearing. While in there, you will have the opportunity to inspect and clean the reluctor (tone ring) to hopefully fix that issue, and inspect the IWE as well, If the IWE looks good, borrow a vacuum pump and check that it holds a vacuum, then you'll have worked that out as well.
One thing that felt telling for me was that the grinding was still present when the solenoid was disconnected. Obviously not a tell-all, but I think it led to a good hypothesis after doing some troubleshooting following that video too.
Thanks for all your help, and everyone that commented. It was a huge help. Seeing those codes clear always feels good.
Last edited by tland4; Jan 6, 2021 at 09:07 PM.
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Joined: Aug 2018
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From: Kentucky
Looks like you were working on it while I was posting today. Glad to hear it was indeed just the bearing, and thanks for the follow-up!
I forgot most do not pull apart these integrated hubs to change out the bearing, you can't get an eye on the reluctor except through the sensor hole if you don't.
I forgot most do not pull apart these integrated hubs to change out the bearing, you can't get an eye on the reluctor except through the sensor hole if you don't.
Thread Starter
5 Year Member
Joined: Aug 2016
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From: San Angelo, TX
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2017
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From: NE
Long story short I had the exact same issue and sound with the same wheel on my '17 STX at around 80,000 miles. I took it to the dealer last spring and instead of getting it fixed they took it in on a trade with an offer I couldn't refuse for an XLT.
Thread Starter
5 Year Member
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 1,183
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From: San Angelo, TX
I love my truck and have no plans to trade it in.