I have a 2015 F-150 supercrew 4WD that I just finished putting an Icon Stage 4 leveling kit underneath. Prior to the lift, like not long after I bought the truck, I had removed the rear block to lower the back end, because it was so high. I never measured it, I could just see it, so I can't quantify it. After 5 years, the rear leafs settled some and the truck was just about dead level without the block. So with the 2 -2.63" coil overs, I put the rear block back in and put a 1" spacer on top of it. I can see some rake and decided to measure top of the fender to the ground, thinking the wheel wells are the same. The difference between front and rear is 1.75". Mr. Dumbass didn't measure the height before the lift, so he doesn't know how much lift he gained. I was thinking 2", but I really don't want it any higher than the current setting, which for these coil-overs is an the minimum lift height. I don't haul anything that heavy that warrants that much rake, although I'm sure it's less than the truck had when new. Four passengers and say 300 lbs. of gear in the bed is probably the heavier loads I'll have. I have a utility trailer I use to tow a quad, but it's not that heavy. I'm thinking without the 1" spacer I'll have .75 rake, which seems acceptable to me. What are y'all's experieance relative to the rear ride height?

Here is the current stance of the truck.




New wheels and tires are the next step. The PVD chrome wheels are peeling around the outer edge near the seat, which I'm sure will only get worse by installing tires. Icon recommends a 33" x 11.5" tire, but I see some are running a 34" tire. What's the real world clearance issues. While I'm no longer a dedicated off-roader, I can get in over my head from time to time.

 

Is it safe to stack spacers beneath a leaf spring pack?
I didn't know it was possible.

 

It's taboo to stack blocks on the front end of a leaf spring front axle, and probably not a good idea for the rear, but 1" is pretty thin. I already had it in my possession and used it to see where I was.on the rear stance. I bought a 3" block initially for this install, but figured it was going to be more rake then wanted and it definitely would have been. I probably should have just used the stock block from the get go. My truck only has 25k miles on it and in doing the install realized how bad the front brakes and rotor look, so it's going back under the knife soon enough..I'm just not sure if I want to use the stock block or the 1", but I doubt you'd notice 1/4" difference between the two on this long wheelbase.

 

 

Awesome! I hope you love your new suspension! I just ordered a set of King 2.5 front and rear shocks. I've been obsessing about suspension for the past few months. ha.
So my information is based on my application, but it seems like it will translate well to your application.
-About 1 inch of rake is a good benchmark to shoot for.
-After the new shock install give it about 1,000 miles for the shocks to break-in, then make your adjustments. You can make adjustments as you go, but you might as well wait until the new suspension has had a chance to settle.
-You can most likely adjust the height of the front shocks without uninstalling them. You should be able to adjust them while still on the truck.
-The stock rear block and a 2" front lift will give you about a 1" rake.
Right now I have a completely stock rear and a 2" level spacer in front and the measurements to the peak of the wheel wells are: Front 39.25" Rear 40.125"

 

My measurements were 39.0" and 40.75" with the stock 275/55-20s with 60% to 70% treadwear, so removing the 1" block should give me .75" of rake. I did the front first and before I moved to the back, I did look at the stance fresh off the jack stands with no blocks in the rear and appeared to be just about level judging by the line of the top of the bed with my brick wall. I didn't think to take measurements. I thought about settling on the front too and has me questioning if I shouldn't just remove the stock 1 1/4" block instead, and leaning toward that direction. I know shocks don't provide lift, but there is so much pressure in the rear shocks, that I have to think it's contributing to some marginal amount of lift.

I think I'm going to go with Toyo Open Country ATs in 285/60-20. According to the leveling sticky thread, it seems there are no trimming and fitment issues associated with them with those running that size. I plan on getting the XD779 Badlands in chrome in 9x20 with the +19mm offset. My initial plans were go with 275/60-20 in the P version for better ride quality, but I know I'll be happier with wider and taller.

My initial ride thoughts are positive. There's no shortage of crap roads to test this suspension. It's stiffer than stock, but I don't consider it harsh. They give the truck a more planted feel over bad road surfaces at speed. I think the stock components were a little too soft, especially with 5 years of age. I do note the loss of caster. I figured Icon would have built some compensation in the upper control arms, but apparently not. I haven't had it aligned yet, however. Waiting on the tire install which was the Ford dealer's recommendation.

 

I think Icon uses the delta joint upper control arms which seem to be pretty good, but there isn't any adjustability from how I understand it. I ordered the SPC upper control arms. Here's a good video if you're interested in the subject, it also talks about how the SPC upper control arms allow a bigger tire without having to cut into fenders to make extra space.

 

Thanks for that. It's just going to take a little getting used to. I'm not aligned yet and the upper ball joint is super tight. It's just a slower return to center that feels different than what I've been accustomed to for the last five years.

Nice looking truck, but lift, wheel and tire specs might help with my question. That's more rake than I would want. All that exposed white in the rear wheel well drove me crazy. Ford has a plastic insert that will kill that look. It's a pretty simple install.

 

I've been pouring over a lot of the pics and specs and I may be looking at this all wrong. It's obvious to me that Ford has an overload leaf in the spring pack. I think I need to figure on having no rake with enough weight in the bed to make contact with the overload leaf. A few bags of top soil should help me find that point. I'm not going any higher out back if that results in negative rake. I'll update this when I get to that point.

 

Rumor has it that 200-300lbs in the bed of the F150 is the butter zone for ride quality.