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Power cable routing to windshield cam - any ideas?
I've got one from a previous vehicle that hangs from a suction mount by the rear-view mirror. I'm still trying to figure out the best way to cleanly route the power cable on the F150 so that it's mostly hidden.
One end is a 12V cigarette plug adapter that puts out 5V. The end that goes to the cam is a mini USB. I'd prefer to not use the 12V outlet that's next to the 120V on the passenger side as that would stick out some. Unfortunately, the cable isn't long enough to route it from the rear seat 12V outlet. I might end up getting a long USB to mini cable and use one of the USB ports at the console since that would provide the right voltage and not be as obtrusive.
I'd like to route it behind the glove box, under the interior cover on the A pillar then tucked under the upper edge of the passenger side of the windshield. I've taken a look at it, but I'm not sure how to best to gain access behind the glovebox and then inside the A pillar interior trim.
If you run it through the A pillar, remember to route it BEHIND the air bag located there. This way, in an accident, the cable and camera don't become projectiles.
You can always splice into the cigarette lighter harness in the dash, install a lighter splitter, and then plug the cable into that and route it up to the camera. This is what I did in a Civic a long time ago to power a GPS.
I've also started thinking of maybe getting a simple 5ft mini USB female-to-male extension and using the 12V rear outlet. That would avoid the potential problem I might encounter using the USB port which is that the truck might view the camera as a mass storage device. I'd then have to buy a USB data blocker so it would get power only.
Does anyone know how the 12V outlets function in relation to the ignition system? Do they give power only when the key is in and turned? For a given time after you shut it all down?
BestBuy has a control module that's intended to work with dashcams. Price was $49 CDN when I bought mine. It shuts off power to the camera after a selectable time delay and comes with a cigarette socket for the cameras power cord. It's called Power Management Protection and is made by Mobile Concepts, Model PMP-U.
Does anyone know how the 12V outlets function in relation to the ignition system? Do they give power only when the key is in and turned? For a given time after you shut it all down?
To power my dashcam, I ran the wire from it along the headliner to the A-pillar. Down the A-pillar, behind the airbag, on the passenger side. From there, I dropped into the side of the dash through that small plastic endcap that is easy to remove. After getting in there, I let the cable drop straight down to the passenger kick panel. Behind the kick panel is a fuse box, which is where I got the power by using an add-a-circuit on a keyed fuse. Easy and it turns on/off with the truck. No exposed wires. I did have to connect the add-a-circuit to a cigarette lighter plug...also called a power point....so I wouldn’t have to cut any wires. I bought the cigarette lighter thing at my local auto parts store.
I ran my wire down the right side A pillar to the fuse panel in the passenger foot well. I then used an ATR Micro2 add-a-fuse in #36 which is switched with the ignition. To the right of the panel is a convenient stud & nut to use for ground.
It has two usb outlets, so I used double sided foam tape to attach the 2nd port under the glove box for passengers to have another place to charge stuff.
I ran my wire down the right side A pillar to the fuse panel in the passenger foot well. I then used an ATR Micro2 add-a-fuse in #36 which is switched with the ignition. To the right of the panel is a convenient stud & nut to use for ground. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OZFNJI6...iglink20295-20
It has two usb outlets, so I used double sided foam tape to attach the 2nd port under the glove box for passengers to have another place to charge stuff.
I basically did the same thing, but used the single usb version.
This may be a stupid question, but I'm leery about airbags: Do you/can you/should you pop off the A-pillar trim to run the wire, or is that something one should not do? If so, how do you insure that the wire runs behind the airbag?
This may be a stupid question, but I'm leery about airbags: Do you/can you/should you pop off the A-pillar trim to run the wire, or is that something one should not do? If so, how do you insure that the wire runs behind the airbag?
the A-pillar trim piece is held on by 2 screws hidden on the grab handles. Pop the covers, remove the screws, and slide the cover upwards and toward you. Once it is off, you’ll see the airbag rolled up there. It is very easy to run the wire behind it. Once you see it with the cover off, you notice how easy it is.
the A-pillar trim piece is held on by 2 screws hidden on the grab handles. Pop the covers, remove the screws, and slide the cover upwards and toward you. Once it is off, you’ll see the airbag rolled up there. It is very easy to run the wire behind it. Once you see it with the cover off, you notice how easy it is.
Thanks. The last time I dealt with an airbag it was to change the cruise control switches on my 2000 Explorer steering wheel. From everything I read, the wheel airbag was just slightly less likely to go off than a Claymore anti-personnel device. (Which it rather resembles but with a Ford logo where it would say "This side toward enemy.")
I hadn't tried to dis-assemble an A-pillar yet and was just wondering. (And my wife is out running errands so I wouldn't be able to check until late, late tonight.)
03-30-2018, 01:59 PM
Power cable routing to windshield cam - any ideas?
