To Replace or Not to Replace (Turbos/Manifolds)
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2016
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To Replace or Not to Replace (Turbos/Manifolds)
Hi,
I have a 2015 F150 3.5 ecoboost with 167K. This past summer I had my transmission replaced. Now I noticed that I have a small coolant leak on the driver side turbo on the backside. I believe it drips on the hot exhaust pipe below and it smells like something is burning in the cab of the truck. I was originally going to just try and replace the fitting and call it a day, but now I am leaning on having both turbos and manifolds replaced. I can hear the passenger manifold rattle at first but once it warms up the noise goes away. I know for sure the "one" manifold bolt is broken off. The truck runs good. I was quoted $5k to replace both turbos and manifolds.
Do I get them replaced with 167K miles? I have never had my timing chain replaced. No reason to, with no symptoms. My biggest fear is that I replace the turbos and manifolds, and then a short time after that the timing chain needs to be replaced.
What do I do? Replace or sell the truck?
I have a 2015 F150 3.5 ecoboost with 167K. This past summer I had my transmission replaced. Now I noticed that I have a small coolant leak on the driver side turbo on the backside. I believe it drips on the hot exhaust pipe below and it smells like something is burning in the cab of the truck. I was originally going to just try and replace the fitting and call it a day, but now I am leaning on having both turbos and manifolds replaced. I can hear the passenger manifold rattle at first but once it warms up the noise goes away. I know for sure the "one" manifold bolt is broken off. The truck runs good. I was quoted $5k to replace both turbos and manifolds.
Do I get them replaced with 167K miles? I have never had my timing chain replaced. No reason to, with no symptoms. My biggest fear is that I replace the turbos and manifolds, and then a short time after that the timing chain needs to be replaced.
What do I do? Replace or sell the truck?
No fart cans allowed
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 4,339
Likes: 2,362
From: MO
You have a known reliable entity in your truck and you know how it's been maintained. I would likely make the choice to replace versus a big expenditure on a new vehicle that could have warranty issues or be a lemon. It really boils down to making an educated guess on your part.
We just spent $2600 on the wife's 126k mile 2014 Charger to fix hydraulic motor mounts that just started leaking, a minor oil pan leak, and a bad rear axle CV joint. Other than a new oil filter/oil cooler base (bad OEM design, 5 engineering changes since the one that was on our car) I had to change last year, it's the first money we have had to spend on it other than routine maintenance and normal wear and tear.
We just spent $2600 on the wife's 126k mile 2014 Charger to fix hydraulic motor mounts that just started leaking, a minor oil pan leak, and a bad rear axle CV joint. Other than a new oil filter/oil cooler base (bad OEM design, 5 engineering changes since the one that was on our car) I had to change last year, it's the first money we have had to spend on it other than routine maintenance and normal wear and tear.
Trying to figure it out!
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 2,992
Likes: 921
From: Ft Worth, Texas
If the turbos aren't giving you issues, why replace?
I ran the leaky manifold for about 100k miles and just replaced it with a set of Full Race - I actually had 2 broken studs.
$5,000 is a lot of money to throw at it but as BadAV said, if everything else is good that's a lot less than a car payment for a year. If you're mechanically inclined and can be without your truck a few days, start the job on a Saturday morning and you'll be done by Sunday evening.
I would suggest the Full Race AN water lines, they'll never leak again. I think they even have a kit with all the parts to do the manifolds, water lines and turbos (gaskets and all) and upgraded turbos if you want to go that route. https://www.full-race.com/full-race-...iner-turbo-kit
I ran the leaky manifold for about 100k miles and just replaced it with a set of Full Race - I actually had 2 broken studs.
$5,000 is a lot of money to throw at it but as BadAV said, if everything else is good that's a lot less than a car payment for a year. If you're mechanically inclined and can be without your truck a few days, start the job on a Saturday morning and you'll be done by Sunday evening.
I would suggest the Full Race AN water lines, they'll never leak again. I think they even have a kit with all the parts to do the manifolds, water lines and turbos (gaskets and all) and upgraded turbos if you want to go that route. https://www.full-race.com/full-race-...iner-turbo-kit
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2016
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My other thought, I saw a YouTube video of a guy replacing the back turbo fitting, the block fitting and water line for the driverside without removing the turbo. I was thinking of getting the full race water lines and start by just replacing the fittings and line to see if that will take care of the leak and smell.
Was the full race water lines easy to work with?
Was the full race water lines easy to work with?
Trying to figure it out!
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 2,992
Likes: 921
From: Ft Worth, Texas
My other thought, I saw a YouTube video of a guy replacing the back turbo fitting, the block fitting and water line for the driverside without removing the turbo. I was thinking of getting the full race water lines and start by just replacing the fittings and line to see if that will take care of the leak and smell.
Was the full race water lines easy to work with?
Was the full race water lines easy to work with?
I haven't done the driver's side yet but even the rear fitting on passenger side was not very difficult to do. I can't imagine the OEM style being any easier to do since you have the same amount of room to work with.
My factory set weren't leaking but since I was replacing manifold(s) I knew I'd be disturbing them and the chances were they'd leak, I figured I'd go with something that will not leak in the future even if I have to remove the turbo(s) again for whatever reason - like installing a large set.
Member
Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 32
Likes: 8
From: Utah
I’ve got a 2015 f150 3.5 ecoboost 170k miles. I replaced exhaust manifolds, turbo coolant/oil lines, coolant fittings, and turbo oil inlet filter. Had 2 exhaust manifold bolts break. I think procrastinating this repair too long can hurt the catalytic converter.
I paid for just labor at a shop I trust and supplied all parts. Parts and labor was around $2k. I sacrificed warranty to save money, but supplied OEM and BD Diesel’s entire exhaust manifold kit.
I HIGHLY RECOMMEND BD DIESEL . I haven’t had any issues. My turbos are still original and I do 3.5-4.5k mile oil change intervals. I got this all fixed done at 160k miles.
if I were you I’d just wait till the turbos give out to replace them. If you’re on original valve covers, it’s likely coming up very soon. I changed mine myself with aluminum valve covers from Amazon.
I paid for just labor at a shop I trust and supplied all parts. Parts and labor was around $2k. I sacrificed warranty to save money, but supplied OEM and BD Diesel’s entire exhaust manifold kit.
I HIGHLY RECOMMEND BD DIESEL . I haven’t had any issues. My turbos are still original and I do 3.5-4.5k mile oil change intervals. I got this all fixed done at 160k miles.
if I were you I’d just wait till the turbos give out to replace them. If you’re on original valve covers, it’s likely coming up very soon. I changed mine myself with aluminum valve covers from Amazon.