truckerhat

I've never tested the amperage, but I can guarantee from personal experience that it will jump start the 2.7L ecoboost over and over again with the battery disconnected - isn't that what you're hoping to do?

I couldn't care less if the amperage is as-advertised as long as it does the job. As another poster mentioned, they use the highest possible numbers for advertising. DeWalt 20 volt tools aren't 20 volts under load, but they're still good tools. Same idea here.

Lare

Agreed. It SHOULD be as simple as there being a standard rating and knowing what that number is for a particular engine.

Yes indeed. I'll be buying one of the ones that you helpful people have listed as having tested and seen that it works. Yours is pretty high on my list.

Jimsmith

Have you tried dabbsson's portable power station?
I bought one recently it can do pretty much everything from charging my electronics to jump start my car , and to but it at discounted price use dabbsson voucher code offered by reecoupons.

Bluegrass

All, remember that a run down battery takes power from the Jumper at the same time the start circuit under cranking takes power.
Its all a matter of total load resistances connected in parallel to the Jumper Battery..
Two resistances in parallel of un-equal values results in a total of (less) than the smaller value.
The math of it is R bat 1 x R bat 2 divided by R1 bat + R2 bat.
Example: R1 20, R2 30.
20 X 30 = 600.
20 + 30 = 40.
600 / 40 = 15 total load resistance. Not 20 or 30 or even close to the value of either resistance.
When cranking begins the total load resistance goes even lower and Current flow goes higher out of the Jumper Batt..
.
Actual Current to the total load can be twice what is normal, under some circumstances.
This is where the Jumper has to have at least double the normal start current capacity or more to cover the worst cases encountered and includes low ambient temp. starts..
Good luck.

Mesamav

I have 2 of the cheapy Chinese knockoffs. Works great. I've started Cummins diesels with it. No problem at all.
Find one that works for you and keep it close.
It's save my bacon many times.

artsr2002

I've bought several over the years from scAmazon. Each has worked fine. No issues turning over the truck. Carry one in the back seat pocket in case I need it or I can assist someone else.

Jersey Jim

I realize this thread is 4 years old, but if I read it recently, then maybe someone else could use this info. 7 or so years ago I bought a Noco Genius, (GB70) jump pack. At the tme it was the 3rd largest of the 4 they offered. I've been SO impressed with thus compact yet powerful pack. It even started our Triton V10 engine like a new battery in the motorhome that wouldn't even "click" after parked for the winter. After too many summers carrying in a hot vehicle, it finally went bad. After taking if apart, I saw that 2 of the 3 lithium polymer flat cells were swollen and puffy. I replaced this $200 pack with a $38 3-cell pack that even outperforms the noco. (Although had to buy a 2-pack of this size). I used a 3-cell RC racing battery pack, with 5500 mAh rating, opposed to the noco 5000 mAh rating. The 2 packs have the same "120C" burst/pulse discharge rating. This spec is the key to a good jump pack. RC packs are commonly offered in 35C, 50C, 80C, 100C and the highest 120C rating. This means that for short periods like 30 seconds at a time, a 5.5 Ah pack can safely discharge almost 700 amps. The Noco with slightly smaller battery was rated at 2000 amps peak. Both battery packs have 12 AWG wire exiting the pack. I installed "EC8" RC car/drone connectors on both the jumper cables (removed from the dead Noco), and the battery pack. This is the highest rated RC connector for the RC industry, and accepts 8AWG wire. And although Noco & I both used 11.1 volt packs (nominal), they fully charge to 12.6 volts (3 cells times 4.2V). I used "ZEE" batteries from Amazon. They seem like leaders in RC packs. The ZEE pack comes with a small charge connector & wires exiting the pack for using a balanced charger. I also bought a 120 volt RC charger for $8.99 with charge ports for a 2-cell & 3-cell packs. So for $38, you can outperform a great Noco jump pack, just without all the bells & whistles, safeties, built-in light, power ports, etc. And is way more compact just using a 3-cell pack. Just be sure to use packs with a "120C" discharge rating. Again, the specs stamped right on the Noco battery for the 3rd largest model, was 3-cell, 11.1v, 5000 mAh and 120C. It also had 12 Gauge wires leaving the pack. I opted to be able to disconnect my larger gauge Noco cables from the pack with a high amperage yet compact connector because of using no safety circuits like reverse polarity protection, etc. like Noco does. And watch high heat, like over 110-120F which is typical in a closed up vehicle in summer. Heat is a battery killer! And the RC pack is WAY more compact than the already compact Noco, because it's just the battery pack.


Before changing EC5 connector from factory with EC8.