Garage Opener doesn't work outside the garage?
#12
Senior Member
So according to Ford fresh batteries in the original remote will increase the range of Homelink.. Will someone explain this too me? Seems that as long as the Homelink learns the code it's done needing the original one for anything.
If I add double the batteries to my old remote will this double the range of the Homelink? If I pour snake oil on my Homelink will this help also?
If I add double the batteries to my old remote will this double the range of the Homelink? If I pour snake oil on my Homelink will this help also?
#13
I don't know if this is your issue, but mine was that I had LED bulbs in the lights of the opener. Mine would go up but not go down. I replaced the LED bulbs with regular incandescent and it works fine!
LED bulbs give out a signal that can mess things up.
Scott
LED bulbs give out a signal that can mess things up.
Scott
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#14
I had the same issue. The door would only operate when the lights were off. The owners manual for the opener addressed this and had a list of LED bulbs proven not to interfere.
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ScottSokolich (06-19-2019)
#15
Senior Member
I also had a standard LED bulb in mine, worked like crap. I found after some searching a LED bulb designed for door openers and it was available at Menards. Took care of the problem.
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ScottSokolich (06-19-2019)
#16
My thoughts too. I wired up cheap LED shop lights to openers. The LEDs created too much interference, and the door wouldn't open from outside. Disconnected them and everything went back to normal. Maybe the truck's emitter is not as strong, or a different design, than your standalone remote.
#17
How to Test Your Garage LEDs Lights for Interference
(Or how to turn a $10 AM/FM radio into a $100 RF detector.)
Step 1. Acquire a battery-powered AM radio. (Tougher than it sounds in the "digital age.) eBay has them for $9 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Vintage...UAAOSwB-lc7wFk)
Step 2. Batteries in the radio. (I know, but...)
Step 3. Turn on the radio, make sure it in in AM (not FM) mode.
Step 4. Tune the AM radio to a spot where there is no signal - just random noise or hiss.
Step 5. Bring the radio close to the suspect LED "bulb". If the background hiss gets louder, your LED fixture is generating RF "noise". This also works with various other "smart devices" in and around the home, like UPS devices, battery chargers, 12v power supplies and the like. Many (cheap) electronics use very rapid electronic switching to generate DC power from AC, generate RF (like bluetooth) and such. When the devices are cheaply made, the engineers buy cheap parts or skimp on the control circuitry to manage the interference. (You get what you pay for.)
(Or how to turn a $10 AM/FM radio into a $100 RF detector.)
Step 1. Acquire a battery-powered AM radio. (Tougher than it sounds in the "digital age.) eBay has them for $9 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Vintage...UAAOSwB-lc7wFk)
Step 2. Batteries in the radio. (I know, but...)
Step 3. Turn on the radio, make sure it in in AM (not FM) mode.
Step 4. Tune the AM radio to a spot where there is no signal - just random noise or hiss.
Step 5. Bring the radio close to the suspect LED "bulb". If the background hiss gets louder, your LED fixture is generating RF "noise". This also works with various other "smart devices" in and around the home, like UPS devices, battery chargers, 12v power supplies and the like. Many (cheap) electronics use very rapid electronic switching to generate DC power from AC, generate RF (like bluetooth) and such. When the devices are cheaply made, the engineers buy cheap parts or skimp on the control circuitry to manage the interference. (You get what you pay for.)
#19
Same
Same. I had two different types of bulbs- cree and GE, cree were causing issues. Coincidentally they were also the ones on the antenna wire side, but Crees are noisy as hell if you try to dim them, so I think they just have a noisy circuit. As soon as I removed them it was night and day.