Shane803

This post says otherwise! ! wanna see a Pelican Destroy a Truck Bed...lol

CALM Trucking

It’s to bad theres always a group of Clowns creating drama. How would yous like it if you shared something that happened to your truck and people said they didnt beleive you and you made it up? Where Im from guys help each other, bust chops but never disrespect one another. Only pull ****** try to beat someone down. Ive had Aluminum spread just from putting a screwdriver threw it, never matching the size of what peirced it. Thats what aluminum can do. Its soft and tears, blows out ect....
OP: If I were you id grab a thin piece of Steel from a metal shop if your going to use your bed for any kind of equiptment, materials etc..and put it over your floor after you have that hole aluminum welded. As long as this isnt a Track Truck then dont worry about a few pounds. Ive bought some 4’x8’ sheets for cheap and coat them with spray paint so they dont rust. Just my 2 cents.

Napalm

OK so aside from the other stuff and I don't know if you've gotten this fixed yet or looked at.

that metal tab is there to lock the cooler - it's rather hard SS and it is what I would call "sharp" especially supported by the plastic nub below it. SO I could see how it would punch the AL - little surprised it tore as large a hole I would have expected a rip more than a ragged square but part of that might be due to the bed folds and the cooler layin on the ribs as a resting place.

Did I actually see 2 holes in your picture both look about the same? The hole being rough looking is due to how this AL alloy is designed to tear at limit. And I'd need a shop manual to confirm but I think the bed is one of the thinnest AL parts on the truck with the exception of the hood and maybe the door skin (the door skin being backed by a frame and cross members).

So yes 200+ lb cooler toppling over from say 60 mph - would have quite the impact energy on said nub. - if it did tumble twice then that just illustrates the energy involved.


Fixing it - a good AL body shop would weld patch that easily and that's what I would do. Mostly to keep any cracks from growing, and to help seal up the area. you could - stop drill the corners, relieve the tear with a file (for AL not just any file) and some scotchbrite to smooth it all out. Then put something like a epoxy in there. Honestly if you aren't familiar with metal work of AL I would use a body shop.

I would tell them to stop at priming the patch area - why - you're not going to see the paint and the cost would go up significantly. Also the body shop will appreciate not tying up their booths and you'll come out much cheaper.

Then I would use some lining on this. I like the rhino like linings - there are a few out there now. Pick one cost me shy of 500 to coat my bed. The would have helped but might not have stopped this from happening.

Now that you've read all the other comments - strap stuff down next time please. Good Luck and keep enjoying.

Slvr

Legit.
Tab originally penetrated / created a 'slit' at the tailgate side of hole.
Cooler/tab then slid forward, elongating the slit into a square until the cooler rolled/tab disengaged from bed.
100% sucks, but not much one can do about it now.
Repair can be anything from mild to wild, or none at all.
I'd be tempted to get some 1/8 thick aluminum flat bar from Homer Depot. Do a simple layover down inside the 'low'. Seal / secure as you see fit. (A little prep, then urethane, perhaps pancake head screws or rivets)
Next, for about 1 Ben, a rubber mat specifically made for your truck that takes all of a minute or two to ~install~.
Out of sight/out of mind.

(Had a spray on in my last truck AND a rubber mat. Bought mat just to help keep stuff from sliding around.)

XLTKim

Go with Line X commercial grade with the UV sealer. Did my 2018 S-crew last year and hauled about four cords of hardwood firewood...still looks brand new.