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I hear about this rear-end "kick out" a lot. I've never experienced it with straight line bumps. But hitting a pothole or bump/dip when in a turn at 60+mph I notice the body-roll changes. The consistent angle of the body will change for a split second as the bump/dip causes the weight to shift. This is kinda expected for a Leveled 4x4 truck and doesn't really say the shocks are bad, just not "race" quality.
I wonder if the straight line "kick out" is due to the OEM shocks not being balanced.
Did you notice if one of the stock shocks was more or less stiff than the other side?
It seems like this would cause the softer side to be pushed sideways by the stiff side when hitting a bump straight on.
My stock passenger side was easier to compress then the drivers side, but that's not saying much as my 6 year old could compress both the stock shocks. Also both of them had slop on them when fully extended.
There was someone who just changed drivers side first and that solved the hop. I believe they put Ranchos on.
Installed the Bilstein 5100 rear shocks on my F150 a few hours ago, very noticeable difference in ride and stability. My OEM shock from passenger side doesn't reopen at first when I push it down by hand, takes about 10 seconds for it to start moving. I think just about any decent after market shock would be an upgrade over the OEM junk.
Put my rears on yesterday...
Super simple, no jacking needed.
Just a 15mm socket & cresent wrench..
- remove stock shock
- leave the nylon straps on the new shocks to reduce the amount of compression needed to fit bottom bolt in.
- install top nut through new shock but don't tighten all the way
- push up by hand to compress the shock enough to slide the bottom bolt into place. (1st one took 2 attempts, second one took 1 )
- tighten top & bottom
Way easier than anticipated, not much driving yet but the shaking and jumpyness is much better.
Put my rears on yesterday...
Super simple, no jacking needed.
Just a 15mm socket & cresent wrench..
- remove stock shock
- leave the nylon straps on the new shocks to reduce the amount of compression needed to fit bottom bolt in.
- install top nut through new shock but don't tighten all the way
- push up by hand to compress the shock enough to slide the bottom bolt into place. (1st one took 2 attempts, second one took 1 )
- tighten top & bottom
Way easier than anticipated, not much driving yet but the shaking and jumpyness is much better.
Easiest mod yet. 1/2 hr start to finish. If you just pull on the green straps they will compress the shock a little if that is all you need.
Truck went from jiggly butt to nice firm @$$.
Prior to assembly, I painted my 5100's clear and then added a layer of the Xpel type clear film. THE 5100's have been know to corrode/oxidize on the exterior the first year in "salt" states. YMMV
Very well
Still just the rears
Much better on & off road mild 4×4 here and there
No more shimmy shakes when hitting bumps or cracks in the road etc...
Havent decided what to do about the front yet, still issues there....
These trucks are not that impressive overall, 11k now for me.
My 2013 xl f150 non turbo v6 4x4 work truck is way better in the snow and just plain is a better ride.
12-07-2016, 06:14 AM
