If it calls for it you should do it. It won 't take you very long. Just have to unscrew the nuts a half dozen thread or so. A couple of drops and tighten back up.

Or. use a little green locktite and just remember to have a torch handy when you go to change the shocks in the future.

Truth be told, I've never installed Bilsteins. Will soon be doing so on the current truck. The other brands for the previous vehicles never called for it. Never had a problem with nuts working their way loose.

 

I did not use any thread glue on my installation. If you're torqued near spec, you should be good to go. If you still harbor any concern then throw a wrench on whichever fasteners were involved and check 'em.

As for your new ride quality, double-check your tire's cold inflation pressures. 2 lbs can make the difference between firm and harsh. Again, "cold" inflation. First thing on any morning.

 

Thanks APPLES. I will be doing the rears only for now as that is where I feel the issues with stock shocks right now. I'll wait till I replace the tires to do the fronts since it will go to the shop for alignment check then. I do not want to raise the front at all since it is 2wd and will never see more than moderate use on unimproved roads.

 

APPLES, what wheels / tires are those?

Never mind.....read your sig line. Why the 17s? Is that all that was offered with that package or did you elect to smaller?

 

I have a 17 2WD and am thinking of adding rear 5100's specified for 2WD. I see Bilstein 4600's listed too, and they cost a little more. Are 5100's better for our trucks?

 

It's a Certified Pre Owned XLT. I purchased it for the Coyote engine, the crew cab, the low miles and the great price.

17s are what was fitted, but while I like the look of the factory 20" wheels, I would never own them. I prefer less wheel and more tire on these trucks.

 

IIRC the 5100 is for stock and lifted trucks whereas the 4600 is for stock ride height only, otherwise they are very similar other than colors.