Hello, I torqued my pro comp spline lugs (procomp alloy wheels) to 150lbs. (Hoping they use same torque as factory)
drove 50 miles and re torqued, I would say about 3 on each wheel moved the slightest before click. Another 500miles later (yesterday) I purchased a new torque wrench (didn't want to keep using neighbors) so I decided to give it a try. 3 wheels torqued just fine (again some moved slightly).
got to the 4th wheel and thought my damn new torque wrench took a **** because it moved like a 1/4 turn, so I said whoa let me go back and check 1 I just did.. click click (worked fine). Went back to 4th and said **** it lets see what happens, turns almost a 1/4 more before clicking. All 6 on 1 wheel almost did a half rotation before clicking.

Do I have a problem on my hand?

thank you in advance

 

Assuming that you properly cleaned the wheel mating surface. Assuming that the wheel was properly torqued to begin with. Assuming that you are in fact using the recommend torque from the wheel manufacturer. Assuming that you know how to properly use a torque wrench. I'd ask: Where did you buy the torque wrench? Would not be worried about stretch.

 

Well I just read 9 pages of the over torque thread and the last few post said something about anti sieze at 150lb is considered over torque. I hope I didn't mess them up, since I did clean with a wire brush and applied.
As far as being over torqued in the pass, I do not know as the wheels were removed and installed 3-4 times prior to me.
Also as far as using the torque wrench correctly, hahaha yes I know how to use 1.

edit: I used a husky 50-250 this last time. The 1st and 2nd torques were by a snap on thats used in a marine mechanic field, where they are calibrated often.

 

No offense, but putting any lubricant on a nut and torqueing to a dry spec falls under "Knowing how to properly use a torque wrench" and "Wheel properly torqued to begin with".

If you did lube and torque to dry spec then I would say that stretch is most definitely a risk. Wouldn't worry about it though unless racing or you inspect and see threads deformed. I would run an open back nut all the way down the stud and verify no binding near the hub. If the nut binds up even a little in the space between where the normally installed nut stops and the hub, replace the stud. Still not risk free, but probably not that bad either.

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Lube was on the neighbor, torqueing to 150 with the lube was on me, thinking lube would loosen easier so it should be just as tight. Is there any rule of thumb on specs with lube? Should it not be used? Sinking a open end nut by hand down to the hub.. are you referring to a steel stock lug nut?
Any specs on after market alloy?

thanks

 

The purpose of running a nut down the treads is that it can find a deformity that you don't see. Doesn't much matter what nut you uses so long as it isn't capped. You could have an issue and the nut not find it, but then again if may find it.

 

Dry and wet torque specs are different. If using anti-seize (or fill in the lube or wet product) then the torque specs go down 20-25% as a general rule but you need to know specifically for certain applications. Excellent advise so far in this thread on a cheap way to check your wheel studs.