IWE issues (vacuum or front hub?) on brand new 2017 F150
#102
January 24th update :
Oh well, looks like the new check valve didn't help at all... Remote started the truck this morning, we had a cold night, rubbed like crazy for a few seconds. I guess the hub actuator is just completely shot and does not automatically disengage when the engine starts & provide vacuum.
Now I'm starting to feel vibration on under the floor, probably caused by this friction. Veeeeeeery nice for a 50 000$ truck, very nice!
Trying to figure out how the hell will I be able to explain this to the service lady, as they ''cant remove the wheel hub'' unless they hear and experience the rubbing themselves''. This is a pain in the a**.
Oh well, looks like the new check valve didn't help at all... Remote started the truck this morning, we had a cold night, rubbed like crazy for a few seconds. I guess the hub actuator is just completely shot and does not automatically disengage when the engine starts & provide vacuum.
Now I'm starting to feel vibration on under the floor, probably caused by this friction. Veeeeeeery nice for a 50 000$ truck, very nice!
Trying to figure out how the hell will I be able to explain this to the service lady, as they ''cant remove the wheel hub'' unless they hear and experience the rubbing themselves''. This is a pain in the a**.
I went through the same thing with my 15. Dealer looked at it multiple times and said couldn’t replicate. I provided video (tape the date on your truck screen so they can’t argue that). Anyways .. multiple iwe’s and other crap then I fixed it myself with that valve.. so far
#103
This is what they swapped out: one of the parts includes the check valve as part of the overall assembly:
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...ZyPWxheWVyXzE5
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...ZyPWxheWVyXzIy
Now I'm thinking about buying one or two of each to have on hand !
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...ZyPWxheWVyXzE5
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...ZyPWxheWVyXzIy
Now I'm thinking about buying one or two of each to have on hand !
Anyone know what's involved in replacing the tube? Any special procedures?
Thanks!
#104
Senior Member
Located on drivers side of firewall. Take a picture of it with your phone. Then pull it off black vacuum box, solenoid and line going to brake booster. They're tight, I used flat duck bill pliers. Leave other line on solenoid than you can't put it on wrong. Don't mark up fender with belt buckle. Hair dryer to warm hose nipples can help if needed
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03SC Lariat (01-25-2018)
#105
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Wow, some of you guys are NOT having a good time at all.
I think it was "acdii" that's been having all kinds of trouble, I think they even got into his front diff., and he still has trouble.
Hate to say it, it rubs me the wrong way, but maybe you'll be one of the guys that has to run it until it's totally FUBAR. Hope not, that just ain't the right thing to have to do.
January 24th update :
Oh well, looks like the new check valve didn't help at all... Remote started the truck this morning, we had a cold night, rubbed like crazy for a few seconds. I guess the hub actuator is just completely shot and does not automatically disengage when the engine starts & provide vacuum.
Now I'm starting to feel vibration on under the floor, probably caused by this friction. Veeeeeeery nice for a 50 000$ truck, very nice!
Trying to figure out how the hell will I be able to explain this to the service lady, as they ''cant remove the wheel hub'' unless they hear and experience the rubbing themselves''. This is a pain in the a**.
Oh well, looks like the new check valve didn't help at all... Remote started the truck this morning, we had a cold night, rubbed like crazy for a few seconds. I guess the hub actuator is just completely shot and does not automatically disengage when the engine starts & provide vacuum.
Now I'm starting to feel vibration on under the floor, probably caused by this friction. Veeeeeeery nice for a 50 000$ truck, very nice!
Trying to figure out how the hell will I be able to explain this to the service lady, as they ''cant remove the wheel hub'' unless they hear and experience the rubbing themselves''. This is a pain in the a**.
Hate to say it, it rubs me the wrong way, but maybe you'll be one of the guys that has to run it until it's totally FUBAR. Hope not, that just ain't the right thing to have to do.
#106
Senior Member
Thread Starter
^^ That's what I think.
January 29th update :
Finally got a call back from the service lady (Had left a voicemail 1 week ago) and they reiterated that they couldn't perform further testing unless they witness/notice the sound. That's a ''Ford Corporate Requirement''. They could dismantle the wheel and inspect the actuator/axles but it would cost me some money if they didn't find anything wrong, which is a nonsense according to me. I told them it was unacceptable for me to have to pay to inspect my 6 months old and almost brand new 50k truck with less than 5k miles on it. I also told them it was bad business for Ford. Anyways, she gave me the 1-800 Ford client service line and suggested that I call to try and find a solution with them - perhaps convince them to pay for that ''further testing''.
Like JohnDay said, perhaps I need to run it until it breaks for real and permanently, hopefully within warranty coverage. Freaking loophole.
January 29th update :
Finally got a call back from the service lady (Had left a voicemail 1 week ago) and they reiterated that they couldn't perform further testing unless they witness/notice the sound. That's a ''Ford Corporate Requirement''. They could dismantle the wheel and inspect the actuator/axles but it would cost me some money if they didn't find anything wrong, which is a nonsense according to me. I told them it was unacceptable for me to have to pay to inspect my 6 months old and almost brand new 50k truck with less than 5k miles on it. I also told them it was bad business for Ford. Anyways, she gave me the 1-800 Ford client service line and suggested that I call to try and find a solution with them - perhaps convince them to pay for that ''further testing''.
Like JohnDay said, perhaps I need to run it until it breaks for real and permanently, hopefully within warranty coverage. Freaking loophole.
Last edited by Eduskator; 01-30-2018 at 08:04 AM.
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johnday in BFE (01-30-2018)
#107
That sucks big time. I wish that attitude was unique to Ford but, it’s not.
Maybe try a different dealer? They may have a different attitude.
Maybe try a different dealer? They may have a different attitude.
#108
2018 XL Sport 4x4
I have a 2018 F150 XL 4x4. 581 miles on it this morning. 54F when I started her up. Engine was only running for 30 seconds, when I backed out and started to drive. Twice, I felt and heard a grinding sound/sensation on my left front drivers side wheel. It lasted about 2 to 3 seconds, and was gone. Never encountered it again when I drove out for lunch, and my drive home.
It has to be the infamous IWE grind. As a precaution, I ordered (2) of the YG360 valves online.
Good grief, 581 miles....
It has to be the infamous IWE grind. As a precaution, I ordered (2) of the YG360 valves online.
Good grief, 581 miles....
#109
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I have a 2018 F150 XL 4x4. 581 miles on it this morning. 54F when I started her up. Engine was only running for 30 seconds, when I backed out and started to drive. Twice, I felt and heard a grinding sound/sensation on my left front drivers side wheel. It lasted about 2 to 3 seconds, and was gone. Never encountered it again when I drove out for lunch, and my drive home.
It has to be the infamous IWE grind. As a precaution, I ordered (2) of the YG360 valves online.
Good grief, 581 miles....
It has to be the infamous IWE grind. As a precaution, I ordered (2) of the YG360 valves online.
Good grief, 581 miles....
#110
2018 XL Sport 4x4
will do buddy. Plus, I plan to go the tandem value setup that you posted picks of...