LED Bed Light kit warning
#71
Bobby J
This helps explain why my install isn't working. I assumed i had faulty lights or i messed something up in ForScan...maybe starting with the 2018's they stopped running the white/blue wire from the rear harness up to C316 under the hood.. What a pain in the a**. Wonder if there's a way to wire it to get power to the lights and only use the bed switch...bypassing having to run a wire all the way into the cargo light switch in the cab. That's beyond my pay grade, but if anyone has ideas...
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Willgod (04-18-2018)
#72
Junior Member
This helps explain why my install isn't working. I assumed i had faulty lights or i messed something up in ForScan...maybe starting with the 2018's they stopped running the white/blue wire from the rear harness up to C316 under the hood.. What a pain in the a**. Wonder if there's a way to wire it to get power to the lights and only use the bed switch...bypassing having to run a wire all the way into the cargo light switch in the cab. That's beyond my pay grade, but if anyone has ideas...
#73
Bobby J
I'm guessing to test...would have to tap into blue/white wire where it ends in the main harness in the back and run a wire to the harness c316 under the hood and place in the correct pin location. Then do the mod from the OP to get the bed switch working. I'd be willing to try it without tucking all the wires away under the truck to test. Maybe the OP, who seems to have a lot of knowledge, can chime in.
#74
[QUOTE=patrickoneal;5433640]Here's the details. As the original post says, the white/blue wire from the bed switch is supposed to run all the way to the white/blue wire on the headlamp switch on the dash. It seems to stop at connector C316 under the hood.
It needs to go from here(White/Blue wire Pin 31 out of 34, fourth in on bottom row):
To here(my headlamp switch already has some splicing from my remote start, so yours will look a little different, pay attention to the white/blue wire only):
I used one of these posi-taps to tap the wire under the hood:
I used 20 AWG wire, as it was the smallest I could find locally. O'Reilly sells it for $0.19/ft and had it in white. The factory wire is 22 AWG, so 20 is fine. I wouldn't go bigger, it was hard enough to fish through the boot.
I was able to fish it through the boot under the hood by taping the wire to a cut off zip tie. I did not have to cut off the zip tie around the boot under the hood, but I did have to cut it off under the dash to fish it though. The under dash boot was re-zip-tied and taped after the wire was ran.
Tap installed:
Here's the wire ran through the outside boot:
Here it is inside through the boot and tied up to a harness(you'll likely have more room if you have an electric parking brake):
Here it is soldered to the white/blue wire on the headlamp switch, I think a posi-tap would fit back there as well, I just prefer solder. I unplugged the connector before soldering to avoid applying any heat to the switch:
I insulated it with vinyl electrical tape, then followed up with cloth Tesa tape to re-cover the harness and attach my new wire to my aftermarket remote-start harness. You can zip-tie or tape it to the headlamp harness if you like:
Here's a finished view under the hood:
And the "fish tape" made from a zip tie:
On my 2018 STX SuperCrew both wires were missing at connector C316. You most certainly have the white/blue wire in slot 31 and green/blue wire slot 30 of 34 on the side facing the driver.
The other side is where it may be missing. Instead connecting to the headlamp switch I used the the taps at Connectors C238
To look at it I did the following:
1. Disconnected the battery.
2. Carefully pried up the connectors, there's two christmas tree type retainers holding them down.
3. Lifted the bail to separate the two halves.
4. Carefully tapped the wires facing the driver on connector C316
5. Ran the two wires troughtout the fire wall plug and tap the wires at connector C238 instead of the headlamp switch
6. Connector C238 is right behind the left side kick panel right by the hood latch release looks white and green
7. Tapped the new two wires at the famele side since is the side that has the two actual wires we need to active the Bed Cargro trunk lights
You may not have to pry up the clips like I did. I can't remember which side of the connector is fixed to the fender with the retainers.
