Active Noise Control (Fake Engine) Disable How-To
09-13-2017, 10:03 PM
#291
Well, I was tired of that noise after I changed the audio system with speaker doors and woofers under the rear seat with two amps and battery power saver and a really loud audio, it sounds amazing, but when I dove my truck home from the shop I was driving with the music loud, then next morning I can notice the fake sound was been transferred to the woofers! Bad bad moment, it sounded like a v8 bass I got a head ache with a 30 min drive, after experimenting for so long and audio shop didn't know what the F@&$ that was and no fix, by accident I didn't close the driver door right, I noticed the fake sound was gone, but the message in the center display keep saying every time I did a full stop that transmission was not in park then I tryed the rear door and it work when I pull ajar door sensor unplugged, but the problem is i have to push OK every time I start the engine on to override the ajar door and the little ajar door stays on, but my sound system is real good, and the sound of the engine is amazing when I have the music off, I can hear the turbos, my truck does not have the oem amp in the back seat, is not a Sony equipped truck, but I didn't care, cause I had the plan to upgrade in the first week with my truck, lots of mods already on it, with 493 hp and 780 torque and a on and off switch from the fuse box to disable the traction control off 100% with no engagement after 10 seconds of a burnout 3",5" suspension drop and 22" wheels, custom tuned, etc...
Last edited by jesus lozano; 09-13-2017 at 10:16 PM. Reason: Misspelling
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gsx600 (12-22-2019)
09-15-2017, 02:07 PM
#292
I started noticing a "rubbing / rotating" sound coming from the front-passenger side yesterday that I can hear starting around 35 mph and the it correlates with speed. I do not see anything obvious outside such as a heat-shield or other laying on axle, and from what I can see the brakes look OK and the rotor shield does not look to be touching (though I have not pulled the wheel). I can make it out above the AC and radio at a low volume, and when the AC off and radio off I hear it clearly - and as I speed / slow you can hear the "frequency" of the sounds - not so much the pitch but the "rate of speed".
This morning on the way in my mind might have been playing tricks, but starting to wonder if the sound is coming from the speakers on that side and if perhaps it is tied to the noise-cancellation / fake noise - perhaps something went wrong as I did not notice this during the 1st 8 or 9 days of having the truck and the 1st 1000 miles.... Radio from the speakers seems fine.
I don't have Forscan (yet) or I'd pop in there and turn off the simulated engine noise to see if something changes.... but wondering if anyone else thinks this could be related - or has experienced something similar? Until I get the Forscan and the OBD interface, is there anyway to disable this by pulling a fuse or anything so that I could try and isolate this as a cause?
Trying to book a service appoint at the moment to take it in, but as with anything the more homework I can do to help point them in the right direction the better
This morning on the way in my mind might have been playing tricks, but starting to wonder if the sound is coming from the speakers on that side and if perhaps it is tied to the noise-cancellation / fake noise - perhaps something went wrong as I did not notice this during the 1st 8 or 9 days of having the truck and the 1st 1000 miles.... Radio from the speakers seems fine.
I don't have Forscan (yet) or I'd pop in there and turn off the simulated engine noise to see if something changes.... but wondering if anyone else thinks this could be related - or has experienced something similar? Until I get the Forscan and the OBD interface, is there anyway to disable this by pulling a fuse or anything so that I could try and isolate this as a cause?
Trying to book a service appoint at the moment to take it in, but as with anything the more homework I can do to help point them in the right direction the better
If you figure out the issue, let me know.
09-27-2017, 09:44 AM
#293
Junior Member
We all know I like to tinker and pull wires...or if you don't, now you do. lol
I did a little reading of the diagrams for the DSP (Amplifier) and found the inputs for the Active Noise Control (ANC) inputs on the factory amp. This is only for the vehicles with Sony audio. I can't speak for any of the others, because I don't have anything else to experiment with. So here we go. Try at your own risk. I'm not responsible if you blow anything up!
A little bit of education, the Audio Control Module (ACM) is behind the dash. It is what takes the audio from the FM/AM/Sirius/SYNC/Door Chimes/ANC and sends it to the DSP in the rear of the truck on Sony models. Mine is the Lariat with Sony and 3.5L eco.
On the amp, behind the rear seat, connector 3154A (bottom connector when looking at the front of the amp:
Pins 10/20 Right Front ANC In
Pins 8/18 Left Front ANC In
Attachment 496000
I used my pin pulling tool and removed those pins and tested it by hooking it to a set of headphones. Started the truck, closed the doors, Sure as sh*t, there was the engine sound. With those wires removed, there is no sound routed into the factory amp and out to the speakers. Added bonus, that hiss that people get with after market amps is gone!
