Sorry, wrong thread...

 

Yes they did. It took a couple trips back. They thought it was only the left, but when I picked it up I still had the sound. They replaced the right side and all was good. I didn't have any problems with 4x4 before taking it in for Bilsteins and tires, so I knew they had caused it. They didn't try to give me any problems, it just took a couple tries to get it all fixed.

 

Sounds like most dealers aren't up to speed on the need for vaccum supply huh?

 

Sorry for bumping an old thread but i keep coming a crossed it when looking for answers.

Are people still undoing the CV shaft while putting in the 2" spacer?
I just watched an install video and they didn't do that.

 

I'm wondering the same thing. I was also curious why you can't just hammer out the lower bolts on the strut before removing to give the space?

 

May be a air hammer is capable of pushing the bolts out before removing the strut?

 

I did the install, bitch to take out with the bolts but it is doable. The hardest part for me was putting it back in with the level, but again doable.

Also knocking out the bolts is really hard, wish the air hammer had occurred to me, that probably would work on the vehicle. I will be installing my brother`s soonish, so I'll give it a try.

 

Glad i found this thread. I threw 34" tires and a spacer on my 2016 4wd 2 weeks ago. Just running the spacer to clear for now until i get coilovers. Usually i do all my installed but i was limited on time and the tires would not fit without the spacer. They although very incompetent, said they install them all the time so i just had them do it. Now i'm experiencing the same issue. Vacuum pressure is good when i checked with my brake vacuum bleeder. So must be the IWE.

So to clarify, what exactly IS the Correct procedure for this? Unhook the vacuum line and use the bleeder to pump pressure into the line before lifting the lower arm when you bolt everything back up? I just don't want to ruin the next set of parts