Topic Sponsor
2015 - 2020 Ford F150 General discussion on the 13th generation Ford F150 truck.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Factory sub

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-07-2016, 07:31 PM
  #341  
Member
 
Canuck_F150's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 87
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by o0MEGA0o
Recheck the FORscan setting. Might have forgotten to WRITE the new settings before exiting.
i double checked it yesterday. Tried resetting the ACM and even restored as built and did it again.

Shows the value as listed in the spreadsheet with the first box showing 1808.

Left it overnight and just powered up the audio and no change. Still not working.
Old 12-08-2016, 07:30 PM
  #342  
Senior Member
 
stdr04's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 126
Received 23 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

So I just received the OEM Kicker Sub and installed it. Pretty straight forward. Comes with a harness that connects amp to truck wiring behind rear pillar. But i'm getting nothing out of it. I had the dealer turn on kicker settings. I own a multimeter, but not sure how to check for power. Any help?
Old 12-08-2016, 08:18 PM
  #343  
Member
 
Canuck_F150's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 87
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Had a chance to look into this a bit more; when I connect the old remote wire the amp turns on. At 15 volume the sub is in fact resonating so it's getting signal; but very weak. I went off the recommendations of others and split the +\- to both L&R inputs. In stereo and Mono mode it sounds about the same. Was WAY more base before the harness.

The 6V turn on does not appear to jive with my amp. My remote pulled out and popped my #23 fuse and I don't have any spares so that was it for tonight.
Old 12-08-2016, 09:25 PM
  #344  
Member
 
Canuck_F150's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 87
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by stdr04
So I just received the OEM Kicker Sub and installed it. Pretty straight forward. Comes with a harness that connects amp to truck wiring behind rear pillar. But i'm getting nothing out of it. I had the dealer turn on kicker settings. I own a multimeter, but not sure how to check for power. Any help?
did you buy from dealer or elsewhere. ? One kit is more plug and play than the other.

first things first check this fuse:



If that fuse is good then set you multi meter to 20V. Unplug your harness and touch the red probe to the top left pin on the truck side. Touch the black (com) to a ground. Nice bolt where the seatback locks into the rear wall. You should get 12V or more with stereo on.

If thatworks try the lower left pin truck side; that is the remote turn on. It should be 6V.

Last edited by Canuck_F150; 12-08-2016 at 09:28 PM.
Old 12-08-2016, 10:35 PM
  #345  
Senior Member
 
stdr04's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 126
Received 23 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

Thanks for the info! Fuse was good. 12v on top left. Nothing on bottom left. What's that mean?
Old 12-08-2016, 10:37 PM
  #346  
Senior Member
 
stdr04's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 126
Received 23 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

Also, I got the plug and play. It has comes with harness to go from truck plug to kicker amp.
Old 12-09-2016, 01:31 AM
  #347  
Member
 
Slowstang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Trinidad Colorado
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by stdr04
I can confirm that kicker settings changes the sound of all the speakers. I have no sub, but I installed the 5 speaker kicker kit a month ago and wasn't overly impressed. It sounded like they were way under powered and needed an amp to push them. I decided against the amp and ordered the kicker oem sub. I don't have the sub yet but I had the dealer enable the kicker settings. The door and dash speakers sound much better now. I think Ford knows that their stock paper speakers can't handle a lot of power. But when selecting Kicker, it feeds a little more? Does that make sense?
Make sure you turn on auxiliary external subwoofer when you get the sub. To to turn on the kicker/subwoofer selection in the ids have your dealer go under module programming - programmable parameters - audio configure. If you don't turn on the subwoofer, it will be audible but no real bump. Once you turn it on it sounds pretty good. I know because I initially only set the speaker setup only and did not turn on the sub. I was a little disappointed with how it sounded, then I figured out what I forgot to do.

Last edited by Slowstang; 12-09-2016 at 01:35 AM.
Old 12-09-2016, 08:42 AM
  #348  
Member
 
Canuck_F150's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 87
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by stdr04
Thanks for the info! Fuse was good. 12v on top left. Nothing on bottom left. What's that mean?
another user reported the pin was loose on his remote wire and was not making contact. I would try giving. It a wiggle and ensure that it is tight.

The remote should put out 6V. If I remember correctly the harness will show 12V even if it is not enabled; turning it on through IDS or Forscan turns on the remote wire..... can anyone confirm? i can do some testing tonight after work maybe. It's -18 here today.
Old 12-09-2016, 10:22 AM
  #349  
Senior Member
 
stdr04's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 126
Received 23 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

I'm wondering if the dealer messed up and didn't enable the sub. I know they said they enabled the kicker settings. Is there an option for kicker speakers without sub?
Old 12-09-2016, 08:35 PM
  #350  
Member
 
Canuck_F150's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 87
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by stdr04
I'm wondering if the dealer messed up and didn't enable the sub. I know they said they enabled the kicker settings. Is there an option for kicker speakers without sub?
yes they can enable the "7 speaker with kicker" setting which changes the filters for the speakers sub BUT they have to enable the "external aux. subwoofer" setting. Without that; no joy.


Quick Reply: Factory sub



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:03 AM.