Attachment 496001
Hooked up to headphones to test.
Attachment 496002
Here's what I did to protect the wires after I was done testing.
Attachment 496003
Attachment 496004
Shrink wrapped one connector, then shrink wrapped the other on top of it.
I did the exact same thing with the other pair.
A bit out of order, but this is the end of the connector that needs removed in order to start pulling pins.
Attachment 496005
After doing this mod, I had no more fake engine sound. I haven't taken it out on the highway yet, but I can tell right away that the engine sounds are missing. There is no difference to the audio output for music. Everything else works as it should. As a warning, just so that anyone who tries this doesn't think they broke something, when that plug on DSP is disconnected, and reconnected, the door chimes will may not play through the speakers for several minutes until the computer realizes that it has been reconnected. Not a big deal, just something to be aware of.
I did a little reading of the diagrams for the DSP (Amplifier) and found the inputs for the Active Noise Control (ANC) inputs on the factory amp. This is only for the vehicles with Sony audio. I can't speak for any of the others, because I don't have anything else to experiment with. So here we go. Try at your own risk. I'm not responsible if you blow anything up!
A little bit of education, the Audio Control Module (ACM) is behind the dash. It is what takes the audio from the FM/AM/Sirius/SYNC/Door Chimes/ANC and sends it to the DSP in the rear of the truck on Sony models. Mine is the Lariat with Sony and 3.5L eco.
On the amp, behind the rear seat, connector 3154A (bottom connector when looking at the front of the amp:
Pins 10/20 Right Front ANC In
Pins 8/18 Left Front ANC In
Attachment 496000
I used my pin pulling tool and removed those pins and tested it by hooking it to a set of headphones. Started the truck, closed the doors, Sure as sh*t, there was the engine sound. With those wires removed, there is no sound routed into the factory amp and out to the speakers. Added bonus, that hiss that people get with after market amps is gone!
Attachment 496001
Hooked up to headphones to test.
Attachment 496002
Here's what I did to protect the wires after I was done testing.
Attachment 496003
Attachment 496004
Shrink wrapped one connector, then shrink wrapped the other on top of it.
I did the exact same thing with the other pair.
A bit out of order, but this is the end of the connector that needs removed in order to start pulling pins.
Attachment 496005
After doing this mod, I had no more fake engine sound. I haven't taken it out on the highway yet, but I can tell right away that the engine sounds are missing. There is no difference to the audio output for music. Everything else works as it should. As a warning, just so that anyone who tries this doesn't think they broke something, when that plug on DSP is disconnected, and reconnected, the door chimes will may not play through the speakers for several minutes until the computer realizes that it has been reconnected. Not a big deal, just something to be aware of.
09-27-2017, 10:14 AM
#294
Senior Member
Here is the pull tab release thing I was talking about.
https://www.builtrightind.com/produc...r-seat-release
.
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JacobZ06 (09-27-2017)
10-21-2017, 08:45 PM
#295
Has anyone done this to a 2018? I looked in mine and saw the connector has changed a bit. I imagine this is mainly because of the change from Sony to B&O.
How would I go about getting a wiring diagram for the B&O module? I can also look at buying the equipment to do in in Forscan but figured this I could do this weekend.
I don't so much care about the fake engine noise as I do the electrical noise that I imagine is noise cancelling? Closest thing I can think of to it is like a consistent dog whistle noise but very hard to hear. It's enough to bother me. I noticed that if I unplug that, it goes away.
Thanks all.
How would I go about getting a wiring diagram for the B&O module? I can also look at buying the equipment to do in in Forscan but figured this I could do this weekend.
I don't so much care about the fake engine noise as I do the electrical noise that I imagine is noise cancelling? Closest thing I can think of to it is like a consistent dog whistle noise but very hard to hear. It's enough to bother me. I noticed that if I unplug that, it goes away.
Thanks all.
04-02-2018, 09:48 AM
#296
Junior Member
Those that add subwoofers are the ones that will likely hear the biggest difference with the fake engine noise turned off. Before adding an amp and sub I did not really mind the fake engine noise. The low end portion of the fake noise was not that loud and seemed fine to me. However, after installing the sub it made the low end of the fake noise much more predominant. So in my case, turning off the fake engine noise made a noticeable difference. I am glad I turned mine off and can actually hear the turbos a lot more.
I've had my '17 Lariat for just over a month now. The fake engine noise (FEN) was barely noticeable until I upgraded my stereo this weekend. Now the FEN is unbearable - my sub thumps like a heavy machine-gun when I press the accelerator. I've got an appointment with the dealer this noon, and I've got my IDS screen print ready to point them in the right direction, should they need assistance.
