Question on leveling kit
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 31,752
Likes: 12,571
From: Nowhereville, Barton City Michigan
I’ve torn apart the front end more times then I’d like to admit.
I think it’s easier to follow these instructions which don’t have you touching the control arm bolts
https://performanceparts.ford.com/do...5AA_052220.PDF
I think it’s easier to follow these instructions which don’t have you touching the control arm bolts
https://performanceparts.ford.com/do...5AA_052220.PDF
I have yet to pull the LCA, chances of screwing up the alignment is pretty easy, camber/caster could both be thrown off. With the method @WVMoose and I use, about the only realignment needed is toein. If you can't get to an alignment shop quickly, it makes sense to do this, the toein is only affected minimally, so at least you can drive the thing, until you get a chance. Throwing off the camber/caster would wear your tires quicker than the toein.
This is a good video showing how to engage teeth, and torque axle nut. Very easy, no need to fear anything.

I have replaced my shocks and hubs there is zero need to touch the LCA.
When I install driveshaft I make sure the IWE is disengaged. I turn on the engine to provide the vacuum to it. I know people do it without supplying the vacuum but it's the safest way to do it.
When I install driveshaft I make sure the IWE is disengaged. I turn on the engine to provide the vacuum to it. I know people do it without supplying the vacuum but it's the safest way to do it.
Last edited by babock; Jul 1, 2023 at 07:15 PM.
The Mooseman and I have done this numerous times, I can't really recall either how many times. It's not rocket science reinstalling the axle nut, although there is a bit easier way than what those instructions show., Trick is, to make sure those IWE teeth are meshed. Or, if you want, pull a vacuum on the IWE to get it in the disengaged position, stick the half shaft in, then torque the axle nut.
I have yet to pull the LCA, chances of screwing up the alignment is pretty easy, camber/caster could both be thrown off. With the method @WVMoose and I use, about the only realignment needed is toein. If you can't get to an alignment shop quickly, it makes sense to do this, the toein is only affected minimally, so at least you can drive the thing, until you get a chance. Throwing off the camber/caster would wear your tires quicker than the toein.
This is a good video showing how to engage teeth, and torque axle nut. Very easy, no need to fear anything.
makuloco IWE REplacementvBDPEZc
I have yet to pull the LCA, chances of screwing up the alignment is pretty easy, camber/caster could both be thrown off. With the method @WVMoose and I use, about the only realignment needed is toein. If you can't get to an alignment shop quickly, it makes sense to do this, the toein is only affected minimally, so at least you can drive the thing, until you get a chance. Throwing off the camber/caster would wear your tires quicker than the toein.
This is a good video showing how to engage teeth, and torque axle nut. Very easy, no need to fear anything.

makuloco IWE REplacementvBDPEZc
The only thing to be aware of is the axle nut can be installed with the IWE not engaged so if you
smoke that nut down and drive it, you’ll possibly destroy the IWE.
the instructions I posted have you measure the exposed thread to ensure the IWE is engaged. It’s not as hard as people make it out and if you aren’t sure of yourself enough to install the IWE you probably shouldn’t be doing suspension work…and I say that with love

godspeed
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 31,752
Likes: 12,571
From: Nowhereville, Barton City Michigan
Everyone has their own way of doing anything. I, myself, have found that by removing the axle nut, you gain quite a bit of room to squiggle a strut in and out. Especially if you've added spacers, or a coilover level. I've done quite a few of these things, and it just seems easier to do that.
The factory service manual tells you to make sure the IWE is NOT engaged when installing the driveshaft by supplying a vacuum source to the IWE. I just use the engine for that vacuum source.
Last edited by babock; Jul 1, 2023 at 07:18 PM.
Everyone has their own way of doing anything. I, myself, have found that by removing the axle nut, you gain quite a bit of room to squiggle a strut in and out. Especially if you've added spacers, or a coilover level. I've done quite a few of these things, and it just seems easier to do that.

Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 31,752
Likes: 12,571
From: Nowhereville, Barton City Michigan
Do you get vacuum right away on startup? I "thought" Ford introduced a delay in allowing vacuum to the IWE's somewhere in 2018 build. The truck has to be driven about .5 mile for the solenoid to be energized. Could have been 2019, and some trucks dating back have had that TSB performed, I know my 2017 did.
Do you get vacuum right away on startup? I "thought" Ford introduced a delay in allowing vacuum to the IWE's somewhere in 2018 build. The truck has to be driven about .5 mile for the solenoid to be energized. Could have been 2019, and some trucks dating back have had that TSB performed, I know my 2017 did.










