I noticed a paint chip on the back of my tailgate today... are these easy to repair on aluminum?

I have to take it into a local body shop next week to get my painted rear bumper fixed and was wondering if this was worth mentioning while it's there.

Not sure how it happened - but I just washed it this pat weekend so it had to of been recent. There's a smaller one to the left of it too.

 

Paint chip repair is no different on aluminum

 

Perfect thanks!

 

mbullock. Having seen your posts, and pictures of your work. I have much respect of your knowledge on this subject. I have a similar chip and purchased the touch-up pen from the dealer that has the base coat and clear coat.

I have read the instructions, and done a little research on the best how-to do this. But have not attempted it yet.

How would you apply this for a chip like the one in the OP?

 

A bit off-topic but I to have the touch up pen from the dealer and the clear coat either sucks or I'm not doing it correct. The clear coat is really obvious (shows the streak from the foam brush) to the point I no longer apply the clear coat when touching up. The paint holds well, even after washing it. However, if I try to touch up the same spot again, it takes off the old coat (I was trying to level out the chip to even it out with the surface).

 

I don't like the touch up pens - other than for application of the paint itself.

But I instead buy bottle of paint with the brush in it - and I don't use the brush.

I use these micro-dabbers - think tiny q tips. came in a box of 100 for some 2.50 or such. Much finer and I think better control.

I also used something of a kit called Langka - there is another version Dr Color Chip - similar idea but they sell you paint also - and I don't trust it.

So I buy paint that I know is the same - in a bottle. Then with a rubber pencil eraser I clean the chip site. (loose paint on edges, any grime, sand etc). Then Clean the site with rubbing alcohol. (side note I often do this after I've washed the car)

once dry I dab the paint in to fill.

let cure for some hours (usually 2 or so - no more than 4).

Then the langka kit has softener chemical that you put on a firm cloth (cotton) and in some cases a plastic card (for flat spots). The idea is you will buff the spot with the chemical so as to level off where you dabbed in.

Thus filling - and then leveling the color of the chip you fill.

works great and you then want to wait a few more hours to coat with a wax or something.

Kicker - I don't know how well that will match on something with a tint coat - like ruby red or the white platnium

 

It's a lacquer paint, which dissolves itself. Lacquer on lacquer melts and bonds together.

I just got a tube of Motorcraft touchup and thought I was opening the clear coat correctly, nope I was wrong. Going to attempt a repair on some really screwed up clear coat that peeled off the base after rock salt chipped the paint. Rock salt, thats a first ever for me.

 

There's really no way to touch up a chip to have it look mint. Best case is to have it look less horrible.


Less is more in my opinion. Do small amounts and build up. Leave some room for the clear. Not sure why they still sell those kits. They are lacquer based as mentioned above. Which is not the same as the paint on the vehicle. Which is water-based with urethane clear coat. It's also why they usually don't match very well.

 

Ah, lacquer, that explains it. And as for the confusing bottle design, the first time I opened the bottle, it made a mess.

 

Dr. Colorchip works the best for me. An old time painter told me the best way to apply lacquer touch-up was to use the torn end of a match (torn from matchbook) and never to use the brush.