Does anybody know the number to the TSB that's supposed to correct the rattle on start/ cam phaser problem?

I have a '17 3.5L EB and Im taking it in next week for the second time in a year for the same problem. Is there any type of permanent fix for this or do I need to bail on the truck before the warranty runs out and I have to pay for this myself when it happens again?

 

its not a problem you are imagining it. so says a member that works in a dealership service department. its fake news, LOL I am only kidding but, I brought it to light here and was attacked by the ford fanboys. Its not comforting knowing they are putting the same bad parts back into the motor.

 

I don't have this problem but, it would be interesting to have a survey of how these trucks are driven by the people having this issue and what their oil change intervals are. I also find it curious that Ford doesn't make any improvements with these phasers and what their reasoning behind it is. There have been many threads on this subject so, there should be enough info for some kind of survey.

 

OP, Ford is supposed to be using redesigned cam phasers now, so if you get the job done again, you should get those.

Just like MDXLT mused, I'm also starting to suspect driving patterns might have something to do with that issue too. I guess we'll know if my truck eventually develops it. I switched to Mobil1 0/30 since the first oil change at 3K miles. And have been changing it every 5K miles (last done recently at 13K). And I always drive in sport mode, and hardly ever lug the engine, which always happen if driven in normal mode. And many times even in sport... if I didn't have 9th and 10th always locked out in the city, and 10th always locked out, period. Hopefully not driving my truck like a diesel will prevent that issue, but only time will tell .

Finally, that last subject above is worth getting deep into it, folks. The only fact we have about the cold-start rattle is that a hard plastic pin breaks inside the phasers. So the first obvious question is this: Which conditions cause the phaser pins to have the greatest loads? Once we know that answer, if we try to avoid that scenario, we'd be extending the life of the phasers . My guess is high engine loads at low rpm, so basically lugging the engine, but could be wrong. Let's hear some answers from the engine experts .

 

I watched a utube yesterday comparing the 5.0L and 3.5 EB for reliability over time and mileage. The guy that owned the 3.5 EB bought it brand new, 2013 and if you add the additional issue with the timing chains, that would be another consideration. This guy kept meticulous records of the maintenance on his truck of which he has close to 250k on the odometer with the only problem being several TB's replaced. I might mention that he drags a trailer behind it most of those miles. Not one mention of a phaser or timing chain issue. You can check this video out here if you care to:

 

Since we have the 2nd generation 3.5EB, no sense in comparing to the old one. On one hand, the cam chain system in the 2nd gen is better, due to dual chains, so stretch is a non-issue now. And many other improvements. But Ford screwed the pooch with the cam phasers. And it's turning out to be a bigger problem than the old ones, since it happens a lot sooner. Talk about going backwards. Oh well. Other than that, the nagging issues that my truck has shown I've corrected most of them myself, with a couple still waiting to get tackled. But what might force me to sell it is the ticking bomb of the damn phasers, since I'm not willing to put up with the massive job it entails to correct them. I'm torn on what to do, but if I sell it, it was my last truck for sure. I don't really use the bed other than to haul my motorcycle (which is more dangerous than I thought), and luggage and crap under the tonneau when traveling. But the main reason to buy it in the first place was the motorcycle idea. Now, I much prefer a trailer, but didn't want to sell the truck due to the massive loss. We'll see what I decide .

 

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Thanks for the video. I just ordered all the parts.

Any tips for DIY?

 

My pleasure. It's all pretty straight forward if you are familiar with timing jobs in general. The valve covers tend to be a pain taking off due to the spark plug tube seals, at least mine was. Thought for sure we were going to break the covers, but they eventually walked off. It is said that so long as the tube seals and vct seals look good (no tears) and are pliable that they can be reused. A friend brought his '13 over after he had a shop do the job and they reused the seals.... the plugs were soaked in oil and I mean soaked. Couldn't even see the plugs. Knowing that I opted to replace all the tube and vct seals as well as the oil sensor that sticks out from the front cover out an abundance of caution.

Regarding sealers and especially after finding a front cover bolt with wet sealer still on it after 78K miles, I don't trust the ford sealer. Read about issues related to this around the oil pan for those of us with plastic pans, an issue which mine suffers from as well and is on the list. I am going back in with either hondabond or permatex Right Stuff (not the 1 minute gasket maker, though both are awesome product of which I've never encountered problem). The Ford recommendation is to get the cover on and seated within 4 minutes or something once the sealer is applied, so have to do more research there for peace of mind, but the time it takes to put the cover back on would be more time than is allowed with my preferred gasket maker.

Not sure if you're doing the whole timing set, but definitely recommend at least checking the tensioners for extension.

Patience and pictures, video if needed for reference as you go, but most bolts are shared. Timing cover has 4 or 5 maybe that are longer than the bulk, thinking they are the inner most bolts when looking at the cover.

This guy has a great walkthrough for the 1st gens and a lot of it is the same. The 2nd gen cam lock tool is different than the 1st gen and had a hard time tracking the correct tool down, likely supply issues. And I believe the phaser torque specs are different between the 1st and 2nd gens, but have not looked at the service manual in a bit. If you need the procedure/torque specs, shoot me a pm and I'll break off that section in a pdf. Eventually going to drop it in Drive, but haven't gotten to it yet.

Might need a buddy to hold the cam tool in place to make sure it doesn't pop up while breaking them free/torqueing then. Mine wanted to pop up, so borrowed my neighbor.

Drive folder with various photos, videos and pdf (whole service manual): deleted due to hackers. Can't have anything nice.

Video of wet sealer discovery: deleted due to hackers. Can't have anything nice.

 

This is awesome ! Will review.

Thank you!!