jetchaser

I want to add 2 LED lights to my Bull Bar and have a switch under the dash for control. I would like to have this on a circuit tied to the ignition switch so the lights don't work when the truck is off. I purchased one of these wiring kits from Amazon. Where should I get the power for these lights? Would a "add-a-circuit fuse kit" work for something like this? Not sure how much the 2 LED lights will draw for amps. Obviously there is a fuse in the wiring kit purchased from Amazon listed below.

Bluegrass

There are some spare fuse positions in the module behind the passenger side kick panel that could be accessed.
I don't know which ones without looking it up.

52merc

This is how I would wire it up. I'm not sure how your kit is wired up but you have all the parts you need are in the kit except an Add-A-Fuse. I would pull power from BCM Fuse-35 (5 A) which is Ignition powered using an Add-A-Fuse. I would pull the power for the LEDs from the battery with the inline fuse from the kit. The switch LED can be grounded anywhere close to where it is mounted. The relay ground (86) can be grounded close to where you mount the relay.

Barry_Vee

Very similar to above. This controls driving lights, (and ditch lights), Wired like this you can’t run the battery down. And with the switch on, your new LEDs automatically go on/off with the high beams.

Ignore the tap to my ditch light controls

mrv99

The passenger kick panel fuse panel m has a bunch of open fuses. Some are ignition based and others are not. I wired my radar detector and dash cam very simply using the empty available fuses in the panel.

There should be the ability for a pass through the firewall because the raptor comes prewired in that exact location

jetchaser

Thanks for the feedback. I think my wiring harness is too simple. It just has a power and ground that hook directly to the battery. I need a wire harness with a separate power control to the relay.

jetchaser

This is not the exact kit, but similar. All the power comes from the battery which makes me think the system/relay is HOT all the time. I'm afraid if I tie that power source to the fuse box with a "add-a-circuit)---this might be too much.

Bluegrass

I am in the middle of the same type of addition but for a different purpose.
You must measure the DC current draw by one Light so you know what your doing for >total current draw< when two are taking power from an existing circuit and what that circuit is capable of, without being overloaded.
Taking power direct from the battery only needs series fuse protection at the battery of about 10% over for fuse rating, to be sure a groundout fault does not burn the truck down.
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I do ground switching to the lights and a small high resistance relay winding with the fuse in the hot side. No hot side (manual) switching. The ground switch I do is the ground side of the lights so there is no hot wires to deal with through the firewall.
My switch will be a double pole >center off< double (throw) to permit manual turn on or auto switching later if I should decide to do that function later.
The Auto switching will take signal off the driving lights so the Aux Light will auto OFF on high beam.
I can have it either way when traffic is light and late at night to see Deer more quickly farther off to the sides.
To many close calls and hit one lightly already and only lost a blown driving light lamp from the shock.
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Something not done so far by others is I mounted my Flood lights behind the front fender mud guards up close under the running boards angled forward. They are low to the ground at that location and cannot be seen to blind oncoming traffic and have protection from dirt build up and constant water from the wheel. They have been mounted and has already been proven to stay clean and hardly noticeable unless back away from the side of the truck to see them. These lights can be turned on manually and offer more temporary side lighting when needed.
I have the same lights as Backup under the rear bumper powered from the center pin of the 7 pin trailer socket that powers up in reverse without any connection to the rest of the system.

The added fuse block and relay is mounted right alongside the battery in the open space behind the windshield washer fluid for short connection to the + battery seminal. Ground is where you find it.