Recently installed Kings w/adjusters (fronts only). Here are my initial thoughts before adding the rest of the suspension items, as some people may just want to go this route and not add more.

2016 F150 XLT FX4 4WD
2.7l Engine
OEM 18" FX4 wheels
OEM Wrangler 275/67/18 tires
King OEM Performance Series PN 25001-376A




Install Notes:

I'm handy but I take my time and don't rush things. I have performed a spacer install on my previous 2009 2WD F150, took about 3 hours or so. This install took longer than expected, about 8 hours. Drivers side was first and a learning curve. A few troubles and tips below:

• I took off the axle nut as it gives so much more room to get tools in there. I covered the area with a clean plastic bag while working to prevent debris from falling into the grease.
• When you are prying the LCA to remove, install or fit things, be careful that the axle end doesn't land in the gearing or bearing race. This happened to me a couple times. Just push down on the arm and re-fit things if so.
• I found it easier to remove the bottom of the strut first and then pull the whole assembly down, rather then the opposite. I just pried until the bottom strut bolts came free.
• I had no issues re-installing the axle. Just wiggle, apply smooth pressure to place it and then tighten the nut slow. When tight, check the back to ensure it looks generally straight with the hub.
• My hate for black plastic clips remains. I would suggest removing the ABS module wire from all clips and brackets possible, even up by the control arm. Just remove everything very loose.
• For drivers side, start threading the resi through the strut tower with the coilover facing backwards (King emblem facing toward center of vehicle). Especially with adjusters, the 90deg fitting requires the resi to complete entry at an angle. Once through, spin the coilover 180 and redirect the resi forward to loop through. I did this all myself, but a second hand for this specific part would've been super helpful.
• The stage 3 video is extremely helpful, however regarding front reservoirs, they suggest cutting a hole in the bottom tow hook air dam (4wd only). I found that this is not helpful nor required. I did this for the driver side and still didnt have enough room for the back bolt. With some prying I was then able to just pop out the air dam from the bumper and angle it away. This gave me enough room. I did the same for passengers without cutting the hole, so now mine are mismatched but im not too concerned. Just FYI.
• Stage 3 also suggests getting new hose clamps stating Kings are too short. I also did not find this to be an issue. Just tighten them nice and snug.
• When tightening these, I suggest angling the resi fitting a tad away from you (toward center of vehicle). That said dont slam the fitting against the frame either. This is for the version with adjusters, so I can't comment on the non-adjuster fitting angles.
• Most of the above prepped me for a quick passenger side install, but getting the reservoir through and over/around was very tough. The turbo piping, battery cables, a/c and some other metal piping are all in the way. Again, start with the coilover backward and thread the resi toward the back of the truck. Watch out to not loop it on any battery cables. Also watch out for the ECM clips. I then spun it 180 again and looped it below the a/c lines but above some plastic cables.

All bolted up



Light Technical:
I measured these to be about 0.5" longer than stock, totaling 23.5" from top strut to center of lower bushing. I didn't get super accurate about it, just a long steel ruler, but stock was 23" and king was 23.5". This is interesting because the only online specs I can find are state King is 23 and Fox 23.5. So maybe I measured wrong, maybe the specs are wrong. This is simply what I measured at the time.




I left them at Kings pre-set height to see what it gave me, which ended up being exactly 2.5" inches of lift per side. Disclaimer: At first I saw 2.675 and 2.875 height, but after a couple drives around the block, they both settled at 2.5 evenly. King says they are set for 2", but that isn't my result. Factory setting is exactly 0.5in of thread exposed on top of the collar. Kings instructions say 2.5 turns = 0.5in lift, FYI, but I'll be leaving them as-is. I am running the standard 600lb/in springs that come with these. Stock is about 500lb/in.

The CV angles are pretty tweaked. I dont have an angle finder, but the boots are clearly rubbing. I may try to reposition them or just see how they do. I wanted 2.5" of height and I got it, so I don't plan on going lower for now.




Droop seems to be limited by the ball joint. From my measurement I still have about 0.5inches of shock travel left. The SPC UCA should open this open and allow for bottoming out of the shock. Regarding wheel travel, I estimate about 1.375" of droop travel at the wheel, which sounds about right for 2.5" level.




I'm not getting ANY arm or spindle contact with the spring. I can grip my hand around the control arm. So, you could definitely run this way if you wanted to but note that the droop travel is fairly limited and bottoming the ball joint is not good. On-road only I'd say it'd be fine. If you went lower height, it'd be a bit better. If you went higher, your right stock UCA or spindle might contact the spring and you dont want that.

THE RIDE FEEL:
This is probably what everyone cares about. Everyone has different expectations so hopefully the below review will help some people. I have not gotten an alignment as I am still waiting on other parts to install, but there is a nice couple-mile loop that has large/long neighborhood street dips and also a nice freeway curve. King's have 20-something adjustments. I did a few tests on FULL SOFT and FULL FIRM. Below are my subjective opinions:

FULL SOFT: At steady speeds on smooth pavement, it feels pretty stock. There is nothing firm or harsh going on. One noticeable change is steering feel, seems to hold position and respond much better. Less brake and turning dive overall. Turning feel is improved and after any flex (turn or bump) the suspension settles quickly. The dips get soaked up normally and again, settles quick. On the freeway its also pretty normal, and if anything a little loose for my liking. Would probably turn it up a few clicks bit for road trips.

FULL FIRM: It's not night-and-day, but its noticeable. Everything mentioned above to a bit higher degree. Dips are still soaked up. Body roll/brake dive both much tighter. Felt great coming around turns both street and freeway. Only downside I've seen at full firm was some bumpiness on a graded section of freeway. This wasn't an issue on the street but certainly noticable at freeway speed. I wouldn't recommend full firm for on-road anyways, so it's not really a issue, but figured its mentionable since it signifies something is actually changing.




If you are hem/hawing on whether or not to get adjusters, I would certainly recommend them. You are spending a good chunk of money without, a few hundred more for some fine tuning is very nice. That said, if you really dont go off road (or do so to a pretty minor degree) then I think you'd be fine without them. The on-road feel at full soft is very nice and comfy, even though I might turn it up a few clicks.

Additionally, if you are pretty much stock (no heavy aftermarket equipment), I don't really think any custom valving is needed with these. They seems perfectly driveable and perfectly capable out of the box. Another FYI, King confirmed with me the NON-adjusters are the SAME THING as the adjusters on FULL SOFT. So again, for a mostly-on road smooth feel, they will do the job. But come on, aren't the red ***** pretty?

I hope that helps anyone considering these or installing these. Happy to answer any questions. Take care.

 

Lookin good! Are you running an aftermarket front bumper? I used a pneumatic air hammer to knock out the stock coilover lower bolts to avoid dealing with the spindle nut. Swapped out no problemo.

 

My icons measured 23.5” and my truck has full droop with factory upper arms.

 

I am not using an aftermarket bumper, no. Also I did the install with mostly hand tools.

 

What do you mean by full droop?

The amount of available droop travel will vary greatly based on total shock travel, spring rate and preload/ride height.

 

I’m just saying that my coilover fully extends without the upper control arm binding. When I had everything back together I thought that the upper arm was limiting downward travel so I separated the knuckle from the control arm and that wasn’t the case, they probably could have handled another half inch or so of travel.