Need Help- Leveling Kit Issues
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yes where the cv passes through the hub and a castle nut goes on the end. Dealer said to never put an impact gun on those. That shop better pay up
By the way I spoke with ReadyLift and the kit I had is perfectly alright to use. He said because the frame mount locations are different I would only get 1.75" lift. The new kits will give a full 2". I'm perfectly happy with my 1.75" results
By the way I spoke with ReadyLift and the kit I had is perfectly alright to use. He said because the frame mount locations are different I would only get 1.75" lift. The new kits will give a full 2". I'm perfectly happy with my 1.75" results
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Joined: Mar 2015
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If I were a betting man, I'd say that your installer did not drop the lower arm and possibly didn't take out the CV axle when installing it.
Go back to the installing shop, talk to the actual installer and ask how he installed it. He probably tried to shortcut it.
Go back to the installing shop, talk to the actual installer and ask how he installed it. He probably tried to shortcut it.
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It would be physically impossible to install a level without removing the CV on the 15s. Also, the lower arm doesn't need to be removed.
So many things could go wrong with the CV and IWE. These trucks aren't taking well to leveling. The CV angles are questionable and if you jack your truck up, when the suspension droops out the kuckle at th ball joint uses the coil spring as a bump stop...
So many things could go wrong with the CV and IWE. These trucks aren't taking well to leveling. The CV angles are questionable and if you jack your truck up, when the suspension droops out the kuckle at th ball joint uses the coil spring as a bump stop...
Last edited by Jarrett H; Apr 7, 2015 at 08:32 AM.
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I'm just going by what the man at AutoSpring said when I questioned him about it, but he said to ensure that you don't destroy parts in the IWE, you absolutely do have to. Not saying that you can't do it and possibly get away with it at times, but to be sure you don't damage it. You must unbolt the lower arm.
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I'm just going by what the man at AutoSpring said when I questioned him about it, but he said to ensure that you don't destroy parts in the IWE, you absolutely do have to. Not saying that you can't do it and possibly get away with it at times, but to be sure you don't damage it. You must unbolt the lower arm.
The only reason one would remove the lower arm is to make it easier to get the top mount with the spacer in the coil bucket, it would impossible to do this with the kuckle attatched because the lines aren't long enough.
Secondhand knowledge from possible a sales rep at a company that makes the cheapest leveling kits on the planet, I would take with a grain of salt.
Last edited by Jarrett H; Apr 7, 2015 at 08:40 AM.
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The wheel bearing isn't mounted in the lower control arm, it has no affect on the IWE. The knuckle is removed with the IWE and hung to the side to protect the lines. Once the strut is installed, the lower arm is jacked up and both the knuckle and upper arm are installed. If you've installed them, you would know this.
The only reason one would remove the lower arm is to make it easier to get the top mount with the spacer in the coil bucket, it would impossible to do this with the kuckle attatched because the lines aren't long enough.
Secondhand knowledge from possible a sales rep at a company that makes the cheapest leveling kits on the planet, I would take with a grain of salt.
The only reason one would remove the lower arm is to make it easier to get the top mount with the spacer in the coil bucket, it would impossible to do this with the kuckle attatched because the lines aren't long enough.
Secondhand knowledge from possible a sales rep at a company that makes the cheapest leveling kits on the planet, I would take with a grain of salt.
Wow. Maybe a communication error on my part, but what I was referring to is how some "monkeys" may try to install the strut. Although I could, I won't go into an argument as to who has the most mechanical prowess. I am fully aware of where the wheel bearing, castle nut and IWE assembly is. If every single installer is removing the CV axle, how do you suppose that they are being damaged (other than over-torqueing the castle nut)? I will tell you how. Once they have the strut attached on the upper side, they are pulling, prying, etc... to get the lower control arm low enough to accept the lower section of the strut into it's final fastening position. Since the studs are located differently, they have to pull this down extra far. When they do that, they are overextending the CV axle as well as placing the two components (CV axle & IWE inner assembly/actuator) at extreme angles to each other, thereby damaging the plastic collet and in some cases breaking the actuator in half.
Additionally, if the lower arm doesn't need to be removed, why do multiple companies list this as a necessary step when installing a leveling kit on the 2014- up F150s?
Lastly, what makes the AutoSpring spacers cheap in your opinion and what do you recommend instead and why?
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Wow. Maybe a communication error on my part, but what I was referring to is how some "monkeys" may try to install the strut. Although I could, I won't go into an argument as to who has the most mechanical prowess. I am fully aware of where the wheel bearing, castle nut and IWE assembly is. If every single installer is removing the CV axle, how do you suppose that they are being damaged (other than over-torqueing the castle nut)? I will tell you how. Once they have the strut attached on the upper side, they are pulling, prying, etc... to get the lower control arm low enough to accept the lower section of the strut into it's final fastening position. Since the studs are located differently, they have to pull this down extra far. When they do that, they are overextending the CV axle as well as placing the two components (CV axle & IWE inner assembly/actuator) at extreme angles to each other, thereby damaging the plastic collet and in some cases breaking the actuator in half.
Additionally, if the lower arm doesn't need to be removed, why do multiple companies list this as a necessary step when installing a leveling kit on the 2014- up F150s?
Lastly, what makes the AutoSpring spacers cheap in your opinion and what do you recommend instead and why?
Additionally, if the lower arm doesn't need to be removed, why do multiple companies list this as a necessary step when installing a leveling kit on the 2014- up F150s?
Lastly, what makes the AutoSpring spacers cheap in your opinion and what do you recommend instead and why?
With atleast a 2.5" spacer, the CV has to be removed along with the knuckle in order to have enough articulation to install the strut. On the 2013 trucks and down that didn't have a dog bone mount at the lower strut, you could possibly get away with prying things. The removal of the lower arm would make things even more difficult. Why do "lift techs" a couple companies suggests to remove the lower arm? Because that's how they did it.
Autospring's stuff is cheap and their welds are shart.
Rough country has little more credibility than autospring as far as performance suspension, tell me where in the spacer install to they list removing the lower arm?
http://s3.amazonaws.com/roughcountry...l/92569000.pdf
For you...
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