2016 weird traction control issue
Had truck since new it has 70,000 on it,the issue is the traction control will just tun off by itself and or the advance traction will come on. This happens intermittently. Did a search did not find this issue,i hit the traction control button it will go back on but some times i have to keep doing it. Anyone seen this ?
No codes, but i have also just noticed what sounds like a wheel bearing hub might be going bad. I can hear a slight buzz like what some tries sound like,if i turn right is goes away,and i do mean slight buzz. Put truck in the air, checked for any movement,none.
Sounds like your Traction Control Switch, or its wiring, is failing and momentarily grounding the circuit which changes traction control modes depending on how many times it makes ground.
From the WSM:
AdvanceTrac is controlled by the stability-traction control switch in the following manner:
From the WSM:
AdvanceTrac is controlled by the stability-traction control switch in the following manner:
- Momentarily pressing the switch disables only traction control, ESC and RSC remain enabled.
- Pressing the switch and holding it pressed for more than 5 seconds with vehicle speed under 56 km/h (35 mph) disables traction control and ESC, RSC remains enabled.
- l When vehicle speed exceeds 56 km/h (35 mph) after the switch was pressed and held for more than 5 seconds, traction control and ESC are enabled but with a higher intervention threshold. RSC remains enabled.
- Pressing the switch twice enables traction control and ESC both with a higher intervention threshold. RSC remains enabled.
- Pressing the switch after one or more features have been disabled enables all 3 features.
Drove little over 70 miles yesterday and had no issues with traction control,hate intermittent problems. The slight buzz sound coming from front still there though, gotta be one of the bearing hubs no pulling left or right and tires have maybe 1000 miles on them.
I think you've got two separate issues.
While driving along a straight section of road, engage 4x4. If the buzzing goes away, you've got an IWE rubbing teeth, likely due to a problem with the vacuum actuation system.
I concur with 52merc's assessment of the TC switch or wiring. Either that or a problem with the control module.
While driving along a straight section of road, engage 4x4. If the buzzing goes away, you've got an IWE rubbing teeth, likely due to a problem with the vacuum actuation system.
I concur with 52merc's assessment of the TC switch or wiring. Either that or a problem with the control module.
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I think you've got two separate issues.
While driving along a straight section of road, engage 4x4. If the buzzing goes away, you've got an IWE rubbing teeth, likely due to a problem with the vacuum actuation system.
I concur with 52merc's assessment of the TC switch or wiring. Either that or a problem with the control module.
While driving along a straight section of road, engage 4x4. If the buzzing goes away, you've got an IWE rubbing teeth, likely due to a problem with the vacuum actuation system.
I concur with 52merc's assessment of the TC switch or wiring. Either that or a problem with the control module.
Monitor and let us know how you make out.
The IWE has a flexible membrane. If you puncture or dislodge it, it cannot build full vacuum and will not fully disengage. If you can loan a vacuum tool, it's an easy check. Can also put a bit of tubing on one of the two nipples, cover the other, and see if you can suck air out. Put your tongue on the end of the hose after sucking hard, wait 10 seconds, then see if you can suck out more air. If not, it does not have a significant leak.
Go on, try it. You know you want to put something in your mouth and suck hard on it under the auspices of 'automotive repair'. This is why it's called 'self-diagnosis'.
Go on, try it. You know you want to put something in your mouth and suck hard on it under the auspices of 'automotive repair'. This is why it's called 'self-diagnosis'.







