That is one way of doing it, but I think this would be easier. In your original bed lamp kit, was the power wire not run to C2280B Pin-44 [GN-BU] (the one that doesn't work)? If it was, then the easiest way to power your bed lamps would be to de-pin the wire at C2280B Pin-44 [GN-BU] and splice that wire into the wire coming out of C2280C Pin-26 [WH-GN]. Done, all at the BCM.

 

Duh, that makes a lot more sense. And, yes, pin 44 (GN-BU) is the one which is supposed to carry the power back.
I’ll work on that this weekend and report back.
(Now to find my de-pinning kit…)

Thank You for the help, much appreciated.

 

And the saga continues. I finally had some time to tackle this soldering.
I exposed both connectors (c2280b and c2280c), disconnected battery, pulled the connectors out of the bcm, disconnected from body to get more access, pulled back the insulation, identified wires 44 and 26 on their connectors (confirming the wire colors too). All good. Did a test with a probe and the puddle circuit had power when expected. Fantastic. Cut wire 44 (c2280b) and spliced it into wire 26 (c2280c).
checked the bed lights, nothing. Wtf
checked and there is power at the 26 wire but nothing at c411 connector (port 14) at the back.
did a continuity test for that GN-BU wire and nothing, so, wtf. That wire should be going to that connector as per the schematics.
Can someone check all this to make sure I’m using the correct wires.
all I can think is that the Gn-bu wire has a missing section in it somewhere because my option doesn’t have that feature. (Ie. the factory wiring left it out). I checked the wiring (as much as I could) and did not see any damage.

 

It is possible that the harness running from connector C2280B to C238 or the harness from C316 to C411 does not have that wire. You need to inspect those connectors for presence of the GN-BU wire at both sides of the conneectors.

C238 is behind the driver side kick panel.

C316, if it is the same as a 2016, is on the driver side front wheelhouse.

 

Thanks 52merc, the wire does leave connector c2280b as that’s the one I cut.
I’ll have to check c411; I can’t remember if I can see the wire colors. It does have a pin in #14 so ‘something’ is arriving there. I’ll peel back the insulation if I need to so I can verify the wire colors.
that leaves the connectors in between. That’s c238 and c316 as you noted. I wonder if the wire is missing between those 2. I’ll check that next. Looks like a bit of contorting to see those up close; peeling back the insulation is a pain.
it would be easier to just run another wire from c2280c (26) to c411 direct but now I’m determined to figure out what’s going on so, lol, stay tuned.

 

Well, spent an inordinate amount of time trying to figure this out. Double checked c411 and I see a green-blue wire coming into it and going out.(pic 1 &2)
then I decided to tackle c316 to save my back.
Of course there are 2 mostly identical connectors there so had to figure out which one based on wires. Did that.
Then found out that the blue-green wire does come into c316 on the port noted in the schematics (pic 3 -top row 5th from right; had to turn connector upside to see it as, of course, it was on the bottom row). BUT nothing comes out of the corresponding port outbound. (Pic 4 - 5th from right, top row, that’s also the normally bottom row of the connector; I flipped it)
aha, there is the issue! I thought I figured it out.

however, here is the confusing part; the wiring ( according to the schematic) goes from c316 to c411 with no other connectors in between. So how can there be no wire leaving c316 but there is one arriving at c411??? It’s not as easy to see the wires coming into c411 but there is a pin sticking out at that port (14) so that tells me there is a wire there and I found what looked like a green blue wire coming into c411. Unless they put pins sticking out in a connector without a wire?

I’m stumped but I do now think I confirmed the harness is incomplete to use to power the light so plan b needed. And since I’ll be running another line I’m going to right from the fuse panel and look into getting a box/gadget allows power to go through when I press the button in the box. I know it won’t work with the cargo lights and such but that’s not really important.


Pic 1

Pic 2

Pic 3

Pic 4

 

It sounds like the harness from C316 to C263 is missing the GN-BU wire. Did you check C263 for the wire?

 

No, I haven’t checked that one yet, ran out of time. Although I was thinking I don’t really have to.
its c2280b -> c238 -> c316 -> c411 and I know the wire leaves c2380b and arrives at c316 so that tells me it should coming into and out of c238, no?

No matter if it has a wire or not as I already do not have a wire leaving c316 so that alone makes this path unusable.

Or am I missing something?

 

At C316, is the one wire "coming in" or going out"? If it is "coming in" that means it has continuity with C2280B and the wire from C316 to C411 is not intact. If the wire is "going out" then C316 to C411 should have continuity and the wire from C263 is missing.

I'm not sure where the C238 come in, I think I mistakenly referred to it, but the schematic clearly show that C263 is the connector you need to be checking. I apologize for that confusion.

Have you actually confirmed any continuities with an ohmmeter?

 

Hello, I’m using my own mitchell1 schematic as I have a subscription for my model and year.
it looks like our schematics are close with some differences.

In my schematic it definitely shows connector c238 involved (not c263) - I included a few pics of the schematic with the path in pink highlight.

in c316 it definitely has the blue/green wire coming into the connector (from c238) on pin 30 but there is nothing going out of that same pin to c411. I verified this visually (see pics previously included)

I was going to do continuity testing once I confirmed I had a wire going end to end but since I do not then there is no point I think.