loveinit

My rear brakes were done at 60k, and I don't tow. The front had another 10-20k left on them, but I just did them all at once. Look up MX mode, take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir before pushing in the pistons, grease the hell out of the pins and use the brake clean on the braking surfaces like it's free and make sure you put the fluid cap back on when you're done. I put a little never seize on the hub, but considering how clean mine was and that they popped off easily it's probably not needed.

babock

You are way better off opening the bleed screw while pushing in the piston. That brake fluid is probably the most contaminated and heat degraded in the entire system. Even better, do a complete brake fluid change when you do the pads since you should be doing it every 3 years anyway.

doug97gxe

brakes are pretty easy .. tools that may make it easier .. (you don't have to buy these specific tools.. just to give you an idea what they look like)





Helpful Instruction Videos

doug97gxe

before anyone does this.. i will strongly advise to know what you are getting into when you flush your brake fluid.. it will involve bleeding your brakes to get the air out of the line.. it can be an annoying and tedious process.. please look into this before you empty your system of brake fluid

that being said if you do decide to flush your system.. if you live in very hot climates also consider upgrading your brake lines to stainless steel braided lines

Napalm

I assume someone covered it but I'll say it anyway. Calipers unless actually damaged shouldn't need replacing - but you do need get to the pins out clean then and re-grease them for the next 130 K or 7 years.

Also rotors do indeed need to be replaced when they get to the minimum thickness. That min thickness is related to heat dissipation and pad pressure. you can wear a rotor so think you deflect it with the pads and that is well beyond min thickness.

so outside of that I would say rotors and pads and check the caliper condition likewise I would flush the brake fluid and if you've never done it have it done. It is fairly easy to do but it can be tedious. I like using a motive products bleeder but I used to do it alot on my racecar.

babock

It's a simple process and needs to be done at least every 3 years. I use a Motive pressure bleeder.

If you just want to get rid of the fluid in the caliper when pushing in the pistons, just put a hose from the bleed nipple into a jar that already has brake fluid in it.

For the most part, almost impossible to get air into the system. I suck out all the fluid in the master cylinder...fill with new fluid. Follow the sequence as specified in the service manual.

Napalm

true it is mostly easy. As stated above I suck out fluid from the res then slowly top off with fresh. Then push though with the motive (you can do the same by using a mityvac on the bleeder nipple or using the 2 man pedal push method- and once I get clear fluid out of the rear pax brake, I think hook up the forscan and do the ABS bleed procedure and bleed down the rest of the lines.

There are youtube videos for this and other things. It's not hard I do highly recommend getting a set of metric flare nut wrenches incase you do have to take off the brake hose from the caliper or other things.

SOme people with enough time will talk about gravity bleed - were you would open all the caliper bleeders with tubes on them and let it drip down. but that takes too long for me and is a little dangerous.

babock

Is there even a ABS bleed procedure in Forscan anymore? In any case, it is not even mentioned in the service manual to do anything other than a regular bleed. Even if the procedure was in Forscan, you wouldn't need to do it unless replacing an ABS component because there was air in it.

Tweather

those people shouldnt be around tools anyways. Please tell me what is dangerous about gravity bleeding though???

Napalm

brake fluid dripping on things, not checking on it and running the res dry, it can get air into it. I'm not a fan except for one particular case. Replacing all the brake hoses and or calipers. IE if you decided next week what you wanted to do to your 05 vette was to put all wildwood caliper and brake kit on. then yes gravity bleed that merf as you do the job.

Drop all the calipers off starting at the back - put on new caliper on new line/hose leave it to drip as you put the bracket on, new rotor,etc etc - move to the next leaving it to drip etc - watch the res - refil. Then pressure bleed just to make sure and do the abs bleed sequence. call it a day.

But it takes so long I think you're just better off doing a pressure bleed or the vac bleed method. (until I got my motive brake bleeder I used to use the hand vac pump method and that works well too)