After using 4X4, “resistance” feeling in 2H..
09-17-2018, 08:27 PM
#1
After using 4X4, “resistance” feeling in 2H..
I used 4H a little the other day, and ever since I feel a strange resistance in 2H. It’s hard to explain but it feels like I have to add extra throttle to get going. I’ve had the truck 8000 miles so I’m come to understand how it normally feels and drives. Letting off the gas has me decelerating a lot faster than before it seems. If it’s any help, I get grinding noises between 5-10 MPH, I believe it’s the IWE issues I’ve seen floating around that I need to fix. Any thoughts on this?
09-17-2018, 08:52 PM
#2
Junior Member
After the first time I used my 4x4, the IWE issue you are discussing showed up. Mine wasn't as you describe though, it was a "tin can" type of rattle or grinding on the driver side front wheel under acceleration (could be felt some in steering wheel and floor board). Ford replaced the check valve under warranty and tech stated he could blow through it in both directions.
09-17-2018, 10:03 PM
#3
Does it bind up and stop when making a tight turn? If so it may be stuck in 4WD. If not one or both hubs may be engaged causing all or part of the front axle to rotate when driving. Have you seen a loss in mpg?
I wouldnt put off the IWE repair. When those gears are making noise the teeth are slipping and you will damage them.
I wouldnt put off the IWE repair. When those gears are making noise the teeth are slipping and you will damage them.
09-17-2018, 10:19 PM
#4
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The grinding could easily be caused by a bad checkvalve. Maybe change it out.
I'm wondering if it hasn't completely failed and your IWEs are locked in. The grinding likely is the IWEs being partially engaged, when the checkvalve does allow enough vacuum to start to pull them out.Those check valves are known to be an intermittent problem. Try throwing it into 4H/4A the next time it grinds.
I'm wondering if it hasn't completely failed and your IWEs are locked in. The grinding likely is the IWEs being partially engaged, when the checkvalve does allow enough vacuum to start to pull them out.Those check valves are known to be an intermittent problem. Try throwing it into 4H/4A the next time it grinds.
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moparado (09-18-2018)
09-17-2018, 11:04 PM
#5
Does it bind up and stop when making a tight turn? If so it may be stuck in 4WD. If not one or both hubs may be engaged causing all or part of the front axle to rotate when driving. Have you seen a loss in mpg?
I wouldnt put off the IWE repair. When those gears are making noise the teeth are slipping and you will damage them.
I wouldnt put off the IWE repair. When those gears are making noise the teeth are slipping and you will damage them.
This will be extreme bro science but normally if I reset MPG meter and drive 30MPH I’ll get 30+ until it starts to settle. After noticing this weird heavy feeling I reset and it’s at 18MPG and just feels sluggish.
09-18-2018, 05:33 AM
#7
Let off the gas and it goes away … very good hint right there.
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johnday in BFE (09-18-2018)
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09-18-2018, 09:16 AM
#9
I'm not the guy who initially made the statement, but I believe he is referring to the engine making less vacuum under load. If you have a bad check valve the engine isn't able to maintain vacuum pressure on the wheel hubs and they end up partially engaging. Vacuum pressure is increased when you let off the gas, so the hubs disengage again.
Last edited by oostertoaster; 09-18-2018 at 09:31 AM.
09-18-2018, 09:21 AM
#10
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I'm not the guy who initially made the statement, but I believe heis referring to the engine having making less vacuum under load. If you have a bad check valve the engine isn't able to maintain vacuum pressure on the wheel hubs and they end up partially engaging. Vacuum pressure is increased when you let off the gas, so the hubs disengage again.
