Code P2418, then failed PCM?
 

Anyone else experienced a somewhat-failed PCM?

My truck has had a CEL on for a bit and a P4218 code (EVAP switching valve control circuit open), but neither drivability nor fuel mileage has been affected as best I could tell. I brought the truck in to get the door lock issue and block-heater recall done, and asked them to deal with the CEL at the same time.

Initially, they thought it was a stuck solenoid (which does seem to match the code's error message), then a broken wire (possibly introduced when replacing the solenoid), and now that the CEL has returned again, the conclusion is that the PCM needs replacing.

I'm mostly surprised that a PCM could be misbehaving without introducing drivability issues. Anyone else encounter anything similar, perchance?

Just to follow up, as I've finally gotten the paperwork from the dealer, it appears that they replaced both the PCM and the VBV valve (not an acronym I'm familiar with, but apparently a solenoid-operated valve that's part of the evap / emissions-control system); parts included 12A650 (Engine Control Module), 9C015A & 9D333 (both listed as "hose - connecting"), and 9F945 (Solenoid assembly). The tech's writeup notes he had to drop the tank to inspect the VBV valve and then found melted plastic to the solenoid, so he replaced the evap tubing over and near the tank. I'm not sure if it's a result of them addressing a sticking-caliper issue or the PCM swap, but I am seeing improved fuel mileage compared to what I was getting at any point previously.

kbroderick...great post. Thank you.

I have a 2016 F-150 2.7 EcoBoost and have been struggling with code P2418. I changed the purge valve and just had the vapor canister changed. Truck runs fine and have had no issues.

Did you struggle getting gas in your truck too? I have this code going on/off and am struggling to get gas too.

Did what the dealer changed above with the ECM and solenoid assy do the trick?

Thanks again,

Was this repair done on your dime, or did a warranty cover it? Seems like the pcm replacement wasn't needed. MPG calculations could be different as the new module learns the particulars for your vehicle. Could also have a different level of calibration.

Mtech...Do you have any ideas what I should be looking at? Im struggling to get gas with the pump shutting off and have code P2418 going on and off. I have changed the vapor canister and the purge valve but neither seem to have done the trick. Should I look at the ECM and Solenoid Assembly?

I too had this P2418 trouble code pop up on my 2016 F150 XLT with 2.7EB truck a few weeks ago. My first guess was the easy replacement of the Canister Purge Valve that is located under the hood. Cleared the code with my OBD tool and after a couple short trips the code popped up again. Next thought was to replace the Canister Vent Solenoid mounted onto the charcoal canister under the truck near the fuel tank. Again reset the code and again it popped up with the 2418. Did a lot of on-line researching and even purchased and downloaded a Workshop manual for my VIN through Factory Manuals. From all this I learned that the EVAP Switching Valve is aka Vapor Blocking Valve (VBV) or Vapor Management Valve (VMV). The manual states that the EVAP emission blocking valve is service with the fuel tank pressure sensor and tube, located on top of fuel tank. Decided to tackle this job and dropped the fuel tank to access the tube assy p/n 9F945. Went to my local Ford dealer and purchased this part. The other U-shaped tube assy is p/n 9C015 which is the Fuel tank pressure sensor. They didn’t have this part in stock and they told me they virtually never see a need for it and the 9F945 is the more common part replaced. Install this tube assy in place of suspected bad one, reinstalled tank, cleared the code and drove for 2 days on many start-stop trips and code has not returned. I feel very confident this is now fixed. I did this work all alone in my driveway. Took about 2 hrs to drop the tank as it was a learning curve, about 1 hour to reinstall. The part cost me $240 from the dealer.

Thanks for the follow up. I ended up changing out the same 2 parts and that did the trick. I have highlighted diagram attached. Hopefully this helps someone down the road. I had changed the purge valve and charcoal canister before that. Thank you.

I had that same code and my truck struggled to get gas.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...b81abf9736.png

Haven't been active on here, so I just saw the reply. I have not seen anything similar since the repair, and I've got plenty of time and mileage in since. No struggle getting gas in my truck.

