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Yes, yes, use the wire that's there to power a relay to power the horns.
And more importantly, do not hook positive to the battery terminal, use the nut on the hall effect sensor to put those bad boys under the BMS.
Alright, so Instead of running my positive from the Battery I should run from HES, an inline fuse, then to my terminal 30 in my schematic, Whilst the "Stock horn activation wire" thats coing off oem relay is still good to go?
Yes, the oem wire is fine to run a relay as it's rated for the higher current of the two horns the truck comes with. Power source from the consumption side of the Hall Effect will keep the horns inside the BMS, a good thing in case the relay develops a leak.
That was my first car! '71 coupe with 7.7 liters of torquey goodness. Grandma had just bought a Mark VII through my dad's Ford plan and gave it to him. We spent the summer stripping it, fixing a lot of rust, and painting it black. I think he wanted to keep it in the family. Giving it to teenager me did not facilitate that plan.
Happy to report I executed my plan as detailed in the first picture and everything’s working great Couple skinned knuckles pulling trim pieces and a whole Lotta soldering but she sounds great and the four horns fit in there nicely on a slotted bracket mounted to the stock horn hanger
08-18-2020, 05:06 PM