It needs to go from here(White/Blue wire Pin 31 out of 34, fourth in on bottom row):
To here(my headlamp switch already has some splicing from my remote start, so yours will look a little different, pay attention to the white/blue wire only):
I used one of these posi-taps to tap the wire under the hood:
I used 20 AWG wire, as it was the smallest I could find locally. O'Reilly sells it for $0.19/ft and had it in white. The factory wire is 22 AWG, so 20 is fine. I wouldn't go bigger, it was hard enough to fish through the boot.
I was able to fish it through the boot under the hood by taping the wire to a cut off zip tie. I did not have to cut off the zip tie around the boot under the hood, but I did have to cut it off under the dash to fish it though. The under dash boot was re-zip-tied and taped after the wire was ran.
Tap installed:
Here's the wire ran through the outside boot:
Here it is inside through the boot and tied up to a harness(you'll likely have more room if you have an electric parking brake):
Here it is soldered to the white/blue wire on the headlamp switch, I think a posi-tap would fit back there as well, I just prefer solder. I unplugged the connector before soldering to avoid applying any heat to the switch:
I insulated it with vinyl electrical tape, then followed up with cloth Tesa tape to re-cover the harness and attach my new wire to my aftermarket remote-start harness. You can zip-tie or tape it to the headlamp harness if you like:
Here's a finished view under the hood:
And the "fish tape" made from a zip tie:
On my 2018 STX SuperCrew both wires were missing at connector C316. You most certainly have the white/blue wire in slot 31 and green/blue wire slot 30 of 34 on the side facing the driver.
The other side is where it may be missing. Instead connecting to the headlamp switch I used the the taps at Connectors C238
To look at it I did the following:
1. Disconnected the battery.
2. Carefully pried up the connectors, there's two christmas tree type retainers holding them down.
3. Lifted the bail to separate the two halves.
4. Carefully tapped the wires facing the driver on connector C316
5. Ran the two wires troughtout the fire wall plug and tap the wires at connector C238 instead of the headlamp switch
6. Connector C238 is right behind the left side kick panel right by the hood latch release looks white and green
7. Tapped the new two wires at the famele side since is the side that has the two actual wires we need to active the Bed Cargro trunk lights
You may not have to pry up the clips like I did. I can't remember which side of the connector is fixed to the fender with the retainers.
#76
Senior Member
Because XL? I honestly don't know, and it's really annoying that they left it out of the cab harness, yet they sell this kit without warning.
Here's a diagram of what's going on:
Edited to add: It's not clear in my picture, but we're connecting at the back side of C316, this is where the wire stops on my XL.
Here's a diagram of what's going on:
Edited to add: It's not clear in my picture, but we're connecting at the back side of C316, this is where the wire stops on my XL.
#77
So.....
Will a 2018 XLT 301a have the wiring in place for the kit, or have to mod it as well as the forscan?
Edit: I guess it will with no mods other than forscan if I order this part number: 2018 - Up JL3Z-13E754-A
Will a 2018 XLT 301a have the wiring in place for the kit, or have to mod it as well as the forscan?
Edit: I guess it will with no mods other than forscan if I order this part number: 2018 - Up JL3Z-13E754-A
Last edited by F175; 09-20-2018 at 01:48 AM.
#78
Senior Member
Last edited by Donjuan2002; 09-20-2018 at 08:22 AM.
#79
Okay, I'm hoping someone here can help me with my backup camera wiring. I have a 2015 XL and I installed the bed lights last spring with no problems that some of you have had. My problem is wring the backup camera and trailer assist lamp to the C408 and run the wiring to C316. Since I the bed lights use connection 406 the only place to pin the new wiring is C408 but don't know exactly what to pin the camera wires. Sorry this may be off topic but hoping someone with bed lights has accomplished this procedure. Also with the new tailgate wiring Ford change wire colors with the trailer assist lamp from velvet to green and white and the rear camera wiring also has a grn white wire. thanks for any help here. My other option is to buy a new wiring loom and I'm not ready to that. There is also an empty plug with the bed lights loom and it was suggested to cut that off and solder the camera wires to that plug and I'm not ready to do that either. Thanks
#80
Did it work? I have an 18 XLT 302a and wondering if I will have to go through this whole process.