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My grandpa messed up royally and cut through a harness(see pic)

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Old 02-15-2019, 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by tvsjr
Ohms are a measure of resistance... they don't "pass through" anything. Short of wiring for the airbags or anything having to do with a hybrid system, there's nothing in an F150 that you can't cut, splice, solder, and heat-shrink.


You have no real way of knowing what damage actually occurred to the wire, if the heat increased its brittleness, etc. I would suggest what you mentioned earlier - go back to where you have good wire on each side, cut the harness, splice in new wire (using proper lineman's splices), then heat-shrink (I'd use adhesive-lined heat shrink, considering it's exposed to the elements) each connection for protection. I wouldn't heat-shrink the whole harness together... the best bet is to tape it or use Tesa tape, so you can remove it for troubleshooting if required.

Make sure you disconnect the battery before you do any of this. Actually, I'd go DC it right now... you have no clue what's touching what in that melted harness. You don't want to come out and find the truck on fire.
i know it’s a huge roll of the dice but I need to drive it to work early tomorrow morning. I drove it right now to pick up wire and heat shrink. NOT GOING TO JUST HEAT SHRINK

the wire is a small gauge, going to be easy to just cut it out and replace it. Then heat shrink it.
Old 02-15-2019, 01:09 AM
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Look into some weatherpack connectors. Depending on the length of damaged wire, the bulk of the connectors could eliminate the need for a splice/heat shrink.
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Old 02-15-2019, 01:34 AM
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Weatherpack or MX-series connectors (which are what those are) would be a good option. Cut each side back, connectorize the factory stuff, then build a jumper in the middle with a male/female plug. Plug in and done. But that involves having the right tooling to crimp and assemble those.

For the OP, I think you're nuts to drive it in that condition. You're just asking to turn a fixable problem into a much bigger one. You should plan to inspect every fuse in the fuse boxes once you get the problem fixed... I'll bet you've popped more than one.
Old 02-15-2019, 01:36 AM
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At my age I am feeling bad for your grandpa, it coulda been me. Im sure he is feeling like .... It will all work out in the end
Old 02-15-2019, 09:18 AM
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Disconnect Battery before you attempt any repairs!!!

In fact, I'd disconnect at least 30 minutes before repair
Old 02-15-2019, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by moe1967
Disconnect Battery before you attempt any repairs!!!

In fact, I'd disconnect at least 30 minutes before repair
i called in sick today from work. My boss is cool. So I’m gonna get started after breakfast. I’ll Kee ya guys posted.
Old 02-15-2019, 10:09 AM
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Old 02-15-2019, 10:23 AM
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Waiting with baited breath!
Old 02-15-2019, 11:29 AM
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UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE:

after getting the truck in the air and getting under it, it’s not going to work. If ALL WIRES EERE A DIFFERENT COLOR, it would work. But there’s probably 10 whites, 10 greens, 10 yellows, 10, oranges, etc.

so off to Ford I go. I understand fully that this is not going to be covered under my warranty but what I’m going to do is ask them to “submit” for a warranty claim so I can use my 10 day rental. Then once it’s denied, I’ll just pay out of pocket.



Old 02-15-2019, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Jack Anthony Rook
UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE:

after getting the truck in the air and getting under it, it’s not going to work. If ALL WIRES EERE A DIFFERENT COLOR, it would work. But there’s probably 10 whites, 10 greens, 10 yellows, 10, oranges, etc.

so off to Ford I go. I understand fully that this is not going to be covered under my warranty but what I’m going to do is ask them to “submit” for a warranty claim so I can use my 10 day rental. Then once it’s denied, I’ll just pay out of pocket.



they won't do that. Ford wiring harnesses all need photo prior approval before they will even give the ok to fix it under warranty..no way for them to 'submit' it


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