Originally Posted by TheTurdFerguson

Pretty simple really. I used T-Taps on both rear speakers run to a line out converter. And the Boss wiring kit was pretty simple too. I ran it through the grommet on the passenger side firewall. I used a straightened coat hanger lubed with petroleum jelly to create the hole. I taped the end of the 8 gauge wire to the coat hanger and lubed it too when passing it through the grommet. I pulled up the kick plates on the passenger side and ran the power wire under them. For the b pillar, I used the same coat hanger to thread it through the loom on the base of the pillar. I bent the pillar's interior cover plastic just enough to access the speaker wires.

This was my first audio install, and really took my time and read a few other posts on here about lessons learned when installing the sub. Mounting was a creation of my own because it was some spare materials around I had. And Velcro is easy and the industrial stuff works.

Originally Posted by TheTurdFerguson

Stew81- your setup looks excellent! Very clean and nice. I wish I'd of done something like your setup. Not that I lift the et ever- but it'd be great to have full rear seat rise. But- my current setup will put out some base when listening to Ice Cube's "You Know How We Do It"

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rzRqEWJYwX4

ToughFX4- a reflex sub just reacts opposite of the driven sub. As the driver pulls the driven/active sub in, the reflex sub pushes out. And vice versa. Really, it allows for more excursion of the driven membrane and produces deeper vibrations. They are pretty cool when you see a sub with reflex woofer actively working.

Originally Posted by TheTurdFerguson

All,
I did a lot of lurking around here and a few other sites about how to put a little base in factory stereo.

2017 XLT Super Crew with 7 speaker stereo - non-Sony.

I found the Kicker CompRT 10" subwoofer in a small sealed box for around $229 on amazon. It has a reflex sub beside it, but is only one powered driver (2 ohm)
I bought a Rockford Fosgate amp for $129. It's a 500 watt (2 ohm) single channel amp.
Also, I got the line converter and wiring kit... all told from amazon it was just under $400.

Well, it's a lot of base. So much so, the wife was not impressed. Thank goodness for the ability to dial it back. I adjusted the base both from the factory stereo and the amp. After doing some math, found out what my amp/subwoofer could handle and I checked it on a multi-meter (24.8 volts continuous, 49.6 volts spike/momentary). I've got the signal at just over 50 MHz for low end sound. The factory speakers do 'okay' down to that. And a 10" sub isn't good for anything above that.

I cut a 2x4 the length of the sub box, and I drilled a hole for the seat bolt in the wood. I attached the sub to the wood via Velcro, and I attached the wood to the truck the same way (industrial Velcro from Lowes)

To mount the amp, I cut a small piece of 1x8 and put it behind the back of the cabs carpet. I screwed the amp to it for mounting it vertical, and I applied more Velcro to the wood and back of the cab.

Anyway, cutting carpet to make space, it looks pretty good. I'll add pictures to show the final product. The seat folds up around 80%... I wish it was all the way, but it's completely hidden and sounds excellent (actually, too good)

Originally Posted by microbe0511

How did you work around the 2 seat mounting bolts on the floor? Is the sub box sitting on top of them?

Originally Posted by Stew81

Nice! I looked at this same box and really wanted to make it fit! I even took the carpet out and went back to the shop to do a test fit but I didn't buy it because I couldn't get the seat to fold all the way up. Ended up using a Rockford box so the seat would fold up.

Originally Posted by TheTurdFerguson

A 18" piece of 2x4 and a 7/8" paddle bit solved the problem. 2x4 placed over center mounting bolt with the hole providing space for the mounting bolt to come up through.

As time has gone on, I thought about drilling a hole in the bottom of the mount box, removing the driver speaker, and bolting down the box on the seat mount stud. I'd seal everything up so it remains air-tight, remount the speaker, and I'd be able to fold my seat up 100%.

I haven't done it yet... mostly because I'm lazy. But the threory sounds good.