My repair was covered under the 3/36 factory warranty. Mileage has continued to be on the improved side overall, and I do calculate based on gallons purchased vs miles traveled, not relying on the computer calculation.

Just had the same code on 2017 2.7 with under 40k miles. I reset it but the first drive it came right back. I have an extended warranty so took it to the dealer. Same as others have mentioned, dealer replaced the vent tube and the solenoid and 250 miles so far and code hasn't returned.

I know it's been about a year since some of these were posted, but I now have the P2418 code, ordered the VBV from local dealer and plan to do it myself in the driveway next week (06/13/22 ish). Any advice on dropping the tank? My main concern is the filler neck. I had my truck up on a lift while getting the oil changed the other day and was able to get a good look at it, but I wasn't able to see how or where to disconnect the filler neck hose.

Thanks in advance...

I have not done this repair myself but I seem to remember others that have said. REDUCE the amount of fuel in the tank to MINIMUM. Can lower front of tank enough without disconnecting filler neck, change the VBV (with tubing). Maybe those who have actually done can chime in.

Hardest part of this job to me is disconnecting the electrical connectors that are on top of the tank. You can't see them, just have to feel around and be patient. Don't know if you can change the part w/o removing the whole tank but give it a try. Definitely have a near empty tank and use a floor jack and wood blocks to support as you take the straps off. Having a helper for this part would be a great help. Also before removing fuel lines you need to disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector that is also located at top of tank towards the back. After disconnected crank the truck and let it die. Once stalled crank it over more to ensure fuel line is depressurized.

Just got the P2418. Don't have a service manual - is the correct part to replace FL3Z-9F945-B?

The one I purchased from local Ford dealership is FL3Z-9F945-C. I assume the C is just the latest version on this part. This was for my 2016 with the 2,7 eco

Thanks for the quick reply. Have a 2015 with the 2.7, I will order latest C revision.

Just FYI... I hadn't gotten around to changing the valve/hose since I haven't wanted to be lying on my driveway in 100+ degree heat, but about 5 days ago my check engine light went out on it's own and hasn't came back on again. I cleared the code again and all seems to be normal now. I did start getting gas at a different gas station recently that is Top Tier gas (not because of the CEL, but just out of convenience), so makes me wonder if it could be fuel related, and not necessarily the VBV valve... at least in my case.

TerryH22 - Was curious if the CEL ever returned? And if not, can you tell me what top tier gas you are now using? Thanks!

Actually it did come back, went off on its own again, but then in August I got the P2450. I cleared it a couple weeks ago, CEL came back on a week later, went off on it's own after a couple days. It is off currently, but.... I stopped this morning to fill up and it didn't want to take the gas. Only a gallon or two and would click off, so I had to keep stopping and starting, and then guess when I thought it was getting close to full. I've read that others have experienced that same thing,

So I've been putting it off, but now it looks like it definitely needs to get done.

Sorry to hear that! Thanks for the update.

you would think this would be covered by Ford under their emissions warranty but it isn't for some reason. Ford has really made me question my customer loyality to their brand...
I wished Volvo would make passenger trucks!

If anybody comes across this thread in the future... here is some insight to when I finally got around to doing mine.
I thought about pulling the bed off, thinking it would be easier to access, but that would have been incorrect. I changed course on that after stripping out the very last bed bolt and still couldn't get it off after drilling out and using tons of penetrate to try and loosen.
Anyway... I was able to lower the tank just a few inches, so no need to drop completely and mess with the filler neck, etc. I used my floor jack and a price of wood to lower it and hold it in place, while I was able to squeeze up into the crevice to disconnect the line. That's when I realized it is sandwiched between the tank and frame, so pulling the bed off would not have worked without lowering the tank to clear the frame as well. You do need to lower just enough to slide the connection ends thru.
The clips that hold the line to the tank are what gave me the most problem. Not only tight as hell, but also because not able to get any leverage from the position I was in to pull them, and same when pushing the new line back in. Eventually got it all done, and all is well now after about a year or so.

Thanks for the info! I have the part and have to do mine too! I may do a YouTube video when I do mine!