04-02-2018, 02:42 PM
#297
Junior Member
Just back from the dealer. The IDS screen print WAS required. Without that info, the guy was about to put in a call to ford support, which he said would get back with an answer within 48 hours. With the screen print, he was able to disable the "Enhancement".
No charge. Done under warranty.
My music sounds great now, and I am loving my truck even more.
No charge. Done under warranty.
My music sounds great now, and I am loving my truck even more.
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jm061 (04-02-2018)
06-07-2018, 01:10 PM
#298
ghost sound in background after sloppily chopping wrong wires...
Okay, so I am an idiot...
I have 2015 F150 Platinum and I looked at the awesome pictures on original post without bothering to pay attention to the pin numbers clearly identified in the wiring diagram that was also posted, and assumed since first four slots in photo appeared empty that those were the four pins needing to be pulled. Then, to be consistently sloppy, after I was unable to figure out how to get the pin tabs to release (and potentially doing some internal damage to the plug housing in pins 10/20, though not that I can visibly see from the outside) I got tired of trying and simply cut the wires at 10/20 and 9/19, leaving only a half centimeter or less of wire dangling off the top of plug. Plugged in and low and behold, the fake engine noise still existed and I realized that I had royally screwed up.
I'll spare you the details, but I was finally able to reconnect wires on top of plug to slots 9/19, and then cut and capped 8/18.
However, now when plugged in though I have no fake engine noise as promised, when stereo is turned on and volume at head unit turned down, when volume level gets decreased to maybe 5% or so, there remains a permanent ghost like image of whatever is playing that stays constant at about 5% on left channels (can't say that I can clearly hear any bleed-through on right channels, but if there is its very slight).
This ghost-like image of the sound is not a clean signal, kind of tin-sounding, and even when volume at head unit is turned up past the level of that constant background echo, though you can drown it out past 10-20% or so, it is always there overlaying the sound and it seems not to be completely in sync, though it may just be that its not a clean signal.
I've inspected pins inside amp, all straight, checked for any accidentally cut or damaged wires nearby, paying close attention to left channel wires per the diagram and can't see anything wrong.
So, I am no engineer and obviously don't understand much anything here, but if the volume at head unit is all the way down and there's still a signal bleeding through, I'm guessing the input wires are at a constant level and volume control happens somewhere after the inputs to the amp?
I'm completely out of my depth, so any suggestions where to go from here to diagnose or fix this mess I've created would be greatly appreciated. I'm, so frustrated now that selling the truck and starting over is not completely off the table at this point.
-Thanks
I have 2015 F150 Platinum and I looked at the awesome pictures on original post without bothering to pay attention to the pin numbers clearly identified in the wiring diagram that was also posted, and assumed since first four slots in photo appeared empty that those were the four pins needing to be pulled. Then, to be consistently sloppy, after I was unable to figure out how to get the pin tabs to release (and potentially doing some internal damage to the plug housing in pins 10/20, though not that I can visibly see from the outside) I got tired of trying and simply cut the wires at 10/20 and 9/19, leaving only a half centimeter or less of wire dangling off the top of plug. Plugged in and low and behold, the fake engine noise still existed and I realized that I had royally screwed up.
I'll spare you the details, but I was finally able to reconnect wires on top of plug to slots 9/19, and then cut and capped 8/18.
However, now when plugged in though I have no fake engine noise as promised, when stereo is turned on and volume at head unit turned down, when volume level gets decreased to maybe 5% or so, there remains a permanent ghost like image of whatever is playing that stays constant at about 5% on left channels (can't say that I can clearly hear any bleed-through on right channels, but if there is its very slight).
This ghost-like image of the sound is not a clean signal, kind of tin-sounding, and even when volume at head unit is turned up past the level of that constant background echo, though you can drown it out past 10-20% or so, it is always there overlaying the sound and it seems not to be completely in sync, though it may just be that its not a clean signal.
I've inspected pins inside amp, all straight, checked for any accidentally cut or damaged wires nearby, paying close attention to left channel wires per the diagram and can't see anything wrong.
So, I am no engineer and obviously don't understand much anything here, but if the volume at head unit is all the way down and there's still a signal bleeding through, I'm guessing the input wires are at a constant level and volume control happens somewhere after the inputs to the amp?
I'm completely out of my depth, so any suggestions where to go from here to diagnose or fix this mess I've created would be greatly appreciated. I'm, so frustrated now that selling the truck and starting over is not completely off the table at this point.
-Thanks
