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a couple things come to mind for me. how low was she on fuel and was she parked on a slope? been documented here on the forums many times about people having under a 1/4 tank of gas and not being able to start their truck if on even a slight incline
When that situation happened to me, the vehicle would crank but not start. OP's is experiencing a no-crank situation.
I started to compose the same low fuel message until I understood it was only a click when key turned, no-crank.
Good reminder though to OP. Remind your friend not to park with the front facing downhill with less than 1/4 tank of fuel remaining or she may need to ride her bicycle to the gas station 3 times to fill a 2.5 gallon can and add to the tank with the OEM provided funnel required for the capless fill nozzle. LOL
She was on flat ground and it has gas. Her cca is 760 and they tried jumping it with a car with 600 cca. I always thought you need an equally powered battery and you let the rescue car run for a few minutes before trying to start the dead one. Am I wrong? Also don't know what guage of wire was on the jumpers.
My thought is...assuming the jumpers were enough and the rescue battery was enough and it still doesn't start that it's the starter. This is also assuming the battery is good.
She was on flat ground and it has gas. Her cca is 760 and they tried jumping it with a car with 600 cca. I always thought you need an equally powered battery and you let the rescue car run for a few minutes before trying to start the dead one. Am I wrong? Also don't know what guage of wire was on the jumpers.
My thought is...assuming the jumpers were enough and the rescue battery was enough and it still doesn't start that it's the starter. This is also assuming the battery is good.
Thanks for everyones assistance.
I just got these to have in the truck "just in case". All copper 4 gauge jumper cables. Pricey, but when you need them, you need them.
Plot thickens, I remember on the carfax seeing at 6,000 miles the battery/ charging system was inspected. Then nothing else but regular maintenance until 35k (around when the friend bought it.)
I forgot I hooked it up to forscan when they got back to town with it and there were a bunch of old stored codes. Not present at the time of request. Sorry for the bad photo, don't have time to type them all out. Seems like mostly lost communication with the PCM or BCM or IC and one specifically about battery voltage. Hopefully dig deeper later.
Well after poking around I isolated the single click to the starter. Tested the battery at 12.02v. Had her pick up some 4g jumper cables and it fired right up jumping it from my 5.0. Let it idle for 10+ minutes, battery tested at 14.22v drove it 10 minutes and the battery then read at 12.67 volts resting. Tried to test the load and nada. 1 click again. Battery OR starter is still my thoughts.
Interesting because they decided to get a new battery, put it in, let it sit for 10-12 hours and it's back to clicking just once at the starter. I thought a starter could sometimes be jumped? Through jumping the battery that is. Similar to hitting one with a hammer will sometimes knock it out of it's dead spot - enough power surge creates same effects? Just a theory.
Interesting because they decided to get a new battery, put it in, let it sit for 10-12 hours and it's back to clicking just once at the starter. I thought a starter could sometimes be jumped? Through jumping the battery that is. Similar to hitting one with a hammer will sometimes knock it out of it's dead spot - enough power surge creates same effects? Just a theory.
This is correct in that if you have a bad starter, you can "bump" it by trying to start it and it may catch and start eventually. A more powerful battery obviously has a better chance of spinning a starter going bad.
09-16-2020, 01:44 PM
