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2020 iwe problems. (Already changed check valve)

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Old 03-31-2022, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by johnday in BFE
Yes, please do, good luck.
Have you heard of anyone still having the grinding/ howling sound even after unplugging the solenoid? Just got back from a drive is making the sound like before if not worse and the solenoid is unplugged? I’m confused as to why it would have started up again?
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Old 03-31-2022, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by BPilk18
Have you heard of anyone still having the grinding/ howling sound even after unplugging the solenoid? Just got back from a drive is making the sound like before if not worse and the solenoid is unplugged? I’m confused as to why it would have started up again?
Yes, I have, but IIRC, they were Lariats on up with the TOD transfer case, and trouble was with diff.
How long have you been having trouble like this? I'm wondering if you've got an IWE that may be damaged to the point that it can't engage.
Before you take it to the dealer, make sure you plug the solenoid back in.
Old 03-31-2022, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by johnday in BFE
Yes, I have, but IIRC, they were Lariats on up with the TOD transfer case, and trouble was with diff.
How long have you been having trouble like this? I'm wondering if you've got an IWE that may be damaged to the point that it can't engage.
Before you take it to the dealer, make sure you plug the solenoid back in.
just got this truck last Saturday. Today I was driving along fine and then the noise started back up, along with the new scratching like sound like I have heard in other videos with iwe issues. I haven’t tried yet but if put it in 4H should both sounds stop? I know the howling definitely does but not sure about the new scratching sound. I have a trip planned this weekend I need the truck for some im trying to figure if I still can by just running it in true 4H. Ps definitely plugged it back in! Lol
Old 03-31-2022, 01:00 PM
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Well, you absolutely CANNOT drive only in 4h. You're sure to damage some driveline component. You CAN drive in 4a or with the electrical connection gone from the solenoid. Or you can pull the vacuum hose from each wheel end, plug the hose and cap the nipple and drive. All three options give the same end result, a locked hub. The humming sound is likely something else if it exists with a locked hub. The grinding teeth is only happening due to insufficient vacuum or a bad IWE (sticky/crooked) that will not actuate back and forth like it should.

If you do in fact have an IWE issue and the 'scratching' sound is metal on metal, you're IWE and hub will soon be worn.
If the vehicle is warrantied, Ford and/or the warranty company should replace both damaged items. I don't know if Ford or the warranty company will say "oh, well you drove it on purpose and caused this damage" no we will not cover the repairs. It should be apparent to the tech that disassembles the unit that it 'didn't just happen'.
Old 03-31-2022, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 16IngotFX4
Well, you absolutely CANNOT drive only in 4h. You're sure to damage some driveline component. You CAN drive in 4a or with the electrical connection gone from the solenoid. Or you can pull the vacuum hose from each wheel end, plug the hose and cap the nipple and drive. All three options give the same end result, a locked hub. The humming sound is likely something else if it exists with a locked hub. The grinding teeth is only happening due to insufficient vacuum or a bad IWE (sticky/crooked) that will not actuate back and forth like it should.

If you do in fact have an IWE issue and the 'scratching' sound is metal on metal, you're IWE and hub will soon be worn.
If the vehicle is warrantied, Ford and/or the warranty company should replace both damaged items. I don't know if Ford or the warranty company will say "oh, well you drove it on purpose and caused this damage" no we will not cover the repairs. It should be apparent to the tech that disassembles the unit that it 'didn't just happen'.
i have already unplugged the solenoid as I previously stated and now the sound is now back. Which is why I’m scratching my head
Old 04-04-2022, 10:15 AM
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Update *
dealer did vacuum test. Passed. Replaced the actuator drivers side, “broken”.
So far no noises!
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Old 04-04-2022, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by BPilk18
Update *
dealer did vacuum test. Passed. Replaced the actuator drivers side, “broken”.
So far no noises!
Did you get to see it? Glad it appears to be repaired, but curious how bad the teeth were ground down.
Old 04-04-2022, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by johnday in BFE
Did you get to see it? Glad it appears to be repaired, but curious how bad the teeth were ground down.
You know I was going to ask for it but they were backed. They just threw me the keys and a quick signature I was gone. I was definitely curious and wanted to know why they are failing and if at which point it will be a recall?
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Old 04-04-2022, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by BPilk18
You know I was going to ask for it but they were backed. They just threw me the keys and a quick signature I was gone. I was definitely curious and wanted to know why they are failing and if at which point it will be a recall?
LOL! A recall? That "might" not be a good thing, I wouldn't want anyone but me screwing around with it. A recall might be worse than the problem.
On the Lariats on up with the TOD case, the Ford TSB just has them remove and cap the vacuum lines from the source. Still waiting to see if there ends up being a class action lawsuit on that. People paid for that feature, and Ford is negating it.
Old 04-04-2022, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by BPilk18
You know I was going to ask for it but they were backed. They just threw me the keys and a quick signature I was gone. I was definitely curious and wanted to know why they are failing and if at which point it will be a recall?
Would only be a recall if there was a real safety risk. I think they were redesigned for 2021+ so Ford is trying to put this behind them.

Lots of trucks out there with no issue though, remember Ford sells a LOT of F-150's.

Could be a few reasons why it failed:
Gummed up with old grease/dirt
Seal in the IWE itself failed. Sounds like this was your specific issue
Vacuum line damage which leads to partial engage/disenages and grinding, wearing out IWE.

Fortunately it is easy to diagnose and fix.


Quick Reply: 2020 iwe problems. (Already changed check valve)



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