3.5 EB first oil change observations
02-09-2019, 08:58 PM
#1
3.5 EB first oil change observations, mess mitigation, Ronin
There are many threads on here regarding the "gush" problem with this engines plastic oil pan, screwy plug and the exit orientation. So I went into this today prepared for the worst, but shared forum knowledge equipped! Thanks to those that contributed!
First, I thought I'd be a smarty pants and use my oil sump pump that I use on my big Yamaha outboard boat engine and just suck out the majority before pulling the plug.... easy peazy and debulk the issue, right? Whelp, while the pump will evacuate all* of my boats sump from the dipstick hole (vertical crankshaft too fwiw), the design of my EB is such that the pump tube, while bottomed out in the dipstick hole (great way to get a PRE change oil analysis BTW), it'll only retrieve about 2-3 quarts this way. DOH! So much for gaming this system.
So now to the underside and storied land of Jed Clampet style oil changes LOL. Cut to the chase/dribble/drip here- on a RWD, 3.5 EB, up on front ramps. After loosening the whack-a-plug just a bit, I found it no problem to snake my left arm up and over the torsion bar in order to loosen the plug enough to get a good but conservative stream, while holding my oil catch pan with my right hand up close to avoid splatter. After a short while, and starting out 2.5q "low", I was able to set the pan down and let her dribble the rest out. No mess, no drama. Not even a dribble down my nitriled hand or arm as it was positioned above the plug. Bottom line for me was, unless one were to yank the plug without consideration or prior knowledge, it really isn't that big a deal* Again too, YMMY as this is a 3.5 and RWD.
Now all that being said, I did however previously buy into the "hype" ( sorry Ronin...) and had purchased one of their wunder plugs, which I did install at this juncture.
NICE piece of billet and engineering!! Went on just as advertised, though the wave spring/seating tension seemed lower than expected or as depicted in their video. It will be interesting how the next change goes in comparison!
And yes, the pump will be left in the boat barn next time
First, I thought I'd be a smarty pants and use my oil sump pump that I use on my big Yamaha outboard boat engine and just suck out the majority before pulling the plug.... easy peazy and debulk the issue, right? Whelp, while the pump will evacuate all* of my boats sump from the dipstick hole (vertical crankshaft too fwiw), the design of my EB is such that the pump tube, while bottomed out in the dipstick hole (great way to get a PRE change oil analysis BTW), it'll only retrieve about 2-3 quarts this way. DOH! So much for gaming this system.
So now to the underside and storied land of Jed Clampet style oil changes LOL. Cut to the chase/dribble/drip here- on a RWD, 3.5 EB, up on front ramps. After loosening the whack-a-plug just a bit, I found it no problem to snake my left arm up and over the torsion bar in order to loosen the plug enough to get a good but conservative stream, while holding my oil catch pan with my right hand up close to avoid splatter. After a short while, and starting out 2.5q "low", I was able to set the pan down and let her dribble the rest out. No mess, no drama. Not even a dribble down my nitriled hand or arm as it was positioned above the plug. Bottom line for me was, unless one were to yank the plug without consideration or prior knowledge, it really isn't that big a deal* Again too, YMMY as this is a 3.5 and RWD.
Now all that being said, I did however previously buy into the "hype" ( sorry Ronin...) and had purchased one of their wunder plugs, which I did install at this juncture.
NICE piece of billet and engineering!! Went on just as advertised, though the wave spring/seating tension seemed lower than expected or as depicted in their video. It will be interesting how the next change goes in comparison!
And yes, the pump will be left in the boat barn next time
Last edited by noclutch; 02-09-2019 at 09:36 PM.
02-10-2019, 01:55 AM
#2
Now please write how to do it with the metal pan. Ha ha. I made a royal mess. It's pretty obvious the 3.5EB wasn't designed for the F-150. The freaking plug is right in line with the sway bar. Not looking forward to the next oil change. Need to figure out a way to divert the oil below. And no, don't want a Fumoto or similar valve. Glad it's easier with the plastic valve, but prefer a metal pan myself. Just wish Ford had paid more attention to maintenance. Wonder how dealers do it. They must make a mess too.
02-10-2019, 08:11 PM
#3
elptxjc- I hear ya on the metal vs plastic and wish I had the former! But I'm stuck with what I got.... Fingers crossed!
On this topic, does anyone know WHY they went plastic in the first place?
From my understanding of manufacturing in the current decade, plastic is a lot more expensive to get "up and running" considering injection mold costs. However it enables more complex designs that would require expensive machining on comparable cast or stamped metal pieces. Yes plastic is cheaper than metals, but is that the only reason?? Is that close??
And if so, doesn't it seem that Ford basically dropped the ball on the design of the complex oil pan/crankcase mating surface/shape/design that requires a PITA to produce oil pan?
On this topic, does anyone know WHY they went plastic in the first place?
From my understanding of manufacturing in the current decade, plastic is a lot more expensive to get "up and running" considering injection mold costs. However it enables more complex designs that would require expensive machining on comparable cast or stamped metal pieces. Yes plastic is cheaper than metals, but is that the only reason?? Is that close??
And if so, doesn't it seem that Ford basically dropped the ball on the design of the complex oil pan/crankcase mating surface/shape/design that requires a PITA to produce oil pan?
02-10-2019, 08:19 PM
#4
Senior Member
elptxjc- I hear ya on the metal vs plastic and wish I had the former! But I'm stuck with what I got.... Fingers crossed!
On this topic, does anyone know WHY they went plastic in the first place?
From my understanding of manufacturing in the current decade, plastic is a lot more expensive to get "up and running" considering injection mold costs. However it enables more complex designs that would require expensive machining on comparable cast or stamped metal pieces. Yes plastic is cheaper than metals, but is that the only reason?? Is that close??
And if so, doesn't it seem that Ford basically dropped the ball on the design of the complex oil pan/crankcase mating surface/shape/design that requires a PITA to produce oil pan?
On this topic, does anyone know WHY they went plastic in the first place?
From my understanding of manufacturing in the current decade, plastic is a lot more expensive to get "up and running" considering injection mold costs. However it enables more complex designs that would require expensive machining on comparable cast or stamped metal pieces. Yes plastic is cheaper than metals, but is that the only reason?? Is that close??
And if so, doesn't it seem that Ford basically dropped the ball on the design of the complex oil pan/crankcase mating surface/shape/design that requires a PITA to produce oil pan?
02-11-2019, 12:04 AM
#5
Senior Member
02-11-2019, 03:20 AM
#6
Senior Member
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02-11-2019, 10:07 AM
#8
02-11-2019, 10:36 AM
#9
Senior Member
I think in the end the answer to the question is...$$$$$$$$$ Even if we think plastic would cost more, it obviously isn't costing Ford more then another material or they'd most likely be using it. IMO
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N4HHE (02-11-2019)
02-11-2019, 05:08 PM
#10
Senior Member
18 with aluminum pan.
My first oil change no oil hit the sway bar. My second oil change it did. I obviously jacked it up differently between the oil changes. I cannot remember which way though..... But you can change the oil without it hitting the swaybar.
Maybe I jacked it only on passenger side, then lowered it after most of it had drained??
My first oil change no oil hit the sway bar. My second oil change it did. I obviously jacked it up differently between the oil changes. I cannot remember which way though..... But you can change the oil without it hitting the swaybar.
Maybe I jacked it only on passenger side, then lowered it after most of it had drained??